Before I turn this jinx in, humor me this

[Flexthis2011EB]

Last 2 issues with this thing and I'm done. Why would my fuel pump make funny twitching sounds and then stay runnning with key in run position, not started. Also, my coolant gauge stays on cold/ish when I first drive but if I turn car off then back on it goes to where it's supposed to be. I would say bad pcm but I literally just had it replaced a cpl months ago. I would take it back to Ford to get it check but I already have it tuned. Again, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

Last 2 issues with this thing and I'm done. Why would my fuel pump make funny twitching sounds and then stay runnning with key in run position, not started. Also, my coolant gauge stays on cold/ish when I first drive but if I turn car off then back on it goes to where it's supposed to be. I would say bad pcm but I literally just had it replaced a cpl months ago. I would take it back to Ford to get it check but I already have it tuned. Again, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Relays and solenoids....when you enter the car the LPFP primes the HPFP-normal.

Second one is probably just heat soak when all of the flow stops abruptly so heat has nowhere to go but into the now static coolant.

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

Wow, that's really good insight. Appreciate that. I was also gonna add that the car is driving great with no problems and the only DTC I have is p430 which I've had for awhile. Cpl places told me bad cat. Waiting to get dp's though.

 

[ZSHO]

Hows that heat of yours working?? can you monitor engine Coolant Temp's ECT) ? should be the same as the Intake Air Temperature (IAT). Z

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

Here's what I found. After all this nightmare starting with the fans, to the coolant to the cam/crank and fuel pump noises, I decided to back track big time of all repairs I did within last month. I found a few things. Wires that are supposed to be separate were tangled within each other (possibly can/crank sensor wires going to pcm). I found the cam sensor connectors orange rubber insulator was hanging out possibly interfering with the connection to the sensor. I added a bigger ground wire to battery for better grounding point. And I taped and wrapped all exposed wiring. I turned thermostat to where nipple was at 12 o'clock position. And I burped cooling system per instructions of forum. Everything is fine now. Car warms up normally without having to cycle key, fans are performing as they should and car drives great. Only thing I'm concerned about is the fuel pump noise. Member on here says it's normal but I don't remember hearing that before. I could be paranoid but when I stick key in run position, not starting it, the fuel pump in the gas tank goes buzz buzz.......buzz...buzzbuzz.....buzz....buuuuuuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzz and then stays buzzing/running until I start car. I thought it shut after after a minute.

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

Yep. Spoke too soon. P1336 came back. Bad crank sensor? Car still drives fine.

 

[ZSHO]

Here's what I found. After all this nightmare starting with the fans, to the coolant to the cam/crank and fuel pump noises, I decided to back track big time of all repairs I did within last month. I found a few things. Wires that are supposed to be separate were tangled within each other (possibly can/crank sensor wires going to pcm). I found the cam sensor connectors orange rubber insulator was hanging out possibly interfering with the connection to the sensor. I added a bigger ground wire to battery for better grounding point. And I taped and wrapped all exposed wiring. I turned thermostat to where nipple was at 12 o'clock position. And I burped cooling system per instructions of forum. Everything is fine now. Car warms up normally without having to cycle key, fans are performing as they should and car drives great. Only thing I'm concerned about is the fuel pump noise. Member on here says it's normal but I don't remember hearing that before. I could be paranoid but when I stick key in run position, not starting it, the fuel pump in the gas tank goes buzz buzz.......buzz...buzzbuzz.....buzz....buuuuuuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzz and then stays buzzing/running until I start car. I thought it shut after after a minute.

IMO you should hear a subtle whir sound when the door unlock tab on the key fob is pressed? Or when the door is open and the courtesy lamp circuit is activated? That is the low pressure pump priming the direct-injection high-pressure system and not quite sure the buzzing is normal.  Z

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

Hahaha. Ok. Now the fuel pump is normal. Whirrs for cpl secs then shuts off. I'm wondering if it had to cycle itself or something after removing battery connections? Idk. Now it's just a random p1336 cam/crank variations not learned/not in sync. I'll delete it and it will sometimes randomly pop up after a longer crank but no driving problems.

 

[derfdog15]

I believe there is a crank relearn procedure that can be performed from the sct tuner? May be worth looking into.

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

I believe there is a crank relearn procedure that can be performed from the sct tuner? May be worth looking into.

I was actually gonna ask if anyone on here has tried that? I'm wondering if it's safe. It says something about deleting previous saved misfire corrections or something like that to continue. Sounds a little sketchy.

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

So I just learned some interesting info on gearchatter.com. So a p1336 basically means that the crankshaft position system variation values are not stored in the PCM memory after some sort of disruption which could have been the accidental wire i cut and resoldered or could have happened when I took the camshaft position sensors out and cleaned them. I'll try the crank relearn procedure tomorrow using my sct.

 

[ajpturbo]

I believe there is a crank relearn procedure that can be performed from the sct tuner? May be worth looking into.

I was actually gonna ask if anyone on here has tried that? I'm wondering if it's safe. It says something about deleting previous saved misfire corrections or something like that to continue. Sounds a little sketchy.

Is it safe? I'm sure SCT tried it but anomalies happen all the time.....Your car is problem after problem, honestly I've never seen anything like it and I applaud you for the amount of patience you have with it....All joking aside I would've drove that car into a river or had someone accidentally torch it to the ground.

If it doesn't work would you be any further behind?

 

[SHOdded]

More than likely all the problems are either PCM or wiring related.  I am leaning to wiring because OP says the Flex is driving well.  Grounding points are numerous with today's cars, another failure point.  I would check the PCM connectors in particular, and the PCM's grounding point(s).  It may be that harness replacement is cheaper & easier than spending time chasing random gremlins.

 

[ZSHO]

I wholeheartedly agree with -MANU.
I also mentioned this a while back to check for any pinched or frayed  wiring and would warrant a multi meter to check for proper voltage. Z
Did you ever get a chance to put together the inner shell?


Diagram below dedicated to the FLEX. hope this helps any. Z
                                           

 

[Flexthis2011EB]

I wholeheartedly agree with -MANU.
I also mentioned this a while back to check for any pinched or frayed  wiring and would warrant a multi meter to check for proper voltage. Z
Did you ever get a chance to put together the inner shell?


Diagram below dedicated to the FLEX. hope this helps any. Z
                                           

Yes I did! After wrapping it all black with blue trim to match outside I installed it back up. Looks great!!  And I appreciate the input from those who decided not make fun and not make this a joke. Anyways, I'll part out by saying this. The only problem now is the p1336 which hasn't came back on since I did the relearn.( I did it with sct btw, worked fine, no harm done) Coolant tamp, fans, etc etc are all good now. Just that p1336. My car had a hard time starting this morning and drove with a light buck/stumble/miss ever now and again on cruising throttle but that may be due to the super negative temps outside. It eventually went away and again drove with no problems. I believe it just had to go through a its relearning stage as I may have somehow erased KAM memory through the various things I did. Side note, only reason I have so much patients with this car is because I'm bound in this contract with the car with no warranties so everything is up to me. I'm not the kind to sit and bitch. Im gonna gain knowledge and fix my problems.