Exhaust cut outs

f8tlSHO

New member
Has anyone ever looked into using an electronic exhaust to divert around the 3rd cat? I was just wondering if it would be possible to get a little more sound but still keep the factory mufflers in place. I don’t get under the car much, so maybe there is no room.


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Looks like 2 cutouts would be necessary to get around that mid muffler and back to the pipe on the back side. Didn’t realize there were 2 pipes entering and exiting the mid muffler.

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I had a boost activated cutout built into an xpipe installed on my car. Came out awesome ... I use a hobb switch and mac solenoid to control when it starts to open. It's all made out of 304 stainless steel.  Fits between the downpipes and factory resonator. System opens up at 8psi and fully open at 11psi.
 
nickstewartroc said:
With those boost activated ones, are those instant open? My electric one I have on my ST takes like 5 seconds to fully open or close

It starts to open as soon as the boost hits 8psi and fully opens at 11psi. There's no hesitation... If I want it to open sooner I simply adjust the hobb switch.
 
How exactly does this work? The hobb switch lets you adjust the boost? What is the solenoid for? Is this setup cheaper than the electric cutout? Just the valve and stuff, not the custom work you had done.


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f8tlSHO said:
How exactly does this work? The hobb switch lets you adjust the boost? What is the solenoid for? Is this setup cheaper than the electric cutout? Just the valve and stuff, not the custom work you had done.


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I tapped into a boost line coming off my intake and used that to feed the hobb switch. The hobb switch has a allen screw on the top that is used to determine the amount boost needed for the cutout to open. The further you screw it in the less boost is needed to send a signal to the mac solenoid to allow the boost go to the valve that opens the cutout. The system is expensive. That I can remember I spent around $1800
 
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