Crap In=Crap Out: Processor Needed

S

SRT82ECOBOOST

New member
Just reached the end of what I will call phase 1 of my audio upgrade path to include:
-Boston Acoustics Pro50SE front components
-Boston Acoustics G215-4 15" subwoofer in sealed enclosure
-(2) Boston Acoustics GT-2200 amplifier
    -2 x200W to components
    -1x700W to subwoofer
-Audiocontrol LC2i line output converter
I spent some time last night adjusting gains and crossovers with the end result being less than what I was expecting over stock. There is some additional volume, clarity and bass available from the system, but I would say it is  much less than audiophile grade sound. Just to listen to it at any appreciable volume I need to use the OEM Sony equalizer to remove pretty much all of the midrange and treble.
In the end it just boils down to the fact that I need a processor in the chain to clean the nasty OEM signal I am working with. This system should sound better as the components are some fairly expensive pieces. I am leaning towards the JL Audio Cleansweep for ease of install, low pricing and fairly great results from what I have read for reviews. Does anyone have experience with this piece of equipment?
 
Yes....I used this in an older install .

It does exactlly what it claims to do.

Fine piece of equipment ... you wont be dissapointed ! !


MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IN THE SYSTEM  TO INCLUDE THE OEM HEAD UNIT AND  CLEANSWEEP HAVE A TRUE GROUND ... THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL ! !
 
So I dug into this a little further with research on how to properly set up the components in my system and boy did it pay off. The level matching of the line out converter to the amplifier was not even close. So after matching the LOC to the input signal from the OEM head unit the signal chain was greatly improved. I seriously think I doubled not only the output of the system, but also the sound quality has shot through the roof. I am very pleased with the results and the only thing now to adjust is getting back some bass from the subwoofer as the volume rises and the head unit tries to roll off the bass output.
 
SRT82ECOBOOST said:
So I dug into this a little further with research on how to properly set up the components in my system and boy did it pay off. The level matching of the line out converter to the amplifier was not even close. So after matching the LOC to the input signal from the OEM head unit the signal chain was greatly improved. I seriously think I doubled not only the output of the system, but also the sound quality has shot through the roof. I am very pleased with the results and the only thing now to adjust is getting back some bass from the subwoofer as the volume rises and the head unit tries to roll off the bass output.
Click to expand...

Good move!  I'm following your build with interest.  Your approach is about what i was thinking.  It appears you may have found a reasonable way around the CleanSweep… I really want to hear if you get enough bass response to suit you.  Adjusting I am willing to do, but I want the hardware as simple as possible.
 
I need to go out after lunch and tweak the Accubass on the Audiocontrol LC2i. It is a specific function designed to combat bass roll-off from factory systems. I also just ordered the ACR-1 remote bass nob that plugs into the LC2i and allows you to additonally attenuate the bass from the front seat. Now just to find the most discrete place to mount it.
 
SRT82ECOBOOST said:
I need to go out after lunch and tweak the Accubass on the Audiocontrol LC2i. It is a specific function designed to combat bass roll-off from factory systems. I also just ordered the ACR-1 remote bass nob that plugs into the LC2i and allows you to additonally attenuate the bass from the front seat. Now just to find the most discrete place to mount it.
Click to expand...

I always used to hide that kind of thing….. Alot of work-> put it in where the auto park and traction control are in the console.  Minimal work (but still hidden) -> somewhere under the dash that you can reach while driving.  I personally don't like to drill a new dash.
 
SRT8.............definitely let us know how the bass output comes out!!  Bass is all I want out of my system when I have the time / money!!! :music:
 
MJESHO said:
WOW.............now that's a steal!!!
Click to expand...
Boston Acoustics is out of the car audio as a manufacturer, but you can still find their products at rock bottom prices. Some online vendors will even offer an extended warranty on the products for a little more dough which I picked up with my gear. I got about $2,100 in BA amps and speakers for $800.
 
The G215-44 15" (dual voice coil) is $65 on amazon and a box with 2 of the in it is < $200.  The DVC ipedence spike is at 18Hz... 20 Hz deeper than the SVC (G215-4 15")...... but with 2" electrical excursion and 15" diameter you'll be moving a lot of air with either one of these!
 
We really need someone to a scope or rta on the stock amp and see when the roll offs start happening.  Just before is probably where line levels should be set and considered the max volume of the system.
 
Right on dalum!
It's what I do to all the systems i've fooled with for the last 35 years. I have the RTA... bring your ride over! I also have the test tone and polarity check CDs..... Even done right phase cancellation can require polarity to be reversed on a speaker to hear a given frequency due to speaker orientation and the irregular soundbox of a car interior. After that tune to what you like with your ears.

BTW... get your ride in the Feb ROTM!  Give kbeck some competition!
 
No heated car washes in your area?  There's one not too far from me, have to see if it's still open.
 
dalum said:
We really need someone to a scope or rta on the stock amp and see when the roll offs start happening.  Just before is probably where line levels should be set and considered the max volume of the system.
Click to expand...

The MS8 sorta does this, kinda.  During calibration checks, with a white noise sample disc track playing, it measures THD/clipping points.  The 2010 Sony setup clipped early, right about 2/3rds in.  The 2013 Non-Sony played to 100% without tripping the MS8 up at all.  I still backed it down to 90% before doing calibration though.
 
So the signal clips at 2/3 of the volume setting on the OEM head unit?
So should I set max system volume at 1/2 to get the cleanest signal with a little extra headroom.
 
BiGMaC said:
Lanson said:
The MS8 sorta does this, kinda.  During calibration checks, with a white noise sample disc track playing, it measures THD/clipping points.  The 2010 Sony setup clipped early, right about 2/3rds in.  The 2013 Non-Sony played to 100% without tripping the MS8 up at all.  I still backed it down to 90% before doing calibration though.
Click to expand...

I think Lanson told us clipping on the ms8 did not occur in his 2013… he just backed off 10% on the master volume to leave headroom.
Click to expand...
I have the Sony system.
 
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