Anyone change their transmission fluid yet...

[ddlopes]

I'm getting ready to change the fluid in my PTU and RDU on my 13' SHO with PP. I was thinking since I'm there I'd do the transmission fluid. And is everyone using Ford for their replacement fluid? My SHO has 22,000 miles

 

[ZSHO]

There are other good fluids as Redline,but personally would stick with the Motorcraft since your vehicle is still under warranty,another note regarding the trans fluid,based on the owners manuel out of all three they seem stiff on only using Motorcraft mercon LV ATF for the trans,based on my 13 SHO manuel,hope this helps.

 

[crash712us]

+1 MC only.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wasinger3000]

Agreed on the MC. I did a lot of reading about a replacement and most companies do not make a MC LV replacement. There are only 1 or 2 I could find.  Seems as though the MC oil will be just fine. Can be bought for $5 a quart at the dealer as well.

 

[brooklynsho]

Motorcraft lv trans fluid could not find egual fount out lv=low viscosity dont know what that means ? Mabe its thicker to slow its flow down

 

[ZSHO]

I think it will be more convenient getting a case of 12 if our cars take 11.6 quarts of transmission fluid.  Motorcraft® MERCON® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
•Premium-quality ATF for Ford and Lincoln transmissions
•Provides excellent performance in electronically controlled automatic transmissions
•Manufactured with high-viscosity index, premium-quality, hydroprocessed base oils and specially designed performance additives
•Provides excellent shifting characteristics at high and low ambient temperatures, and guards against transmission shudder
•Offers excellent thermal, oxidation and shear stability, as well as good low-temperature fluidity
•Provides wear protection and inhibits the formation of gum, sludge, lacquer and foam
•Helps prevent rust and corrosion
•Dyed red for easy leak detection
•Not for use in applications where MERCON® V, MERCON® SP, Continuously Variable Chain Type Transmission Fluid, Motorcraft® Premium Automatic Transmission Fluid, FNR5 Automatic Transmission Fluid or Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid is recommended
•Not for use in transfer cases
•Recommended by Ford Motor Company
•Available in cases of 12 one-quart bottles

 

[SHOdded]

15 quarts will be required if using the 3x drain/fill method.  Without a flush, the torque converter won't release it's share.  So the 3x D/F serves as a good substitute.

 

[ddlopes]

15 quarts will be required if using the 3x drain/fill method.  Without a flush, the torque converter won't release it's share.  So the 3x D/F serves as a good substitute.

So are you saying to drain and refill (3) times?

 

[SHOdded]

This is based on how much fluid you get out in 1 drain.  If you get out 11 quarts, you are set with just one cycle.  If you get out 5 quarts, you will need to drain a total of 3 times to get the same effect as a flush.  This 3x is true for the 6f50 transmission, and I expect it holds true for the 6f55 as well.

Put in the same quantity you drain each time.  Run the engine for three minutes, with the parking brake on and foot on the brake pedal, work through the gears.  Turn the engine off.  Drain & fill.  Repeat until total of 3 D/F cycles are complete.

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article000801818.cfm?0,w

I'd say don't waste time and money changing fluid that isn't even broken in yet...

 

[SHOdded]

I'd say don't waste time and money changing fluid that isn't even broken in yet...

And I'd agree with that, as long as you keep an eye on the color and smell of the fluid.

 

[anthonylee337]

When does Ford recommend changing the tranny fluid? 22k miles seems low for a fluid change.

 

[ZSHO]

I think personally 60k is average for transmission fluid change,would not try to exceed beyond that point,like SHOdded mentioned earlier it doesnt hurt to check the dip stick once in a while,at 22k should be a nice cherry color.

 

[ddlopes]

This is based on how much fluid you get out in 1 drain.  If you get out 11 quarts, you are set with just one cycle.  If you get out 5 quarts, you will need to drain a total of 3 times to get the same effect as a flush.  This 3x is true for the 6f50 transmission, and I expect it holds true for the 6f55 as well.

Put in the same quantity you drain each time.  Run the engine for three minutes, with the parking brake on and foot on the brake pedal, work through the gears.  Turn the engine off.  Drain & fill.  Repeat until total of 3 D/F cycles are complete.

Thanks for the detailed instructions!!!

 

[painterpatt]

Wait a minute. doesn't the owners manual say to flush and fill at 30k (for $180)??? Hmm, lifetime fluid, change at 30k...

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

My owners manual says 150K.

 

[ajpturbo]

I dumped my fluid the first month. LV is low viscosity. So it's thinner for fuel economy I guess. Someone earlier said thicker If I recall.

You don't have to use motorcraft at all, the fluid you use just has to meet the ford spec and then even if it doesn't ford would have their hands full denying warranty problems. To those of you that think otherwise I feel bad for you. They actually have to prove that the fluid is the problem and simply saying that it's the wrong brand or doesn't meet spec isn't enough of an argument. I can did up some old threads but some of you will either accept that answer or never accept it and the argument will be a waste of my time. Amsoil users have already proved this. A lot of automatic trannies are using LV fluid so it's not an exclusive fluid to Ford or the SHO for that matter.

Anyway one of the few ATF's out there that actually use a true type IV synthetic base stock is Amsoil. The others are a refined hydrocracked petroleum that is marketed at synthetic when it's really not but the big oil companies get away with calling it synthetic.

Read up on group III and group IV/V oils they are different animals and there is no question on superiority when you have the facts.

I can't say I feel or hear any difference in having all synthetics in my car and it's not cheap. Actually when you use the oil and fluid the proper length of time it's actually comparable and the protection is better and I run the piss out of my car so I like it.

Motorcraft fluids have proven to shear or lose viscosity really bad through used oil analysis  by 3rd party testing. So I really lost faith in MC after seeing the test data.

Its big in the mustang world where my GT track pack recommended 5w-50 MC synthetic and it sheared to a near 30 weight after only 1000 miles, that's not good. Group IV synthetic base stocks simply won't shear.

 

[SHOdded]

My owners manual says 150K.

I suggest to anyone that actually likes to put the pedal to the metal and/or does a lot of city/stopngo driving to read past the "normal operating conditions" section to the "special operating conditions" section.  Decide then what interval is suitable for you.  Keep a log of transmission temperatures to see what range the fluid is spending its' life in.  Are you allowing the trans to warm up fully before getting on it?  Or are you content to do so with only the engine warmed up to operating temp?

Normal Operating Temperature is where the transmission fluid is working at peak efficiency.  It will likely take forever to get to that point if you are not driving the vehicle.  So drive, but at least stay out of heavy throttle until then.  This (the extreme) is where true synthetic ATF has an advantage over mineral/semi-synthetics.
I do believe the 2013+ PP/PI have improved oil/trans fluid cooling over the 2010-12.  Hence, bpd's HowTo for the upgrade.

 

[painterpatt]

My owners manual says 150K.

Duh, I was in the Heavy Duty service part

 

[TSS]

Well, having a tune myself, and the way I drive as a result, I consider it Heavy Duty.  Doing mine every 25k miles....thats 2.5 years for me....I know I am over maintaining....