Searching for stock BOV o-ring replacements

Wardog692

New member
With my car in the shop currently, they mentioned the orange o-rings in my BOVs are leaking/damaged. I've tried searching on RockAuto as well as Tasca and can't seem to find exactly what I need without buying the entire BOV assembly. Are these just a universal part that I could buy anywhere if I knew the size? Anyone have any experience?
 
AFAIK there is no replacement Diaphragm.o-ring for the BOV .
It might be warranted to purchase the whole BOV Assembly which is roughly 77.00. which plays an important role and certainly don't want it to leak again,best of luck to ya.  Z
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z9u465a/2011-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/intercooler-scat/?part_name=valve
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May be worth getting an assortment of O-rings and finding one that fits, if both BOV are leaking (thats $150 to replace the two) or maybe time for an upgrade to hot pipes with a TiAL - if you need an excuse.
 
derfdog15 said:
May be worth getting an assortment of O-rings and finding one that fits, if both BOV are leaking (thats $150 to replace the two) or maybe time for an upgrade to hot pipes with a TiAL - if you need an excuse.
While this is a great excuse for that, I am just fresh out of college and not rolling in dough just yet that I can drop $800+ on a hot pipes setup. Plus I don't know what that'll do to my warranty (or what's left of it after I get it out of the shop...). Also I don't think that's something I could do myself (just a year ago I knew next to nothing about cars, so I've come a long way!), and I struggle to find a performance oriented shop in NC that would do it for me for a reasonable price.

Then again, I am prone to peer pressure...
 
Wardog692 said:
derfdog15 said:
May be worth getting an assortment of O-rings and finding one that fits, if both BOV are leaking (thats $150 to replace the two) or maybe time for an upgrade to hot pipes with a TiAL - if you need an excuse.
While this is a great excuse for that, I am just fresh out of college and not rolling in dough just yet that I can drop $800+ on a hot pipes setup. Plus I don't know what that'll do to my warranty (or what's left of it after I get it out of the shop...). Also I don't think that's something I could do myself (just a year ago I knew next to nothing about cars, so I've come a long way!), and I struggle to find a performance oriented shop in NC that would do it for me for a reasonable price.

Then again, I am prone to peer pressure...

Well there is a set of em for sale on the forums for $400 so thats a bit easier to swollow. IDK how the TiAL would affect warranty, actual pipes shouldnt affect anything since they remove a point of failure, other than the fact that you tinkered. And its a pretty simple job, could be done in a driveway/garage, on ramps or jackstands. There are a few areas that are a bit hard to reach (rear turbo, and front turbo is a bit of a pain) but the rest is pretty simple. There are a few how to's on the forum.

But to utilize it properly you need a tune to remove any codes for removing OE BOVs, or to leave the OE BOVs electrically connected.

For your case, probably easier to find ~$10 worth of O-rings (at most) and replace them yourself.
 
derfdog15 said:
Wardog692 said:
derfdog15 said:
May be worth getting an assortment of O-rings and finding one that fits, if both BOV are leaking (thats $150 to replace the two) or maybe time for an upgrade to hot pipes with a TiAL - if you need an excuse.
While this is a great excuse for that, I am just fresh out of college and not rolling in dough just yet that I can drop $800+ on a hot pipes setup. Plus I don't know what that'll do to my warranty (or what's left of it after I get it out of the shop...). Also I don't think that's something I could do myself (just a year ago I knew next to nothing about cars, so I've come a long way!), and I struggle to find a performance oriented shop in NC that would do it for me for a reasonable price.

Then again, I am prone to peer pressure...

Well there is a set of em for sale on the forums for $400 so thats a bit easier to swollow. IDK how the TiAL would affect warranty, actual pipes shouldnt affect anything since they remove a point of failure, other than the fact that you tinkered. And its a pretty simple job, could be done in a driveway/garage, on ramps or jackstands. There are a few areas that are a bit hard to reach (rear turbo, and front turbo is a bit of a pain) but the rest is pretty simple. There are a few how to's on the forum.

But to utilize it properly you need a tune to remove any codes for removing OE BOVs, or to leave the OE BOVs electrically connected.

For your case, probably easier to find ~$10 worth of O-rings (at most) and replace them yourself.
And that $400 set is very tempting, trust me! I do have an SCTX4, but haven't tuned yet, so it's not out of the question.

I do think for now I'll try a universal set, and in reality, a slightly leaky BOV isn't really a major worry IMO (it shouldn't be leaking anything anyways, or just a tiny bit of oil).

In other news, has anyone put some sort of filter on their BOVs when VTA to catch all the residual oil that does get blown out occasionally? I'm trying to keep my engine bay relatively clean, but both front and rear are spraying a fine oil mist over everything.
 
Does anyone know the size of the orange o-rings inside the BOVs? I still don't have my car back to measure myself, but i was wanting to try and order just the o-rings online from a universal kit, but I don't know thickness/interior diameter. I really want to avoid paying $150 for 2 new BOV's when mine work just fine, minus a deteriorated o-ring that costs a few pennies.
 
I orange O-ring is a very thin elastic type (plunger) and IMHO have not seen this type of fragile silicone which ended up breaking on me.LOL,
I would say the orange O-ring is about 1/2 wide but as long as the BOV itself. I hope this helps any. Z
I found the green outside o-ring to be loose and very brittle.
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Ironically, I had this happen to me during the 2015 National SHO Convention.

Went up to GLD in what was anticipated to be the record setting run, but the car fell flat on its' face.

No power like the 1st 80' or so from the starting line, then all of a sudden BAM! Car took off for the remainder of the run.

Since there were no known failures of the OEM BOV at that time, I posted this image after finding out the cause was the damaged diaphragm:



To the best of my knowledge, this is NOT a serviceable/repairable part.

I simply replaced with a new one.

It wasn't a hard repair, and the replacement part was surprisingly not that expensive.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
ZSHO said:
I orange O-ring is a very thin elastic type (plunger) and IMHO have not seen this type of fragile silicone which ended up breaking on me.LOL,
I would say the orange O-ring is about 1/2 wide but as long as the BOV itself. I hope this helps any. Z
I found the green outside o-ring to be loose and very brittle.
97hgbx6h.jpg
lsJCF5Nh.jpg
NIqpR3zh.jpg
kTx9tuph.jpg
eHvVRUTh.jpg

Got enough MAP sensors there Z?

I did a quick search and it looks like all the aftermarket companies use a standard style O-ring. You may be able to find used BOVs from someone that upgraded, otherwise it looks like you'll need to buy replacement BOVs or go ahead and upgrade to EPP pipes with an aftermarket BOV.
 
Thanks for all the info y'all. Like I said, I haven't been able to look at it myself as my car is still in the shop (going on 2 weeks now...) and I assumed the orange part was just a standard o-ring (I think that's what's broken) but I'll take a look at it when I get the car back. If it's just the green o-ring, that would be ideal, otherwise it looks like I'll be ordering two new BOVs, as I don't have the skill/time/money to do the hot-pipes option (although they do look awesome!).
 
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