Thermostat

BlueSHO

New member
Did a search and maybe missed it but is there a how to on installing a thermostat? Looks pretty straight forward but you never know. How much coolant will I lose when I pop the radiator hose off or/and remove the thermostat housing? Thanks and glad I found this place. Jeff
 
JeffsSport said:
Did a search and maybe missed it but is there a how to on installing a thermostat? Looks pretty straight forward but you never know. How much coolant will I lose when I pop the radiator hose off or/and remove the thermostat housing? Thanks and glad I found this place. Jeff

It's pretty straight forward. I lost about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of coolant only cuz it's in an odd location.

Remove your air box to gain access to the t-stat housing.

Then remove the t-stat housing / cover, and pull out the old t-stat, drop in the new one.

Reassemble. Top off any necessary lost coolant.

Done.
 
Just wanted to get it out there that when I did this and the tstat housing was hot to touch, I lost almost a half gallon of coolant. Once everything was buttoned back up I ran the car with the reservoir lid off for a while with the heater on high. Had to top off the coolant a few times throughout the "burping"  process.

2011 ISM SHO; Airaid Intake


 
Thermostat went in last evening. Lost about 3 cup of coolant but managed to recover about half of that and back in.

Then I put heater on max for a while with engine running. Took some time and throotle before heat came on board. Did à test drive and everything was fine.

Until this morning! No heat at all in the cabin... Did I lost too much coolant or is it because I am not tuned yet for the 170F thermostat?

Edit: I forgot to left the reservoir cap off when running cabin heater yesterday evening... May it be the problem? Should I restart the burping process?
 
I had no problems with mine. Did lose about a quart of fluid and topped it off and heat works fine.

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The key to losing as little coolant as possible is to have a container positioned under T-stat housing and loosen slowly and when container gets close to full hand tighten bolts and then repeat until coolant above the t-stat housing is drained out.  Patience is your friend.
 
EcoBrick Bob said:
The key to losing as little coolant as possible is to have a container positioned under T-stat housing and loosen slowly and when container gets close to full hand tighten bolts and then repeat until coolant above the t-stat housing is drained out.  Patience is your friend.

Thats what I did. Problem was getting the container out lol! I lost some coolant because containers I had available were a bit too big. So I spill some :(

Let's burp it again!
 
I must not have patience. I lost about a half gallon.  The way I burped mine was after new t stat install, fill the reservoir back to cold full line. Leave the cap off the reservoir and let it run 10 minutes with full heat. Then let it cool down fill it again to cold fill line. Put cap back on and drive it for about 10 minutes. Let cool down and check it again. Repeat as necessary until level stays. Mine took about 3 top offs.
 
So is there any true performance benefit for the 170 stat.  I've got a 170 stat in my GTO, and a colder stat in my L, but have been told they do little or nothing for performance.  I know that Livernois recommends the stat replacement, but I've yet to change the one in my SHO while running any of their tunes.  I might change it soon anyway, as I'm approaching 70k miles.
 
ivofe said:
I must not have patience. I lost about a half gallon.  The way I burped mine was after new t stat install, fill the reservoir back to cold full line. Leave the cap off the reservoir and let it run 10 minutes with full heat. Then let it cool down fill it again to cold fill line. Put cap back on and drive it for about 10 minutes. Let cool down and check it again. Repeat as necessary until level stays. Mine took about 3 top offs.

Probably what happen to me. I topped it twice and it seems to be still à bit low. I guess I underestimated the coolant lost.
 
I did mine last weekend, you can add me to the at-least-a-half-gallon-lost club :o I drilled a .030 hole in the stat to make the burping a non issue.  You'll notice looking at the factory stat that it is already predrilled with a small plug like bleeder in it.  What I thought was odd is that the temp gauge reads EXACTLY the same. Didn't budge down even a litle :hmmm:
 
Fast SHO said:
If you live in an area that gets really hot in the summer I would say it is worth it.  Otherwise, not so much.

Live between Baton Rouge and New Orleans, so it gets pretty hot and humid.  I'll probably change it.
 
The AZ desert can hit 120o in Phx and stay in the upper 90's all night. It would help here, but under hood temps rise quickly so lack of "cold air" becomes a power eater
 
QuickSilver said:
What I thought was odd is that the temp gauge reads EXACTLY the same. Didn't budge down even a litle :hmmm:

You need to be tune to take advantage of the lower temp thermostat. Now my temp gauge barely go up before stabilizing.
 
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