Sorry no pictures, but I have had a clunking on the front drivers side of the car for a while now. I finally got tired of it and started poking around down there to see what was going on. I grabbed onto the end link and pushed and pulled, though I couldn't feel any play I saw that the rubber boot on the bottom knuckle was torn. I settled on this being the source of the noise. I ordered the $30 a piece Moog's over the $10 a piece OEM end links for no other reason than the fact that I could get them in 2 days and get this thing fixed.
First I have to say the Moog end links are substantial, there has to be twice the amount of metal in the Moog's over the OEM's. They are twice as thick which means they are much more stiff. I wasn't sure how this would affect the handling and ride of the car but I have to say I am impressed. They also have grease fittings and the ball joints are fully enclosed in metal where the OEM's have a bunch of plastic crap on the ends.
Once I got the drivers side link off I could feel some play in it so I knew I was on the right track. The install is pretty easy but can be a bit time consuming due to the location of the nut on the bottom of the end links where they attach to the sway bar. With my brother-in-laws help and all the right tools it was about 1.5 hours for both sides while taking turns wrenching and drinking a beer. Nuts are 21mm, torque spec's are 95ftlbs. If you have an impact gun you can get the top nuts on and off pretty quick. You will need to use a open ended wrench for the bottom which takes a while. You'll need an 18mm wrench to hold the Mooks while putting the 21mm nut back on. On the OEM's you will need a 10mm socket to hold the end of the bolt while you use a 21mm wrench to take off the nut. I was not able to fit a torque wrench on the bottom nut so I just tightened it as much as I could with a box end wrench and the limited space and leverage I had to work with.
Hows it drive? The noise is gone, thank god! I will update after I have a chance to hit the clover leafs to and from work, but it feels good and it seems that the nose doesn't dip/roll as much as on the stock links. This makes sense because the stock links are so thin you can pull on them like a piano string so they are flexing before they flex the sway bar. The Moog's are much stiffer, there is very little if any flex in them and all that energy is getting transferred into the sway bar quickly. There is no changed in ride quality, this does not affect the rate of the spring or shock so there should be no change. I have the adjustable shocks "MKS" and when they are on the softest ride I feel like there is far less roll when moving through turns quickly. Looking forward to the drive to and from work tomorrow in sport mode with the dampeners at their stiffest setting.
Scott
First I have to say the Moog end links are substantial, there has to be twice the amount of metal in the Moog's over the OEM's. They are twice as thick which means they are much more stiff. I wasn't sure how this would affect the handling and ride of the car but I have to say I am impressed. They also have grease fittings and the ball joints are fully enclosed in metal where the OEM's have a bunch of plastic crap on the ends.
Once I got the drivers side link off I could feel some play in it so I knew I was on the right track. The install is pretty easy but can be a bit time consuming due to the location of the nut on the bottom of the end links where they attach to the sway bar. With my brother-in-laws help and all the right tools it was about 1.5 hours for both sides while taking turns wrenching and drinking a beer. Nuts are 21mm, torque spec's are 95ftlbs. If you have an impact gun you can get the top nuts on and off pretty quick. You will need to use a open ended wrench for the bottom which takes a while. You'll need an 18mm wrench to hold the Mooks while putting the 21mm nut back on. On the OEM's you will need a 10mm socket to hold the end of the bolt while you use a 21mm wrench to take off the nut. I was not able to fit a torque wrench on the bottom nut so I just tightened it as much as I could with a box end wrench and the limited space and leverage I had to work with.
Hows it drive? The noise is gone, thank god! I will update after I have a chance to hit the clover leafs to and from work, but it feels good and it seems that the nose doesn't dip/roll as much as on the stock links. This makes sense because the stock links are so thin you can pull on them like a piano string so they are flexing before they flex the sway bar. The Moog's are much stiffer, there is very little if any flex in them and all that energy is getting transferred into the sway bar quickly. There is no changed in ride quality, this does not affect the rate of the spring or shock so there should be no change. I have the adjustable shocks "MKS" and when they are on the softest ride I feel like there is far less roll when moving through turns quickly. Looking forward to the drive to and from work tomorrow in sport mode with the dampeners at their stiffest setting.
Scott
