2010 SHO - no AC drivers side

[04goat]

Hi all,

Thought I had low refrigerant, but after putting my system on full blast I realize it's just the driver side not getting any ac. Seems to be pulling Air from outside. 

I just unplugged the battery , hoping that would reset the blend door actuator. But no dice. I had the opposite issue with no passenger side heat and this resolved it immediately.

My question is before I go buying parts just because, is there a drivers side blend door?  Where is it located?  Also could it be a bad recirculation door?

I searched, but could only find the no passenger heat topic.  Which as I mentioned is the opposite of what I have going on.

 

[glock-coma]

Drivers side actuator is much harder to get to than the passenger side but it's still doable.
Do you hear any clicking when any adjustments are made? Does the ac come out any vents at all?

 

[SHOdded]

There are indeed 2 actuators, the procedure for the drivers side unit is attached:

Temperature Blend Door Actuator — LH

Item  Part Number  Description 
1  W701696  LH temperature blend door actuator screw (2 required) 
2  —  LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector (part of 14401) 
3  19E616  LH temperature blend door actuator 

Removal and Installation

NOTE: The LH temperature blend door actuator can be accessed from below the LH side of the instrument panel.

Remove the 2 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.
Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.
Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.

Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute.
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.

Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct LH temperature blend door operation.

 

[04goat]

So after thinking it was beyond the simple recharge. I left both terminals off for about an hour and a half. No difference.

Decided to try the recharge. Took a whole can, still not in the OK zone on the cheap-o gauge, but both sides are now blowing much colder than ever before.  So with low refrigerant one side would remain cool, and the other was ambient. Strange...

Lesson learned = charge before posting. Still puzzled how a charge affected half of the car and not the entire AC.

 

[SHOdded]

Def weird.  But as long as it's working, hey ...  :thumb:  I prefer to leave refrigerant charging issues to the pros ...

 

[ZSHO]

It could be that one of the "Lines"are clogged up.....probably be a good time to have an  a/c evacuation performed if the issue still persists and also have your cabin air filter changed if not done so already it might help a bit....hows your temp gauge? and best of luck to ya.  Z

 

[Blackhawk]

My 2011 just started doing the same thing.  I eventually get a bit of cold air on the driver side but it takes 10 mins and it still is not as cold as the passenger side.  I'll try throwing some refrigerant in tomorrow.  There is kinda like a weird pssh sound every 10-20 seconds, it's sound like it's from the dash but maybe it's my compressor cycling.

 

[KonaTheWhale]

Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

 

[04goat]

Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice. 

 

[Blackhawk]

I thought the seats had their own heating and cooling elements built in, maybe I mis-read that somewhere.

Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice.

 

[glock-coma]

I thought the seats had their own heating and cooling elements built in, maybe I mis-read that somewhere.

Wifes car(Ford Focus) had the same pshh sound every 10-20 seconds and was hardly blowing any cold air, got the a/c EVAC and recharge done and issue was fixed. Essentially there is seal somewhere in the system that is letting in moisture and letting out freon, so if the leak is small enough it may take years for that issue to arise again

The other added benefit of adding refrigerant was cooled seats.  I never thought they actually did anything until re-charging the system, now it's like sitting on a block of ice.

You are correct newer fords do not use the engine ac compressor for the seats.
It uses something called a peltier module or thermoelectric module.

http://www.marlow.com/resources/general-faq/6-how-do-thermoelectric-coolers-tecs-work.html

 

[Blackhawk]

I just dumped 2 cans in and it is significantly colder. I lost ac over the course off two weeks so there is probably a leak somewhere.  Anyone know if esp covers the ac system?

My 2011 just started doing the same thing.  I eventually get a bit of cold air on the driver side but it takes 10 mins and it still is not as cold as the passenger side.  I'll try throwing some refrigerant in tomorrow.  There is kinda like a weird pssh sound every 10-20 seconds, it's sound like it's from the dash but maybe it's my compressor cycling.

 

[SHOdded]

Might be out of date, but this is the comparison I use:
http://www.factoryplans.com/assets/cms/files/brochure_FordESPPlanOptions.pdf

Starting with the BaseCARE level:

• A/C Clutch
• A/C Clutch Bearings
• A/C Compressor
• A/C Compressor Clutch Switch
• A/C Compressor Head
• A/C Compressor Seals
• A/C Condenser
• A/C Evaporator
• A/C Fluid Coil
• A/C Pulley

PremiumCARE adds:
• A/C Accumulator
• A/C Actuator
• A/C Compressor Assembly
• A/C Control Head
• A/C Line Assembly

 

[L1gerZero]

Mine had the same issue, i noticed the drivers side was kinda cool but not really and the passenger seemed almost normal. Took it in and they said it was almost empty and replaced a leaking condenser. Fixed everything right up. Idk how they have it set up but its interesting that one side can go out before the other.

 

[SHOdded]

Yeah almost like it's computer logic behind it ...

 

[John Miller]

Late to the party ..... I had this happen on a Venza. Sounds completely illogical, but low coolant caused it to blow cold out of only one side. A recharge fixed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[L1gerZero]

Maybe it has to do with how close each side is to the condenser. More distance to travel = more time for the already not quite cold air to warm up. At least until ambient temps are down far enough.