We can debate this all day long to the functionality of a 3-bar or 2-bar map,or engine load being the highest right at up shift,3,4,5 cause the boost is highest there,,so many variables to take into consideration over the entire spectrum,such as AFR,TDC,PING,KNOCK,RETARD,IAT,VE,TIMING,etc,but have to aggree with Rich,SHOnUuP because buy the end of the day what really matters is how fast you can cross that finishing line at the track,Z. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGuIiuXgNbI
3 bar, tstat guys-- How's your driveability?
- Thread starter Jtrain
- Start date
Ajturbo...it's just that quite a few of us noticed what seemed to be a better all around feel when driving our cars when switching to 3bar tunes. Along with that also came the waste gate "honk". Along with those, albeit only monitoring boost with torque, I've only saw boost over 14 psi once in the cold and is usually mid to low 13's at best under wot. Seems we're pulling better power with less boost now.
Any speculation on that would be appreciated.
Rich
Any speculation on that would be appreciated.
Rich
Honk?
I know you won't like me saying this but would say you just think you feel a smoother running car...maybe I'm wrong but I'd have to see/feel it for myself ....I had 2 and 3 bar tunes...sometimes I leave the 3 bar sensor in and just run stock boost for the cold weather. Car feels stock no better or no worse.
I'm guessing you spike higher than 14 psi which is why it's good to have the 3 bar. The 3 bar sensor is simply a measuring device.
Tell me more about that honk?
I know you won't like me saying this but would say you just think you feel a smoother running car...maybe I'm wrong but I'd have to see/feel it for myself ....I had 2 and 3 bar tunes...sometimes I leave the 3 bar sensor in and just run stock boost for the cold weather. Car feels stock no better or no worse.
I'm guessing you spike higher than 14 psi which is why it's good to have the 3 bar. The 3 bar sensor is simply a measuring device.
Tell me more about that honk?
panther427
New member
The difference I would think is the 160 the fans will stay on constantly for often while the 170 would cycle on and off more like the stock 180 stat
Depends on how "hot" of a tune you run, or if you are constantly in traffic jams, or live in a very hot climate (like Phoenix, AZ or Death Valley, or even Miami 
). There are definite advantages to running the coolest TStat you can. I don't know if there is a quantitative study telling you that the 160 is x% better than the 170 or stock TStat when looking as a/b/c/... parameters, though. If you are tuning, generally you should go by the tuner's recommendations, ask them the question directly. They will need to account for the TStat in the tune to get you the full benefits anyway.
). There are definite advantages to running the coolest TStat you can. I don't know if there is a quantitative study telling you that the 160 is x% better than the 170 or stock TStat when looking as a/b/c/... parameters, though. If you are tuning, generally you should go by the tuner's recommendations, ask them the question directly. They will need to account for the TStat in the tune to get you the full benefits anyway.panther427 said:
Depends on how the tune is setup and what you change the desired coolant temp scalar. If you leave the temp setting alone then with a 160 or 170 fans may hardly ever come on if the ambient temps are cool. Radiator alone maybe be efficient enough to maintain the coolant temps. But if you have a 160 stat and lower the desired coolant temp to say 175 then the fans may come on more than a stock car with a stock stat and fan setting.
Also I would say if you are running much cooler coolant you may reduce the temp in the head and combustion chamber requiring a hotter plug than stock. I don't know off the top of my head but there is a optimum temp at the spark plug tip for a good burn and when head temps are low you may not be getting the plug tip up to temp.
I would say low coolant temps is negated by the higher boost pressures people are running hence people running cooler plugs but that is best determined by reading the plugs. That's the whole reason to change temperature plugs to place the plug in the optimum operating temp....This coming from NGK anyway
ZSHO said:
How are those answers the same? One said the fans come on less with a 160 and one said the fans stay on constantly.
With a 160 the fans would come on less if the scalars aren't changed in the tune. Desired coolant temp is 212 in the stock calibration but fans will come on more if the coolant temp setting is lowered closer to 160 with the 160 stat.
A lot of hardware changes with late model cars also require a calibration change to take full advantage...You can get away with intakes on these cars because they used speed density tuning logic(MAP based). If these were mass air flow tuned then I wouldn't throw an intake on without a tune for example
I run a 3 bar simply because LME's most aggressive tune requires it. Prior to that I was running their most aggressive 2 bar tune. There is an upgrade in performance with the 3 bar tune but I don't think it is specifically due to the 3 bar sensor. Yes, the 3 bar tune improves idle quality and overall smoothness but, again, I am not saying the reason is due specifically the sensor. More likely, in my opinion, Dan came up with a better balance of timing, boost and A/F ratio. I will certainly defer to those who have spoken with him on the subject, however.
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