Hooking up a subwoofer to Sony system

[KonaTheWhale]

Have a subwoofer and amp laying around and decided it's time for some more bass in the SHO. I'm using a Kicker zx400.1 amp and need to know what would be the best LOC and how exactly to connect it all to the LOC. I've looked around and the Audiocontrol Lc2i seems like it would work great, believe glock-coma hooked subwoofers up with the Audiocontrol LOC. Hooked systems up before but never with a LOC so just want to make sure I get the best sound and don't mess anything up. Pictures or a diagram of the stock amp/instructions would be great!

 

[glock-coma]

I have lot of pics of the audio wiring on my tablet at home. I can post pics later tonight.
A few years ago I was using an audio control lc8i then switched to a dqxs for the eq capabilities. Now I'm running a jbl ms-8.
If you just want to run a sub the lc2i will work great. 
You'll need a 12v power source for it and ground.
Tap the rear door speakers for the full range signal, then adjust the sub crossover on your amp.
If you use the factory sub wiring you'll be limited the the factory sub frequency.

 

[KonaTheWhale]

That would be awesome! I am a visual learner haha assume you just used a fuse from the fuse panel for 12v power. Is the amp for the rear door speakers in the trunk?

 

[glock-coma]

Since you'll be needing a constant 12v power source for your amp anyway you can connect the lc2i to your amps power source, just be sure to fuse the smaller wire accordingly. No need to run a separate line from the fuse jb.

The factory Sony amp is in the trunk in the drivers side.
Here's the connector pin out.

I pulled this from the fusion forum but it matches the Taurus also.

 

[djxfactor]

I tapped my rear doors for the high output signal as well.  Worked great on my little Kicker Hideaway, and there's plenty of range of frequency from them to tune your sub in to your liking.

 

[Scott4957]

I used the LC2i as well, I tapped the stock sub high level outputs with no issue. I figured the range of the stock sub outputs on the amp would be fine. I assume its a low pass so unless you higher frequency bass that the amp/cutoff doesn't pass "usually its the lower frequencies the stocker cant hit that you want" then I would think the sub outputs would work fine.

Scott

 

[Macgyver]

Awesome. Thanks for the info in this thread. I have extra subs and amps laying around.......

 

[polskifacet]

If you want to control the sub per music type, you have to have a bass knob or tap the preamp outs coming from the hear unit and use a knob to control input level to your amp.

 

[djxfactor]

If you want to control the sub per music type, you have to have a bass knob or tap the preamp outs coming from the hear unit and use a knob to control input level to your amp.

^ What Polski said. ^  I have a bass control knob mounted under my dash for quick access, it makes a massive difference for anyone that listens to a wide range of music.  Just make sure you have the knob turned down almost all the way when you initially tune your system, then turn it up as you test with different genres to find all your sweet spots.  I have mine dialed in just the way I like it, and I have lots of headroom with the adjustment knob.

Another FYI, is if you happen to tap the rear doors like I did, make SURE you get an *adjustable* Line Output Converter.  I initially used a static-set LOC (it was sitting on a shelf in my garage as a spare, so free is the best cost!) and I just didn't have near enough power from my new sub setup (no more Kicker Hideaway, now I'm running a full-fledged sub in the spare tire well!).  I scratched my head as to why the system sounded so weak, then I remembered I had used a non-adjustable LOC, and figured that was my culprit.  I invested a whopping $8 in a PAC Adjustable LOC from Amazon (shipped free via Prime), wired it in place of my non-adjustable unit, tuned in (and turned up) the gains on the PAC, and it changed everything, as I suspected it would.  Now I shake the hairs on my head and my rearview mirrors are useless when it's cranked up!!

For reference, here's the LOC I picked up (you can't really go wrong with PAC audio products):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W

 

[Lexingtonian]

Late to the party addition, but I thought I'd toss my 2 cents in. One doesn't need a LOC if your amp accepts high impedance (high level) inputs. If I was simply going to add an Amp or powered sub to a factory system and do nothing else to it, I'd select an amp that accepts high level inputs, also has a remote bass control (i.e. Bass Knob) then tee right off the sub outputs to the high level inputs of the amp. It's simple and clean and one less component to integrate.

Lex -

 

[Macgyver]

I agree with the High level input but some amps do a crappy job and a LOC is the best option. The Audio Control device is the best option thats for sure but as stated above. A variable output LOC will do wonders to a sub amp combo.

Did you need to vent to the cabin or do the sub frequencies make it thru the rear seat fairly clean ? I am coming from a 2000 Buick Regal GS beater that needed no pass thru for the sub sound.