2014 pp driveline in 2010 sho questions.

[ZSHO]

I wholeheartedly agree with Manu and simply put a cap on it and be done with it. Z 

 

[Spyder3000gtvr4]

Got the car all together. Put the key in glove box cranked nothing. Cracked second time it sputtered now all it’s doing is cranking. I don’t think the fuel pump is on and the security light is flashing. Any advise... remote is dead only works in glove box. Tried locking the car putting code in the door so don’t know if it’s a security issue or if the fuel pump needs to be reset since the battery was out for 6 months.

 

[SHOdded]

If it were a loss of PATS security communication, it would not even crank, so that is not it.  Key fob battery or vehicle battery or both could be suspect.  Could be low or bad fuel from sitting.  Recheck and firmly seat all fuses and relays in the underhood fusebox.  Make sure the connectors at the PCM and whatever else you disconnected are good.  Can you get codes from the PCM?  I would think if it cranks, it can set codes.

 

[Spyder3000gtvr4]

Battery is a ur old and was on the trickle charger during the engine transplant, key fob is dead but battery is a yr old and only wants to crank when it’s in the key holder. Gas is 93 6 months old topped it off 10 miles prior to engine going. I’ll have to get a code reader to see if I can get anything. From what I recall if the hoods open and you’re standing at the engine bay I thought I’d hear the hissing from the fuel system. I don’t hear anything at all now and even after trying to crank the engine 6-7 times no smell at all even at the exhaust tip. I feel like the fuel pump isn’t going. That’s why I thought it had to do with the security since the red light was blinking in the car

 

[SHOdded]

According to this, one of the antennas might have failed, requiring the fob insertion into the center console slot.  Assuming the key fob battery is new.  As to why it cranks but not starts, let's see about the codes.

Normal Operation
During each vehicle start sequence, when the start/stop switch is pressed, the Remote Function Actuator (RFA) activates all 3 passive start antennas, which send out a low frequency signal. If an Intelligent Access (IA) key is within range of an passive start antenna, the low frequency signal activates the IA key. When the IA key is activated it sends a high frequency signal to the Remote Functions Receiver (RFR) module. The RFR module communicates with the RFA module. If the RFA module determines that a programmed IA key is in the vehicle, it interacts with the PCM to start the vehicle.

If the vehicle has a failure of any passive start antenna, the battery in the IA key, or the RFR module, the vehicle can experience a Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) no-start. However, in the event of one of these failures, the IA key can be placed in the backup slot (located in the center console) to allow the vehicle to start. The backup transceiver is located next to the backup slot and activates an IA key if it is placed in the slot. The backup transceiver is hardwired to the RFA module and when it is activated, sends out a low frequency signal. If a programmed IA key is in the backup slot when the backup transceiver is activated, it activates the IA key and the identification code is sent back to the RFA module through the backup transceiver.

Once the RFA module determines that a programmed IA key is inside the vehicle and receives a request to start the engine, it turns the ignition ON and communicates with the PCM over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN). Once the ignition mode is turned ON, both the RFA module and PCM check the parameters against what has been programmed into them. If there is a programmed IA key inside the vehicle and the parameters are correct, then the RFA module and PCM enable the starter relay and fuel injectors.

PATS disables the vehicle from starting if there is:

• a damaged IA key.
• a damaged IA passive start antenna (of the 3 used for starting the vehicle).
• an unprogrammed IA key.
• a non-encoded (non- IA ) key (a conventional PATS key or one that does not have any electronics).

damaged wiring.
[*]a damaged backup transceiver (only if the IA key is in the backup transceiver slot).
[*]a dead battery in the IA key (backup transceiver slot may be used to start the vehicle in this case).
[*]a damaged RFR module.
[*]a damaged RFA module.
[*]a damaged PCM.
[/list]

 

[tarmstrong]

Any chance the fuel pump safety switch has been tripped?

 

[ZSHO]

Do you hear a (click sound) coming from the engine bay after having it in accessory mode then ignition OFF ? Z

 

[Spyder3000gtvr4]

That’s what I’m trying to figure out. I looked in the manual it’s very vague on how to reset it. Googled it... nothing. Tried the search on here but didn’t seem to find it (probably using the search wrong)
The only other thing I could possibly think of is that I put the flywheel in the wrong spot which I highly doubt but even if I did I’d still smell gas which I am not. Not hearing the hissing for it to prime.

As far as a clicking I’ll go check but I don’t recall. A buzzing sound near the trans and the fpr is making a very faith buzzing

 

[Spyder3000gtvr4]

Haven’t had time to look at the car again will try this weekend. Will listen for clicking sound as mentioned. I saw the article about the recall for the fuel pump module not sure it that applies to my car. Was thinking of trying starter fluid to see if it’s the fuel pump any suggestions on testing the pump?