MKS sub with pictures

[Scott4957]

Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.

[BiGMaC]

Any time I do work on my stereo I use a CD with polarity clicks to check and also one to evaluate phase cancellation. Easy peezy, even though an RTA makes the latter easier to fix.

[glock-coma]

Also the signal should come AFTER the factory amp in the trunk. Some people say that a completely flat signal is obtainable it you get the signal out of the head unit. I have not confirmed this either way. But Im pretty sure you loose all sync functions and volume control if you tap before the amp.

[Ryan02Stang]

Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!

[Scott4957]

Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!

Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.

[Ryan02Stang]

Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.

I have a ported box, that I was using in another car that I'm planning on using in my MKS.

I have a Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 12 inch sub, along with an LC2I 2-channel line out converter.  Amp is a Kenwood KAC-8105D mono amp.

So really all I have to do is get the power wire from the battery to the trunk, and figure out where to install the line out converter.  I've read a bunch of posts on here, and even looked around on my MKS...and honestly, it seems like a pain the the ass!

[sholxgt]

I had it easy with two cars I've owned.  Not as easy with others.

The Crown Vic Police cars have a power distribution block in the trunk.
The Oldsmobile Aurora's have the battery under the back seat.

I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.

[TX MKS-T]

Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.

Could have because after day 2 of probing wires I was pretty fustrated and threw in the towel. I did get a nice clean signal after the amp on 2 wires but lacked volume control from headunit. Also if it helps the power wire for the LC2i I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.

Yep nothing in the back that could be used for power on my 2010 so ran all the way up front. The frewall is pretty sealed so ended up even though I didnt want to drilling a small hole below the steering shaft and used a rubber groomet and ran wire through followed by sealing around it with silicone. The wire will poke out right behind the firewall heatshield and slightly below brake MC.

[Scott4957]

I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted. Its odd that you got a good signal after the amp but no volume control, I'm inclined to say you likely tapped the signal prior to the amp. Its pretty cut and dry, after the amp, the signal has to rise and fall with the volume knob and the LCi2 working properly has to see that. From my brief look at the amp it was not very clear what was inputs and what was outputs so I can see this getting confusing. As for why some of your taps got you nothing, that's hard to say. Its possible that you tapped a run to a tweeter and the bandpass is in the amp. This would mean the signals going down those wires where too high of a frequency and there was simply nothing in the range of the bandpass filter in the LCi2 to pass to the sub. This is why we need a wiring diagram for the THXII system. I know someone bought the one for the Sony system for 11 bucks, for that much I will just buy it if I can find it. I have a PM out to Kevin to see if he can get it for us but I have not heard back.

[sholxgt]

I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted.

Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.

[Scott4957]

Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.

I just started this yesterday and it should be a sticky now.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6330.msg98527.html#msg98527

[Scott4957]

I have everything mounted. I made a quick mounting plate for the amp and some concentric rings for the 12" Kappa to fit the 10" hole. I also found these wiring diagrams from a pre-2013 MKS THXII system, hoping these are similar. I made the mistake of not checking the sub wiring colors so I will have to pull the sub and reach up in the deck to pull it out and see if it matches these diagrams from the older system.

[sholxgt]

Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?

[Scott4957]

Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?

If I knew those diagrams where good for the 2013 I would pull from the rear door. I may start by pulling from the sub. I have downloaded a few free apps that will generate low bass frequencies 1hz-200+hz that I can test with to ensure the full range is being passed to this sub which starts at 23hz.

[sholxgt]

Another strange thought occurred to me...

I wonder if there's a way to disable the Active Noise Control?  Partially because I don't like the idea of the entire concept, but also because I'm wondering what happens if we change the speakers, tap certain lines, etc and leave it enabled. 

The brochure for the MKS says that the system will "channel acoustic adrenaline to you in the form of tuned engine bliss."

We don't have a sound symposium thing on the intake, so that leaves me guessing that it tries to make engine noises through the stereo?