3.5 EB Swap into 99 Mustang racecar

A

aj hartman

New member
So I finally picked up a 3.5L Ecoboost from a totaled F150. 12000 miles. And an MT82 transmission from a 3.7L Mustang. I need to start a spread sheet for part numbers since my car will be a hodge-podge of newer mustang parts, in a 99 chassis. I got a Spec Stage 1 clutch and aluminum flywheel as well with some other misc bits to convert my car to hydraulic clutch. The throwout bearing/slave cylinder should work but have to confirm that still. It looks like it will at the moment. I got a master cylinder from a newer mustang (new) that I will fabricate some brackets to actuate it all. Initial test fit went well. It clears the steering shaft. The drivers side turbo is where it gets really tight. I still have the ball/socket exhaust flange on it, with about 8" of the truck exhaust still on it. The picture is of it just sitting in there with a spacer between the oil pan and stock K member. So that why it looks a little crooked. I also weighed the engine and trans along with my old 4.6 engine and trans.

3.5L ecoboost= 426 lbs. No oil, wire harness or clutch/flywheel
mt82= 130 lbs
4.6 2v iron block,clutch/flywheel, t45 transmission= 658lbs.

What the car looked like last season:
11154596_10205488522244904_4222928544865773681_o by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

So I'm ahead by about 100lbs, but its not quite apples to apples. Gotta add for wire harness, clutch/flywheel, and the additional intake tubing over a NA setup. I should loose 50lbs total, but more of that is over the nose, since the new trans in heavier than the old.

IMG_3759 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

I then pulled the engine back out and I pulled the oil pan off for two reasons. There was a small hair line crack in it (maybe from the accident but not sure) that I need to weld up, along with add some baffling around the pickup. When I took the pan off tho, I got a big surprise. It looks terrible inside there. When I drained the oil it looked fine. No sign of being ran with water in the oil so may be condensate from the engine sitting around for a while. The other issue is the passenger side turbo started leaking oil out when I turned the engine up side down. The drivers side was dry. Engines and turbos aren't my thing, but I'm guessing this shouldn't happen. Any input on either issue?

IMG_3764 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

IMG_3767 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

Thats about it for now.
 
What are you using for the fuel system ? I'm currently doing a 3.5 and am stuck as to what the fuel system setup should be. Whether stock pump and module + wiring or aftermarket pump and sender
 
SJfastback said:
What are you using for the fuel system ? I'm currently doing a 3.5 and am stuck as to what the fuel system setup should be. Whether stock pump and module + wiring or aftermarket pump and sender
Click to expand...

I would get a complete donor fuel system from a similar vehicle...thats what the controller is setup for
 
Thats one thing I have not looked into yet. Shouldn't be too difficult. Waiting for the control pack to show up along with getting the engine mounted in the car. Then I can run fuel lines and whatever else is needed. I already have a Radium Engineering surge tank so should just have to run a new line from that to the engine. I may be over simplifying tho.
 
So some big updates. The K member showed up from Maximum Motorsports. They were awesome enough to send me one without any engine mounts so I could just have at it. This thing is awesome. Not only is it lighter and stronger, in my case, with all the complicated turbo piping, will definitely aid in workability to get to some of the clamps and connections on the turbos. It was a pretty tight squeeze to get the engine in. It clears the steering shaft by about 1/4". Its as low and as set back as I could get it. I set the engine height with the rack busings raising the rack as high as it could go should I need it. The oil pan is only 1/16th above the rack. A custom oil pan and slightly re routed steering shaft would have allowed more of a set back but thats not in the cards right now. Below are some pictures of the mounts I made to make it all work. I picked up some engine mounts from Maximum as well. I can now get a measurement for the driveshaft. Does anyone know a good place that makes 2 piece drive shafts? I can also move ahead to mounting the shifter. The remote shifter should make it nice and easy to relocate to where I think its comfortable. I can start the radiator mounting along with the intercooler mounting as well. I have yet to pick up an intercooer tho. I mounted the clutch master and modified the pedal assembly I built about 4 years ago to all work together nicely. Run the line and the reservior and it should be good to go. I opted for a Spec Stage 1 clutch and aluminum flywheel since I'm not pushing much power at all and didn't want to drop the money on a crazy light weight, small diameter unit. I also popped the fenders and bumper on to see what kind of room I'd have for everything going on up front.

IMG_3795 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0359 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0360 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0362 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0363 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0364 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0367 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0369 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0370 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

SAM_0375 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr



SAM_0372 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr
 
Sorry for the extended delay. But a ton of progress has happened with this car. The race season just wrapped up and I was able to secure the regional championship thish year. This car has completed every lap of every race I entered. For a race car, thats unbelievable reliability. Pictures below.

Some pictures just because. Courtesy of Mike Woeller from WindShadow Photo Studios.

WSPS NASA ESC 09-23-2016 Group C Qualifying Day 1 2188-(ZF-10433-34000-1-001) by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

WSPS NASA ESC 09-23-2016 Group C Qualifying Day 1 1076-(ZF-10433-34000-1-003) by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

WSPS NASA ESC 09-23-2016 Group C Qualifying Day 1 2253-(ZF-10433-34000-1-002) by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

WSPS NASA ESC 09-22-2016 Open Testing 0060-(ZF-10433-34000-1-004) by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

WSPS AJSPOT 09-23-2016 Track 0001-3 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

WSPS AJSPOT 09-23-2016 Track 0001 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

14370211_10209579622679056_7522763420798499441_n by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

IMG_4141 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr
 
Your running the Ecoboost? I saw the fab pics any installed? Also Congrats! One helluva endeavour

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 
Engine bay pretty much finished. I will need to squeeze a better catch can in there somehwere. The bumper/splitter come off in about a minute so they are removed whenever I work on the car.

IMG_0151 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr
 
I needed to get it retuned. To make the car reach legal power levels for the class I race in, we actually had to de-tune it. The pre loaded Ford Performance tune put down 340hp/398tq. I've seen one other EB swapped car put down 370hp/440tq on the Ford Performance tune. They were able to tune it up to end up around 450hp/550tq! All from the stock engine which is crazy. So I had to have mine De-tuned to around 308hp/340tq. So since I'm not stressing the engine to what Ford built it for, it should be dead nuts reliable for many years.
 
Yeah. With the turbos, cutting boost is the main way to bring it down. I'll only see like 7psi, while on the Ford Performance tune I think its in the 14-15psi range. Aside from that, tuning isn't my thing and let my tuner handle it.
 
Our tinkering with carbon tubes made me very quickly realize how much I needed the ability to make all the sensor ports and bungs. Here is our very first attempt at the Intake Air Temp sensor port. This is our first attempt at "casting" a part. I dyed the bung the blue from our logo just for fun but several colors could be done. It should look cool when the bungs are blue just poking out of a black carbon tube. Funny enough, the technique is not very far off from how the OEMs make theirs. Tolerances on this part were .002 from the OEM plastic one. Thats pretty good if you ask me. I've had a few people on FB already ask me about bonding them to the exterior of an existing tube. I don't see why that wouldn't work so this might be an option for people looking to make their own intake tubing and then just bond this to it.

IMG_0232 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

IMG_0233 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr

IMG_0234 by AJ Hartman, on Flickr
 
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