Are the stock brakes really this bad?

Scott4957

New member
Just doing some 0-120 runs for tuning and the brakes don't like it at all. Seems I get hot spots which make the brakes shutter like the rotors are warped, but after they cool down they are fine. Even a hard stop from 80 will make them do this, they recover quickly but I'm not impressed. As much as I want down pipes I think I will be spending the money on new rotors and pads.

Been doing some reading, thinking power stop rotors, seem to be the best buy and either EBC Red pads or I think Hawk makes some hybrid pads that are part ceramic that people like. Any feed back or tips on best prices appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Scott try bringing it back to the dealer you purchased it from and demand new Rotors and pads,especially within thirty days and you will feel a big difference with the oem setup.  Z
 
ZSHO said:
Scott try bringing it back to the dealer you purchased it from and demand new Rotors and pads,especially within thirty days and you will feel a big difference with the oem setup.  Z

Yeah I bought it about a month ago used from a Chevy dealer so I don't think they will do much. Its really not an issue unless you beat on them. Not sure warranty would cover that. Shes a big girl, better pads and rotors couldn't hurt.
 
Scott4957 said:
ZSHO said:
Scott try bringing it back to the dealer you purchased it from and demand new Rotors and pads,especially within thirty days and you will feel a big difference with the oem setup.  Z

Yeah I bought it about a month ago used Its really not an issue unless you beat on them. Not sure warranty would cover that.

Hate to be a debbie downer but.....does the quote above just sound bad or is it bad?

Not really an issue unless you beat on them lol...perhaps the brakes dont like it when you "beat on them " lol
 
What year is your car?

When you have a minute please update your sig with details as there are some significant changes between Gen 4.1 and 4.2.
 
ajpturbo said:
Hate to be a debbie downer but.....does the quote above just sound bad or is it bad?

Not really an issue unless you beat on them lol...perhaps the brakes dont like it when you "beat on them " lol


Its a 2013.

What I'm trying to say is under normal driving conditions I have no issue with them. Trying to slow down quickly from 100+ gives the vibration you feel with rotors that are getting too hot. Seeing that I have never done this in a new MKS/SHO or another MKS/SHO I don't have anything to compare it to. Some cars are like this new, just not enough brake, some you can can hammer the brakes all you want and they never fade. So to my original question, are they not this capable from the get go or do I need to be looking at something else causing the issue? Answering my own question, it seems to be quite common at one point or another from the posts I have located so I will likely just replace them all the way around.

 
2013+ brakes are awesome. You may have something going on...the 10-12s are horrible. I've owned both.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

 
So what changed in 2013? Different calipers or different rotors and pads? Both? The car will stop and fast, but until they cool down they feel a bit warped.
 
They increased master cylinder size rotor size pad material.

I have driven both. The 2013 are better. However I get the same pulsation as you when doing heavy braking. I just assumed they suck. Compared to other cars I have owned. Not very confidence inspiring
 
panther427 said:
They increased master cylinder size rotor size pad material.

I have driven both. The 2013 are better. However I get the same pulsation as you when doing heavy braking. I just assumed they suck. Compared to other cars I have owned. Not very confidence inspiring

Took the words right out of my mouth
 
I had mine replaced under warranty at 22k and stops better than ever,not quite sure what State you live in but just like the track the brakes also plays a significant role in higher elevated or humid areas causing somewhat decreased performance in both levels. Z
 
ZSHO said:
I had mine replaced under warranty at 22k and stops better than ever,not quite sure what State you live in but just like the track the brakes also plays a significant role in higher elevated or humid areas causing somewhat decreased performance in both levels. Z

In that case I should see what the dealership can do. I am at 25k. I didn't think something like brakes would be covered, thanks for the info. Do you have any details on what you told them or had them test? Did you have the problem at all speeds or was it just under heavy braking? I don't think saying they shake after slowing down from 120 will do LOL. Though I think a fast stop from 75 will likely do the same thing.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Scott4957 said:
ZSHO said:
I had mine replaced under warranty at 22k and stops better than ever,not quite sure what State you live in but just like the track the brakes also plays a significant role in higher elevated or humid areas causing somewhat decreased performance in both levels. Z

In that case I should see what the dealership can do. I am at 25k. I didn't think something like brakes would be covered, thanks for the info. Do you have any details on what you told them or had them test? Did you have the problem at all speeds or was it just under heavy braking? I don't think saying they shake after slowing down from 120 will do LOL. Though I think a fast stop from 75 will likely do the same thing.

Thanks,
Scott
I personally have great relations with my dealer and honestly it varies by dealer,mine was kind enough to replace them due to an annoying squeak when slowing down and some grooves on the rotor but no shaking,since your car was just purchased there might be a good chance they hopefully at least replace the fronts and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z
 
I should clarify my comment - the 2013s are great for stock brakes on a 4300 lb car...I do have the PP pads so maybe that helps me as well. There are guys road coursing them with appropriate pads and they withstand repeated laps. I've gotten on mine hard from 100+ and they don't exhibit any shaking/vibrating.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

 
My '13 (non-PP) had the same braking problems but eventually instead of "recovering" they just stayed shitty all the time.  That was on a car with under 34k miles.  If you want to go stock again you could try going to a dealership and see what they will do under warranty.  IMO...skip the OE stuff and upgrade to a good performance rotor and pads.  You can do all 4 corners for under $500 easy.  I switch over to power stops (along with quite a few others) and have been very happy.

 
ecoboostsho said:
I should clarify my comment - the 2013s are great for stock brakes on a 4300 lb car...I do have the PP pads so maybe that helps me as well. There are guys road coursing them with appropriate pads and they withstand repeated laps. I've gotten on mine hard from 100+ and they don't exhibit any shaking/vibrating.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
There is a night and day difference between PP and non PP pads.

The 2013 made all kinds of noise when provoked. You could feel what I would call increased friction through the pedal. No change in performance, very annoying.
 
panther427 said:
They increased master cylinder size rotor size pad material.

I have driven both. The 2013 are better. However I get the same pulsation as you when doing heavy braking. I just assumed they suck. Compared to other cars I have owned. Not very confidence inspiring

Same problem here under heavy braking only. My rotors were replaced before I bought it.


Sent from my iPhone
 
I have an aggressive driving style at times and sending datalogs to Torrie I've been pretty demanding of them.  I'm extremely happy with the PP brakes.  They DESTROY make my former Marauder's brakes seem like two blocks of cheese against a Frisbee.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
There is a night and day difference between PP and non PP pads.

The 2013 made all kinds of noise when provoked. You could feel what I would call increased friction through the pedal. No change in performance, very annoying.

I'm surprised just a change in the pad makes that much difference. Though I am sure its the composition and not just the shape. I guess that anyone that is replacing the rotors and pads has been getting the PP style pad? If you are 2013+ I believe you can put the PP shaped pad on PP and Non PP and MKS.
 
Back
Top