Correcting Dealer Paint Damage

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BiGMaC

New member
I posted this link in another post.  Apologies for duplicates, but I put it in the wrong category.  The link below is a step-by-step with pics before and after of the correction and coating of paint on my 6 week old (new purchase) Tuxedo Black 2013 SHO.  The dealer did some paint repair at my request... but it's a car dealer, and the damage dealer's do on a new car is actually incredible.  There was water-spotting under the dealer applied paint sealer (sealing is common in AZ at dealerships due to sun).  I thought it was interesting and might have some useful points for members in this category.  The link is:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?60364-Phoenix-Detail-2013-SHO-Taurus-Water-spots-sanding-marks-CQuartz-Finest


I'd be interested in similar experiences and outcomes.
 
Actually it's fairly easy with the right products and a little practice.  I have found that using Adam's Polishes can correct most problems without a lot of work...well, actually it's a bit of work, but the secret is having a good machine to help.  A Porter-Cable DA will do a good job at a reasonable price, or a Flex will do a great job, but does cost more.
 
Don't cry, but you already have them.  What you saw was a new car... look at your paint from a low angle or with an LED flashlight. My guy at Windows and Wheels will do it for about $900 even if he travels to customer's home... 2 step polish (all scratches gone!) and then 2 layers of coating on all paint, wheels, and hard plastic.  This included polishing and coating the headlight and tail light plastic. I also had him use a product for the windows... better than rain-X and also lasts 2 years for another $45. People come from all over the country... their results are winning car shows. General consensus seems to be that Opticoat is a little harder, but CQuart looks wetter and deeper with more reflectivity.  The CQuart also does not attract dust... a real problem on a black ride.

When you wash one like mine with a foam cannon you blow-dry the vehicle with an electric leaf blower due to the extremely hydrophobic nature of these coatings...... Literally a "no touch wash and dry"  They taught me the technique.. my SHO takes about 40 minutes.

You can do the CQuart or Opticoat yourself , but the professional product is superior and consumers can't buy them, and you get a 2 year warranty if a CarPro certified detailer does it.  Polishing is not that difficult, but without the electronic equipment to measure thickness of paint and clear coat separately you could cause enough damage to result in early paint/clear coat failure.  Wills and Dana worked together for two and a half days just on my car.... Cheap in the long run!
 
Only thing I will add, is that it is pretty hard to damage the finish using a Dual Action Machine Polisher like the Porter Cable, and will yield superior results to hand polishing, even for a beginner.
 
What mjhpadi said!  :thumb:  If you decide to do it yourself, just don't dwell or use a real aggressive polish until you're comfortable with it.  :nono:
 
4DRHTRD said:
I need to fix the my front air dam then have Wills cover and do my paint on the V. :)
Click to expand...

Look'n forward to some more pics there 4DR, as well as hearing more stories about your fun with the V.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 
bpd1151 said:
4DRHTRD said:
I need to fix the my front air dam then have Wills cover and do my paint on the V. :)
Click to expand...

Look'n forward to some more pics there 4DR, as well as hearing more stories about your fun with the V.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Already had 2 motorcycles (Harleys) try and race me, they lost BADLY. A bunch of parts showed up today, we'll be tuning on E85 next week, should be 600HP off nitrous and 700ish with. :)
 
Awesome!  :thumb:  looking forward to seeing it... I talked with Wills and Dana about your new V when I was by Monday this week...

BTW, in the parts you got, did the wings and drag chute come in yet?  ;D
 
Yeah I see some minor scratches already but definitely not $900 worth just yet.  You'd car looks great though.  I will be needing some tips I can use for mine. 
 
That's the thing with paint... and I guess all mods... If you don't perceive a problem no need to do it.  :thumb:

I'd recommend getting a good wax that lasts and will fill those small scratches.  The first key to shine and gloss is achieving a flat surface on the paint. The scratches scatter light and that's what causes the difference.  Adams products are great.  Just get the bird bombs off quickly as they eat wax and etch paint.  You could also try sealers or a hybrid wax/sealer like CG Hybrid V7. Remember that when you wash... it's the soap and water that should remove dirt, etc.... not elbow grease.  :nono:

I don't mean to sound like a salesman.  It's certainly not for everyone.  I spoke about the price/detailer because I have paid 150% of WaW's price to get the same result. My standard is that the paint surface should look like new auto glass.

If you ever decide to do it find a detailer that will treat your vehicle as if it were theirs.

Geez... This turned out like a rant... sorry.  :toilet_claw:  LOL

 
BigMac is dead on, don't forget the more damage you allow to happen before taking action the more work will be needed and the more it will cost to correct.
The sealer he has on his ride is to prevent future marring of the paint.
Before that sealer can be worth it's weight though you have to do a correction to the paint.
The sealer doesn't correct it protects.

If you don't care other than just having the ride clean then by all means don't spend the dough, but if you want a finish that looks as awesome as BigMacs, get it done sooner rather then later, IMO.
 
Thanks TOE... I'm a bit embarrassed :yes: ...and far from an expert. It's why I paid a pro to get a pro job...
 
Yeah, hopefully you can get away with a 1-step polishing (with a finishing polish) with a Dual Action polisher (like the Porter Cable or Griot's) at this stage, then seal the paint with something like OptiCoat/CQuartz Finest/Four Star Sealant etc.  Or if you are a DIY'er, Collinite 845 or 915 to get you through the winter; not as shiny as sealants, but a bit more affordable.  Seal the wheels too, OR use Plastidip to keep 'em protected.  Wheels off would allow a more thorough job, if you are so inclined.  FlyBy30 or Aquapel or some such product to seal the windshield the windshield.  OC/CQF on remaining glass.  mjhpadi and others can speak to what Adams products would work, they have a pretty solid lineup too.

Basically, wash, clay, polish, seal.
 
You guys are spot on.  I can't begin to tell you how much better the finished result will be if you do a paint correction before waxing or polishing.  I get constant comments about how good my car looks, but it really is a lot of work.  I really like to do the clay bar, paint correction (which may take 2 or 3 steps..and a couple of repeats of each step), then I like doing Revive (which Adam says is a Polish, but I think of it more as a cleaner) then use a sealant, and then finally wax.  It is time consuming, but the final product really is worth the work.  Then regularly I will use Quick Detailer or Waterless Wash to help keep the finish looking good, and I really believe it extends the life of the wax...however I normally will wax every 4-6 weeks.
 
BiGMaC said:
Thanks TOE... I'm a bit embarrassed :yes: ...and far from an expert. It's why I paid a pro to get a pro job...
Click to expand...
No reason to be embarrassed, i'm certainly not a pro. I have been doing my own work for roughly 6 years but that does not make me a pro by any means.
It's more the tools you use then anything when just a diy guy. The right tools make life so much easier.
Of course the real Pros get products we can't and that of course will show up in the final product, your ride being a prime example of what top grade products and a pro can do to make a car show worthy. :alkashi:
 
Resurrecting an old topic I started. It's not about the CQuart finest... Although at 2 1/2 years ther's still no scratches on the car and I blow dry it as the waster runoff is 5 degrees.... (I do use a foam cannon and pressure washer for a no touch wash

It about correcting paint on your car.... My car was brand new... Sat on the dealer lot almost a year... During which time washing damaged the paint.... Here's a working link to Wills Amstutz's ..(my detail guy).. own write-up of what he did at his detail shop.... In 30 hours with 2 people working to correct my paint/plastic and apply a so far semipermanent sealer... Haven't waxed ever, and decontaminate the paint with Iron-X Snofoam twice a year.  Anyway.... Regardless of whether you hire a pro or DIY... Look close and correct the paint!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?60364-Phoenix-Detail-2013-SHO-Taurus-Water-spots-sanding-marks-CQuartz-Finest

 
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