2014 SHO livernois 3 bar tune/tstat/downpipes

kyle04

New member
Went and got the SHO dyno'ed tonight.

Lix5MWE.jpg


After talking with the guy, found out they have only had one other SHO in their so he was showing me his numbers vs mine. He wasn't sure who tunehe came in with but he had a tune and downpipes and nothing else, when he came in he was high 350's low 360's. After some adjusting with it a little and he left with just shy of consistently 400awhp. My mid range was a a decent bit higher but i think that was on the tune that he came in with.

One thing i was curious about is that he was asking me if their was anyway to keep it in 3rd when doing the pull from 1500 rpms. We tried S and D using the paddles but everytime you WOT it downshifts unless you're above 3500rpm, he asked because the owner of the previous SHO said he messed around with something in the shift patterns and his dyno run started at 1500 in 3rd gear and never downshifted.

I also asked why there were loops where its dropping torq/hp with those 10rpm increments. He said he could feel those surges while doing the pull and that he sees that even worse on the VW's.

Their was also a puff of black smoke out of the exhaust after each run when he lets off the throttle, im guessing its running rich but im not sure if thats normal or not. All in all its still not to bad.
 
How big was the "puff" the dragon was belching?  DI engines do tend to deposit soot on the exhaust tips as you know.  If you aren't in the habit of driving it hard occasionally, could be the dyno was blowing out the "cobwebs".

Anyway, pull codes, see if there's anything set, including for misfires.  Check spark plugs and COP boots, if they are fine, might be an injector or two involved.  Preliminary thoughts :)
 
SHOdded said:
How big was the "puff" the dragon was belching?  DI engines do tend to deposit soot on the exhaust tips as you know.  If you aren't in the habit of driving it hard occasionally, could be the dyno was blowing out the "cobwebs".

Anyway, pull codes, see if there's anything set, including for misfires.  Check spark plugs and COP boots, if they are fine, might be an injector or two involved.  Preliminary thoughts :)

I think it's a decent size but i dont have anything to really compare it to. It definitely gets driven hard on occasion, i had it at the strip just this past saturday so i dont think it would be that.

I'll have to check codes later on. I did check the gap on the front three right when i tuned it and they were all dead on .30 but i didnt get to check the back three till a few weeks ago when i was at a friends house and decided to pull those, i checked gap with his tool and the back three were all around .34-.36 so i regapped them, im curious if maybe his tool was off and not the back three plugs. If his tool was off and i ended up putting to tight of a gap on the plugs would it cause the smoke? Either way i have 6 new plugs coming in today so that should take care of that if it is the issue. What are COP boots?

Here is a video i got of it last night.

! No longer available
 
ajpturbo said:
Where are you from kyle?

Just south of Pittsburgh, PA

CroR1 said:
Was the tuner able to adjust your tune? Or you just did a dyno  pull?

He was not as he said he is not familier with tuner the ecoboost platform. The guy that came in with the SHO had his own software(i'm guessing SCT or somthing possibly) and that he was just helping him read the dyno and making suggestions for him to change. Seemed to turn out good by gained about 40awhp, at what type of reliability cost though is the question.
 
COP = Coil on Plug.  What used to be just plain old spark plug wires now have coils embedded in them.  Since you didn't mention it, I assume the boots were oilfree?  Was there any buildup on the electrodes (sooty/blackish)?  If his gapping tool was off, it's possible the gaps are too narrow, causing a rich condition.  But that does look like TOO much smoke for just a spark plug issue.  It's like riding behind an old diesel-powered car!
 
SHOdded said:
COP = Coil on Plug.  What used to be just plain old spark plug wires now have coils embedded in them.  Since you didn't mention it, I assume the boots were oilfree?  Was there any buildup on the electrodes (sooty/blackish)?  If his gapping tool was off, it's possible the gaps are too narrow, causing a rich condition.  But that does look like TOO much smoke for just a spark plug issue.  It's like riding behind an old diesel-powered car!

I didnt look to closely at the boots but if there was a good bit of oil i would have noticed but ill be able to check for sure this evening. I should have mentioned i did put downpipes on a few weeks ago, if that makes any difference.

Was a 3rd gear pull correct for this car and also i have seen it mentioned elsewhere that starting higher in the RPM range shows a lower TQ number, is that correct as well?
 
STD correction with smoothing at 0?

I'd call the dyno shop and have them e-mail you a graph you can actually reference with other dynos.  SAE correction and smoothing at 4-5.  Should help get rid of the "heart beat"  monitor effect.
 
Vortech347 said:
STD correction with smoothing at 0?

I'd call the dyno shop and have them e-mail you a graph you can actually reference with other dynos.  SAE correction and smoothing at 4-5.  Should help get rid of the "heart beat"  monitor effect.

He did show me the smooth at max 5 and it didnt have the loops anymore but it still had spikes similar to a a heart rate monitor. Unfortunately i didnt get a print out of that one.
 
It sounds like you have non-catted DP on your SHO ,how many miles on her??. Check to see if there are any codes set.  Z
 
So thats a yes?...i rented the dyno. I was going to post some stuff but havent really had time..thats awsome that that u went there becuase i was curious of a couple of my runs...but your pulls look clean and consistent

Ive known denis at prl he's a good dude
 
ajpturbo said:
So thats a yes?...i rented the dyno. I was going to post some stuff but havent really had time..thats awsome that that u went there becuase i was curious of a couple of my runs...but your pulls look clean and consistent

Ive known denis at prl he's a good dude

Yep, Dennis is who i talked to. Once he asked what i had and i told him, he asked if i knew you and if you referred me. Unfortunately i don't know anyone else with a SHO and that I found PRL just by searching around, and i have seen their GTR run at the track a few times.

Do you know if 3rd gear what the right gear to do the pulls in, its a non PP by the way. Also was there a way to get it to not downshift when in third at WOT or have you changed something that i wouldn't be able to do.
 
3rd gear is what most people use, tho I believe 4th is actually 1:1 for the SHO.  I found this post, which if true, means that on the Dynojet, the gear that is 1:1 should be used for measurements.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?s=b43e47171dcc674f947a8746f9146c12&p=21629411&postcount=3

the reason for the dyno in the 1:1 gear ratio is due to the Dynojet. Dynojet mathematically creates a horsepower number based on mass (which is the known weight of the rollers) and accleration (how fast the car is accelerating the known weight).

F=ma

From force (F), we can calculate horsepower.

Dyno the car in 2nd gear, and acceleration (a) goes way up, causing force (F) to go way up.

So by dynoing the car in the gear closest to the 1:1 gear ratio, we eliminate any acceleration advantage or disadvantage caused by the transmission, which gives us unskewed whp numbers (even though Dynojet has a fudge factor in there which makes them skewed anyways and read high).

As for other dynos out there (i.e. Mustang and Dyno Dynamics) - they use a load cell to measure roll force (the amount of force the tire is placing on the roller). Based on roll force and the radius arm going to the load cell, we get roll torque. Based on roll torque and roll speed, we can get vehicle horsepower. Vehicle horsepower and vehicle RPM gives vehicle torque. It doesn't matter what gear you run in on load cell style dynos as they are measuring force, not acceleration. Force does not change from gear to gear.
 
SHOdded said:
So 5th is the right gear to be in?  This is apparently due to variable transmission losses in each gear in an automatic.  Apparently not a factor in manual transmissions.

From caranddriver:
http://media.caranddriver.com/files/2010-ford-taurus-sho2010-ford-taurus-sho-ecoboost.pdf

1:1 is primarily used because it not only yields the least amount of drive train loss but also gives the best sampling/load levels.

I love watching 96-98 4.6 GT's on the dyno.  Their pulls took an eternity with all their 170rwhp might.  haha
 
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