Spark plugs

avidmotion

New member
I have a 2013 +pp, GH tune n intercooler,  stock thermo, stock airbox drop in dry panel filter. I have sp-534 plugs at stock gap. Plugs have 35,000 miles. I was getting ready to change them and wanted to see the best plug for my car. I live in nj. I looked on rock auto. They have copper, platinum,  iridium and now for 1 buck more then iridium these new plugs.......
Ruthenium HX
NGK Spark Plugs is introducing the latest technology in high ignitability spark plugs to the automotive aftermarket: NGK Ruthenium HX. Today's efficient engine designs create more power while using less fuel and this has shortened the life of traditional Iridium and Platinum spark plugs. In response, NGK's patented Ruthenium technology is used for maximum durability and performance in newer engines where efficiency is demanded.

Features & Benefits:
DFE (double fine electrode) and PSPE (projected square platinum electrode) tip designs. DFE maximizes ignitability while reducing emissions for low heat (non-turbo) engines, and PSPE provides the best ignitability and service life for high heat (turbo and supercharged) engines.
Superior oxidation resistance and enhanced blistering/anti-peeling to provide the most optimal durability at high temperatures in various driving conditions.
Advanced high-ignitability technology that provides more complete fuel burn than other precious metal spark plugs, resulting in quicker throttle response, smoother idle, and better cold starts.
Anyone heard of this metal or these plugs?
Are the sp-580 the new number for the sp-534 still the go to plug. What would my gap be for my po particular combo be?
 
Interesting find.

Here's something on working with the metals.

https://www.mgsrefining.com/blog/2015/10/01/Ruthenium-vs-Iridium-in-Platinum-Alloys

And here's something on the scientific properties.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/metals.comparenature.com/en/ruthenium-vs-iridium/comparison-61-33-0/amp

It SOINDS like the gap of the ruthenium plugs won't increase over time as much as the iridium plugs will.  So that might be the gain from these plugs. However, if you change your plugs every 20 or 30, 000 miles, the plug gap increase might not be an issue for you.


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Look at this video of a tuned SHO with SP534's and watch preignition.  Now watch how it isnt an issue with SP542's.  This video is the reason why I will be ditching my SP534 that only have 3k miles on them to the SP542. 

https://youtu.be/Zqz8AdJMxTY
 
There are different levels at which different spark plugs are called for.  So, dont throw away the old plugs until you see quantifiable benefits with the new ones.
 
SHOdded said:
There are different levels at which different spark plugs are called for.  So, dont throw away the old plugs until you see quantifiable benefits with the new ones.

Good call
 
Sp534 I believe...or I actually thought this to be an upgrade per LMS' site.  They list it as an upgraded plug.  And SP542 is a step colder than SP534.  So I don't believe either are stock...not 100% on that
 
Sp534 is stock, replacing the sp528 that had issues with cracked insulators.  Sp542s are "upgrades".
 
802SHO said:
Sp534 I believe...or I actually thought this to be an upgrade per LMS' site.  They list it as an upgraded plug.  And SP542 is a step colder than SP534.  So I don't believe either are stock...not 100% on that

Well I'll be getting out the spark plug socket again . Brad was saying my symptoms after flashing the E30 tune were abnormal and something doesn't seem right . That may be symptoms of LSPI , I still time to time feel slight hesitation on light take off around town etc
 
SP534's sold as an upgrade?  For nothing other than a precision gap?  Hence the confusion on whether they are stock or not.
 
I do not see the word "upgrade" in the pic above.  Because plugs from factory arent always matched evenly, becaused boosted applications are more sensitive to plug gap, and because gapping them properly is a challenge with the tiny center electrodes, LME provides the service to eliminate the headache for the customer.
 
True but they are a performance shop selling upgrades not stock replacement parts.  For the beginner such as myself I as well as many others would find it suggestive to say the very least of a upgraded spark plug when it is only a stock plug that has been precision gapped.  For a beginner as well gapping a plug is entry level or 1 wrench in difficulty...so to buy stock plugs and pay nearly double bc they are "precision gapped" seems ridiculous and are probably out of gap during shipping for all we know.  Just my opinion.  I find it to be misleading and all the times I boasted about my performance pack I bought....intake, thermostat, plugs and tune....if I only knew I was boasting about replacing it stock plugs with stock plugs...
 
18SHO said:
Which plugs are the stock plugs ? 534s? Or 542? I forget . I put stock plugs in at .028
The only Spark Plugs recommended Gapped @ 0.028 are the NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 IIRC! The rest line of the NGK Re-branded Motorcrafts are @ 0.030 Gap size. Z
 
ZSHO said:
18SHO said:
Which plugs are the stock plugs ? 534s? Or 542? I forget . I put stock plugs in at .028
The only Spark Plugs recommended Gapped @ 0.028 are the NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 IIRC! The rest line of the NGK Re-branded Motorcrafts are @ 0.030 Gap size. Z

Most tuners are recommending even with the 534s and 542s to run .028 to .30 I'm going to run .028 with a little wiggle room for the gap to expand slightly over time , very common
 
How long should I wait until I swap plugs from a drive about 2 hours? I usually wait until cars cold but if I had time today has anyone done a swap while motors still a little warm but not hot?
 
You can change them anytime even with the motor blazing hot....it depends on how much heat you can take....
 
SM105K said:
You can change them anytime even with the motor blazing hot....it depends on how much heat you can take....

Oh good , wasn't sure if with the aluminum heads there was a necessity for being cold only. I bet hood open for an hour with coils off will make it bearable 
 
18SHO said:
SM105K said:
You can change them anytime even with the motor blazing hot....it depends on how much heat you can take....

Oh good , wasn't sure if with the aluminum heads there was a necessity for being cold only. I bet hood open for an hour with coils off will make it bearable

If that was the case, nitrous guys wouldn't be pulling plugs directly after runs.  Just make sure you use anti sieze on the threads, and I always use dielectric grease as well.
 
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