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RagingPenguin

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With a similar gremlin? Maybe?


I'm pretty confident my noise isn't from my engine as it throws no lights


But it's back... My ratchet noise.
Only under WOT. Today was warm
Very hard 2-1 shift in M mode. It slams hard.
Under WOT only when during a shift, most readily heard on drivers side ear.

Then noticed when we got back to town when I went around two 90* corners the drivers side had a bit of hop/skip/ bump to it.

I'm pretty close (95%) to unloading this thing.

I'm not scared to get a look at the half shaft but I'm having my doubts about it being worth effort to pull it apart and inspect.

What would you guys do?
I shelved the problem for a bit as my wife drives it primarily and it behaves fine if you drive normally but now I can focus some attention on it again.

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Check your drive axles and CVJs/hubs. SHO has a TSB for checking the half shafts as some apparently were not installed properly and can come apart all together.... That's posted in the TSBs section.
Any noise when the car is not moving and the wheel is turned?
 
Rotated them around a bit. However it's on a hill in park.

Will pop tires off and get a good look tomorrow.

Only other thing someone pointed out was the bushing on drive shaft was pretty worn out with a bit of play in it.

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When was the last time trans/PTU/RDU fluids were changed out?  Slamming hard into gear is usually a sign that either a) shift pressures are too high, or b) changing/flushing the fluids is needed.

Check the tie rod ends and swaybar end links, could be the source of the hop/skip/bump issue.  Haven't heard of axle issues (other than rusted hubs) on the 2010-12, but could be an issue.  If you have vibration through the floorboards (or thump/clunk in gears other than Park/Neutral), the driveshaft could be suspect.  If you have a GoPro you can mount, video-ing driveshaft behavior would be a good idea.

 
SHOdded said:
When was the last time trans/PTU/RDU fluids were changed out?  Slamming hard into gear is usually a sign that either a) shift pressures are too high, or b) changing/flushing the fluids is needed.

Check the tie rod ends and swaybar end links, could be the source of the hop/skip/bump issue.  Haven't heard of axle issues (other than rusted hubs) on the 2010-12, but could be an issue.  If you have vibration through the floorboards (or thump/clunk in gears other than Park/Neutral), the driveshaft could be suspect.  If you have a GoPro you can mount, video-ing driveshaft behavior would be a good idea.
Click to expand...
It only slams in manual mode on the Gear 2 to 1 downshift when using paddle shifters. Everything else is fine so far other than the ratchet noise at 6700 rpm.
Transmission has recently been serviced with AMSoil and they topped up the PTU.

PTU fluid I can tackle next week.


One thing I have noticed is that the car gets very little wheel spin with traction control off still manages a 0 to 60 in 5.1 to 5.2 seconds




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Looks like your car is pretty well sorted, your tune is an LME tune, right? 

Normally, a ratcheting sound comes from behind the glovebox when one of the blend door actuator starts acting up.  6700 rpm is pretty much the rev limit, wonder if something in the drivetrain gets "uncoupled" for protection or something like that.  Maybe even motor mount flexing.  Can you localize the sound?  Do you or your mechanic have access to Chassis Ears or a similar diagnostic tool?
 
We localized it to transmission area on (drivers side)
If we placed our improvised listening device (cell phone... Gorilla tape) anywhere else, for example passenger fender or front of car noise was barely audible. When we placed it on drivers side it was readily heard. I'll also attempt attaching it directly to the transmission to eliminate it being from there.



I'm tempted to rent a chassis ear from someone just to ensure its merely a noise and not something grenading. I'm not to upset if it needs a transmission but if I can avoid it I will.

Car is LME 4. Upon entering tune noise completely vanished for a long time. Then returned a little bit and has quieted down with the PTU being topped up and fresh transmission fluid.

The only thing that has me somewhat concerned is I noticed the return of the sound, then the 2-1 down shift bang returned while in manual mode. Plus the thumping ( a physical lurch more than a sound) around corners. I'll have to go out and drive it around the block and see if it was a one time thing or not.
Tonight's plan is to jack it up and check all the CVs and see if rear end is misbehaving or not.
Possibly attach phone to transmission to eliminate or confirm that.

It's safe to assume previous owner drove this thing to death.
It also had front end repainted at some point. Never noticed that before buying.

Kinda hate myself for how much I love this car. Not quite ready to give up.
But then again even if I spend a few thousand fixing it, its still cheaper than a newer one. Heck just aftermarket I'd lose 1600$.

With that said. Can't thank this forum enough for the help. No better place on earth for SHO assistance.

I'm also looking to reputable shops. So far Davenport motorsports and Lightspeed innovations are maybes.



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As far as good shops, we need recommendations for the Central Alberta (Canada) area :)  I have not really heard of hospitable dealers in Canada (very surprising to me), so I hope someone can help out here!

I'd not give up the SHO, not after all you've put into it getting it right.  Unless it becomes necessary (a need rather than a want). :D

You've got me concerned about the CV joint/axle now, but hope you can figure out the cause tomorrow.  Going around corners ... we've had instances of the car reacting badly when launched from a stop with heavy throttle & turning at the same time (BiGMaC, I think).  Have pinned it on the PCM/torque management saving itself in that case.  Check the suspension (strut, strut mount, bearing) also.  Maybe the strut is leaking or the bearing is shot.

Also, there is a TSB for low speed start from stop & bump:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.msg22843.html#msg22843

The resolution for that is a valve body modification.

Is the sound anything like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yuHG54siWY
 
Interesting view on what can cause a ratcheting noise

Customer: replied 6 years ago.

just wanted to let you know that the problem that everyone thought i was having with my transmission was not my transmission at all. i took my vehicle to the local dealer and they did the extensive check they wanted to do but could not find anything wrong with the electronic control system, so they gave me another transmission which i installed and it did the exact samething. i called them and they said they could not exchange it again. so i desided to take it back out and sign up for the auto trans a class at our comunity collage and try it myself. so i started by draining the transfer case like always, but something different came this time, a white spot in the oil, then another, at first i thought they were an air bubble in the oil, when it was done draining i looked in thd bucket. there were little chunks of white plastic. so i opened the transfer case and found the little plastic inserts that are on the end of the shift fork were missing their slots had become enlarged. i kept going so i could get to the gear that engages hi and low range. the teeth on that slider were worn away on the hi range side of the slider and also down in the planitary drive where they engage. So when i would decel they would push apart causing the ratcheting noise and they would reengage when i would apply throtle.
Click to expand...

CV = Constant Velocity joint
http://www.samarins.com/glossary/cv_joint.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint
 
Correct, they found it to be a CV joint issue, but on the driveshaft.  Apparently the noise was bouncing around making it seem like it was coming from the front.

Front Drive Halfshafts
The halfshafts consist of the following components:

  • Inner CV joints
  • Outer CV joints
  • Interconnecting shafts
The halfshafts are splined on the outboard stub shaft to drive the wheel hubs. They are retained in the wheel hubs by special wheel hub nuts which also control the wheel bearing preload. The LH halfshaft is splined on the inboard stub shaft and is retained in the differential side gear in the transaxle by a circlip. The circlips must be installed new whenever they are removed. The RH halfshaft is retained in the transaxle differential side gear by bolts that go through the intermediate shaft support bearing. The intermediate shaft also goes through the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) on All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles. The outer seal of the PTU must be installed new whenever the RH halfshaft is removed.

Halfshaft Joint

The front drive halfshaft CV joints consist of the following components:

  • CV joint boot clamps
  • Convoluted CV joint boots
  • Tripod joint housings
  • Ball and cage housings
  • Retainer circlips
  • Special CV high-temperature grease

The CV joint mates the interconnecting shaft with the stub shaft. The joint allows for smooth rotation of the interconnecting shaft and the stub shafts. They also adjust for length variances and angle requirements as the vehicle goes through jounce and rebound.

The halfshaft joints are not repairable and are serviced as assemblies only.

Halfshaft Handling

Handle all halfshaft components carefully during removal and installation and during various component disassembly and assembly procedures.

  • Never pick up or hold the halfshaft only by the inboard or outboard CV joint.
  • Do not overangle the CV joints.
  • Damage will occur to an assembled inboard CV joint if it is overplunged outward from the joint housing.
  • Never use a hammer to remove or install the halfshafts from the front hub.
  • Never use the halfshaft assembly as a lever to position other components. Always support the free end of the halfshaft.
  • Do not allow the boots to contact sharp edges or hot exhaust components.
  • Handle the halfshaft only by the interconnecting shaft to avoid pull-apart and potential damage to the CV joints.
  • Excessive pulling force on the interconnecting shaft between joints of the halfshaft will result in internal joint damage. Axial loads used in assisting removal must be applied through the inboard joint housing only.
  • Do not drop assembled halfshafts. The impact will cut the boots from the inside without evidence of external damage.
  • Do not remove the outer CV joint by pulling on the interconnecting shaft.
  • Inspect all machined surfaces and splines for damage.
  • Do not allow the ball joint stud to contact the CV joint boot when disconnecting the lower arm.
 
Other than visual inspection it was suggested to get car off the ground, grab tires at 6 and 12 and check for movement for CV.
Long pry bar underneath tire to check for movement for ball joint and then physically grab toe rods and give them a wiggle to check for play.
Anything else I can do?
I'm not against checking splines in hub side.

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Other than full removal of the halfshaft from the trans and checking splines on the trans side, nope.  I really would like to see the sound isolated though first before any disassembly.
 
SHOdded said:
Other than full removal of the halfshaft from the trans and checking splines on the trans side, nope.  I really would like to see the sound isolated though first before any disassembly.
Click to expand...
Ahhh jeeze.

Ok fair enough. Well I'll try my phone thing again and see. If it's coming from there I'll move forward on that once I can figure exact location

Its certainly a driveline issue and very prominent in drivers side both sound and physically so at least I've a starting point.

I've seen a few home made chassis ears but it maybe cheaper to rent or maybe ask my mechanic nicely.


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RagingPenguin said:
SHOdded said:
Other than full removal of the halfshaft from the trans and checking splines on the trans side, nope.  I really would like to see the sound isolated though first before any disassembly.
Click to expand...
Ahhh jeeze.

Ok fair enough. Well I'll try my phone thing again and see. If it's coming from there I'll move forward on that once I can figure exact location

Its certainly a driveline issue and very prominent in drivers side both sound and physically so at least I've a starting point.

I've seen a few home made chassis ears but it maybe cheaper to rent or maybe ask my mechanic nicely.


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Click to expand...
Did a bit of pricing. Worst case is 1000ish in parts to redo front end without hubs. But need to verify if it's the problem or not. Soooooo
I'll let you guys know!

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Jeep video had a bad CV on front drive shaft

Still have a light oil film with a bit of collection in areas. Intercooler has very little. Oil residue or something worth checking? Once she's on back stands I'll check turbos to make sure. Last time they were clean so not concerned.
Would a catch can help clean that up?

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