"How- To" 2010-2012 Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Retrofit

[crash712us]

Metal, did you ever report back on what this upgrade did to improve your cars braking?

[themetalmaster]

Its posted at the top of the writeup. Under outcome.Thanks for reading it

Outcome:

On my stock 2011 Ford Taurus SHO the brakes started to engage after depressing the brake pedal about halfway. Being such a heavy (and expensive!) car, this can be quite nerve wracking.

After the retrofit, brakes engage with less than half an inch of pedal travel. The pedal is still somewhat soft, but that is just a characteristic of the car. The pedal feel is exactly what it feels like on the 2013 MY SHO. This is a great supporting mod for a big brake kit, but makes a huge difference with just the stock brakes.

[RealityCheck]

Finished the swap tonight.  Outcome is exactly as described by themetalmaster - the pedal engages much sooner and the pedal feels much firmer than the stock 2011 setup.  Unfortunately, the 2011 is still cursed with undersized brakes, so my next mod will probably be a TCE front brake kit and 2013 rear rotors/calipers.  During the master cylinder/brake booster update, I also noticed the vacuum manifold that feeds the brake booster is different.  Among other things, it uses a hard plastic tube along the fire wall instead of a rubber hose.  The entire setup is around $50, so I may give it a try.

[themetalmaster]

Great success! Your break lights operate normally as well?

[RealityCheck]

Great success! Your break lights operate normally as well?

Yes, brake lights are good. 

[EcoPowerParts]

I think I need to do this ASAP!

[Bosscav]

I think I need to do this ASAP!

Sorry to resurrect an old one but this is a pretty common problem with a LOT of 2010-2012 SHOs.

Mike, did you ever get around to doing the swap? I am going to attempt it once things warm up in the spring. I just want to make sure all of the components fit and last for years.

[FoMoCoSHO]

So I was studying this as I need to complete the swap on the Lincoln.

It appears the the PN for the booster may have changed.

For the MKS and SHO application, Rock Auto is showing the PN as BRB137

[ZSHO]

So I was studying this as I need to complete the swap on the Lincoln.

It appears the the PN for the booster may have changed.

For the MKS and SHO application, Rock Auto is showing the PN as BRB137

Correct FoMoCo! It looks like Ford Part No DG1Z-2005-B is replaced by DG1Z-2005-D- BRB127- BRB137-

Best of luck.  Z

Booster Assy - Brake
When Replacing This Component, 2L523 Has To Be Replaced

$94.81

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-booster-asy-brake_dg1z-2005-b.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=pd:,

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6514950&jsn=416https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6514950&jsn=416

[SHOdded]

Pads, rotors, calipers upgraded, with part numbers.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,299.msg152960.html#msg152960

[FZMAN]

Bringing back an old thread..
Owned my 2012 Ford Taurus SHO for a few years now and just heard about the 10-12 master cylinder and booster retrofit. I just installed parts from a 15 SHO and currently am having a vacuum leak around the master cylinder and brake booster connection. Is there a gasket that mates the two parts? Also after bench bleeding and bleeding all four calipers I'm still having a squishy pedal until about halfway down.
Any insight would be much appreciated.

[SHOdded]

Did you install new, oem parts or ...? 

there IS a seal between the MC and booster that if compromised will leak brake fluid into the booster, not sure about a vacuum leak tho.

did you bleed the calipers in sequence, with fluid topped off in the reservoir/cap open?  have you tried bleeding the abs yet?

[FZMAN]

I purchased a used oem booster and master cylinder off of a parts car. Originally, i was missing the gasket that went between the booster and master but i've since located one. It looks like i had some air in the ABS module because it several hours of bench bleeding and bleeding each caliper to firm up the pedal. Braking has definitely improved over the 10-12 setup.