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Adam

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Well, I just got out of my 41,000 mile 2009.5 Pontiac G8 GTX that I bought new and stepped into a new SHO.  I like it.  Totally different feel than the G8.  Looking at making the car "fast" low 12s high 11s.

Looks like making those numbers is not easy to do.  My G8 was a mid 10s car on street tires and pump gas.

So far in the 3 weeks I have owned her, I have the APS turbo upgrade, Meth injection, 3 Bar map, LMS tune.  I see the CAI/Downpipe/and exhaust don't do much over pushing out a little more sound.  So what am I missing?

Thinking about going and swapping out and doing a new Garrett turbo  setup.  Do they make good hard pipes?

Anyway.  I will give updates.  I have the info to do a write up so far on LED lights from Drive Bright, I made matte black RS fender stripes, Lamin-x hood, headlight, trunk... clear film protector, G2 USA exact match caliper  paint kit for the UH Tuxedo Black Metallic, Rear window roof spoiler, LED switchback lights, and a few other goodies.  Once I get the minimum amount of posts in here, I will start doing some how-to things for you guys if you want to try them out on your own.
 
Welcome aboard the E.B.P.F partner,please post some pics of the new ride and to answer your question related to performance there are a few things to take into perspective like having access to 93 octane,Altitude,(elevation)also would make sure that your tuned for methanol,and personally sounds like you need a good set of PPE Down pipes from www.ecopowerparts,he also carries the hardpipes as you mentioned,best of luck with the new ride.  Z
 
Welcome Adam!! Sounds like your on the rack track.
Any time slips yet?
That list of mods should put you deep into the low 12's

The security questions will stop soon, I believe it's after 5 posts.
It's to prevent spam bots and thwart off other site security risks.
 
It will be great if you would enlighten us more about the APS turbo upgrade on your new SHO, due tell.  Z
 
I'd install some down pipes for sure, let those turbos breath and produce power sooner.

Sounds like the making of a record breaking SHO.  Can't wait to see what you do with her!

I had a 2006 GTO and love my SHO much more. 
 
ZSHO said:
It will be great if you would enlighten us more about the APS turbo upgrade on your new SHO, due tell.  Z

Same notion as the ATP except is 2 mm larger trim all the way around over the ATP and $400 less at a local shop.  Using the stock core.  They laughed and said new ones don't show up as nice as the ones they took off the car.  I want to say the ATP was $2500 and APS was 2100.  Should allow for max boost for the setup.  Though spool up will take a smidge longer. 

Do they make anything to bullet proof the trans?  I was looking online for things like a Stall converter as well, or gearing swap?  Not trying to go crazy with the car, just want to have fun with it.  Warranty is already out the window
 
This may also sound stupid, or may be common knowledge, but I am running 23 degrees cooler according to my Aeroforce gauge after just removing the beauty cover and running without it on top of the engine with all that sound proofing holding heat in.  Just a basic, but I doubt enough heat is produced to cause any harm to the paint, since its not enough heat to cause harm to a piece of plastic.

Again, it may already be a basic 'How To' keep your car running cooler, then again maybe not.  Anything I can do to help out on here, let me know.
 
The trans, given regular fluid changes with quality fluid, is pretty bulletproof.  The PTU needs much more of that love to stay in primo condition.  The more you thrash it, the more regularly you should R&R the PTU fluid.  The RDU, having more fluid capacity and less demand overall, rarely has a problem, but can happen.

Good point on the engine cover.  It is oft removed, esp at track and during summer, to keep the bay cooler.  Most of the heat is kind of concentrated in a line across the rear of the hood, as evidenced by snow & ice melt :)  First time though I have heard of an actual number being put to the effect :thumb: 

Another mod, usually for track only, is to remove the hood weatherstrip at the firewall to allow another avenue for heat to escape. 

For even more venting, adding vents to the hood works very well.
 
Circle D made a higher stall converter for a prior 2010 owner, who has since parted ways with the platform and.....

It didn't do jack diddly do for him.

Other than cause him to go .6 slower in the 1/4.

Even then, modified tuning allowed him to gain .3 back, but suffice to say, based on that outcome, Circle D never made anymore.

There's nothing else currently available tranny wise, but I did hear grumblings of someone working on something as far as hardening a portion of the internals, but haven't heard results of those efforts yet.



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bpd1151 said:
Circle D made a higher stall converter for a prior 2010 owner, who has since parted ways with the platform and.....

It didn't do jack diddly do for him.

Other than cause him to go .6 slower in the 1/4.

Even then, modified tuning allowed him to gain .3 back, but suffice to say, based on that outcome, Circle D never made anymore.

There's nothing else currently available tranny wise, but I did hear grumblings of someone working on something as far as hardening a portion of the internals, but haven't heard results of those efforts yet.



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I have that converter sitting in my garage....

Welcome btw, pretty easy to get fast, ATP turbos, down pipes, and either race gas or E85 and custom fuel system. :)
 
Circle D did the 3600 Stall for my car.  It lost 38HP at the fly, HOWEVER. it gained .1 in the 60' and shaved off .28 on the 1/4 mile bringing it down to a 10.33 on 285 street slicks.  Not sure what a true drag tire would have done.  It held the 781 wheel horse power just fine.  I know some people gripe about Chris the owner at circle D but I beat up on mine and had no issues.

May I ask where all the powertrain loss comes from?  I mean its not uncommon to see 12-18% loss.  It appears though the car is not totally broken in yet, but I am at a 23-24% loss.  That is HUGE.  I mean it has a loss of roughly 1/4 of its power by the time it hits the wheels.  The car must be front wheel biased as well.  If I jump on it off the line, the front tires spin, the rear gets some power and chirp then the car catches and takes off.  I can't seem to find a way to turn off the 'nanny mode' either.  Stability control and traction control kick on even when I go through the toggle menu to turn it off on the left side of the steering wheel buttons.  Can it be turned off or have my LMS tune wipe it out?
 
Adam....

Circle D does make great product, which is why that owner chose to go with them.

The gains you report however do not translate to the SHO platform unfortunately. The stock converter used in the SHO, thus far, has proven pretty stout.

The drivetrain loss you are experiencing in your SHO is typical across the board, no matter the model year. Yes it is HUGE.

The power split is approx 70/30.

There was a member named Jason who hails from WI. that was able to program off/out all the nannies using IDS, but not sure if he still is.

LMS won't do that as far as I am aware.

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66 Galaxie said:
Didn't see any Ford applications listed on APS website, are your' s prototype?

I assumed not.  The local shop said they had the best bigger stronger faster rebuild to the ATP, using APS upgrades.  Did not do that work on the car.  Fairly~ novice about the TC systems.  Plus the G8 I had, had room to crawl under the hood and take a nap.  This engine is so shoe horned in place there are not many gaps big enough to stick your hand into. 

I believe they had to yank the engine to get to do the work.  Or said it was the quickest way to do the work.  Most of the rest I can help answer questions as I did the work, but that I cannot take credit for.
 
bpd1151 said:
Adam....

The drivetrain loss you are experiencing in your SHO is typical across the board, no matter the model year. Yes it is HUGE.

The power split is approx 70/30.

There was a member named Jason who hails from WI. that was able to program off/out all the nannies using IDS, but not sure if he still is.

I don't really understand the option being given to turn traction off when it really will not/does not do that.  Go figure lol.

When I noticed the power train loss I was like oh damn, what did I do.  So that is good to know.  My Zo6 Lingenfelter Carbon edition Vette has 11% loss.  My old G8 was 14%, The old CTS-V Wagon was 16%, and then I get in this and its right about 24% I knew it must have been something I did hahaha.  So thanks for the insight, it is really good to know.  Right now, my 3 gauges come to the conciseness that I am at a 12.41-12.42 I guess a downpipe might get me closer to a 12.3 having it move air more rapidly.  That time with a crappy 1.5 60' Not that it is my Zo6 or TA or any other ride, but the Z does the 60' in .9 the way it sits, with over one full g force.  So anyway it is a sigh of relief to know that is a common number on the loss side of things.

Here was a cam/exhaust/ported throttle body run.  Stock was 13.2 and with $1100 into the car it was an 11 second car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChSJPAoJDcw
 
Keeping the drivetrain fluids fresh will help minimize losses.  The more the power the SHO develops, and the more you put it to the ground, the shorter the intervals should be. Do not expect Motorcraft brand fluids to be your best friend.  They are good, but definitely not the best.

That G8 was hauling it!  Did you do the work yourself, though, getting everything installed for $1,100 is a darned good package :)
 
How much boost are you seeing,are you monitoring any levels,any codes set?? I was curious who installed the methanol kit?  Z
 
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