Cold start rattle - timing chain / phasers

JDW1 said:
^lol.  I use the K&N filter with Mobile1 10-30.
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If you like using Mobil 1 then you should use 5w-30 labeled on your oil cap along with a Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter and see if the noise goes away,BTW think the Fram and K&N filter are made from cardboard inside,no metal frame inside.  Z
 
ZSHO said:
JDW1 said:
^lol.  I use the K&N filter with Mobile1 10-30.
Click to expand...
If you like using Mobil 1 then you should use 5w-30 labeled on your oil cap along with a Motorcraft FL-500S oil filter and see if the noise goes away,BTW think the Fram and K&N filter are made from cardboard inside,no metal frame inside.  Z
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I wholeheartedly agree with Z on this as the 5 weight will be thinner at startup and get into the nooks and crannies faster. I'm pretty sure Mobil has a 0-30 full synthetic as well...which is what I would run especially if you live in a climate that gets cold.
 
Yep..0-30 amsoil signature series in mine...thin and quick flowing when cold and appropriate viscosity when warm...all year oil.

Ive read even 0 doesnt flow fast enough on initial start when cold...so basically cant go too low and when it warms up it doesnt matter what the first number is anyway
 
Derp, typo on the 10w, I do use 5-30 but I will def try the MC filter next time. Thanks guys.  Also, I'm in Alabama so it doesn't get super cold, 0-30 may be a little much.
 
JDW1 said:
Derp, typo on the 10w, I do use 5-30 but I will def try the MC filter next time. Thanks guys.  Also, I'm in Alabama so it doesn't get super cold, 0-30 may be a little much.
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You can never have too little viscosity at startup. That is where 80% of engine wear occurs. The thinner it is the faster it gets to the moving parts.
 
Wouldn't your climate matter on the selection of your viscosity though? This came to me later, I'm pretty sure it matters.
 
Used to be the mfr's would suggest running a heavier weight oil in summertime and a lighter oil in wintertime, for appropriate startup characteristics.  Now it's the same oil year round.  Oils and their performance characteristics have improved greatly over time, partly reflected in the SAE ratings.  So I would take the mfr's guidance seriously for year-round performance.  If you consider changing to another oil/weight, compare the characteristics to make sure that your new oil will meet or exceed the requirements, the "meets xxxx specs" being a starting point. 

Although this is not as much of an issue anymore, in the past, when dino spec'd oil was the norm, people started using a full synth (usually Mobil 1) of the same weight.  Unfortunately, the full-synth oil did not really behave even close to what the dino oil was expected to, and proved too thin for practical use (outside engine tolerances), causing oil leaks through seals.  So if you were supposed to use 5W30 dino, you would have to use 5W40 full synth for comparable performance inside the engine.
 
SHOdded said:
Used to be the mfr's would suggest running a heavier weight oil in summertime and a lighter oil in wintertime, for appropriate startup characteristics.  Now it's the same oil year round.  Oils and their performance characteristics have improved greatly over time, partly reflected in the SAE ratings.  So I would take the mfr's guidance seriously for year-round performance.  If you consider changing to another oil/weight, compare the characteristics to make sure that your new oil will meet or exceed the requirements, the "meets xxxx specs" being a starting point. 

Although this is not as much of an issue anymore, in the past, when dino spec'd oil was the norm, people started using a full synth (usually Mobil 1) of the same weight.  Unfortunately, the full-synth oil did not really behave even close to what the dino oil was expected to, and proved too thin for practical use (outside engine tolerances), causing oil leaks through seals.  So if you were supposed to use 5W30 dino, you would have to use 5W40 full synth for comparable performance inside the engine.
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Shodded dont be that guy...if you are older than 60 ill give u a pass for being ignorant..tye guys that said you cant use synthetic because they cause leaks were stupid...if your car has leaks it will always leak..synthetics are more true to their viscosity ratings than non synthetic...so its kinda the opposite of what u said...non synthetics shear quickly so if u need 30 weight before long it will have sheared to less than that so more frequent oil changes may be required with crap oil
 
Did we ever figure out how to get rid of the rattle? Mine is quite loud and I just recently replaced the tensioner and belt (didn't change the noise). Im also changing the oil to AIMSOIL tomorrow to see if that will fix the issue. I'll try to take a video of the sound and post it here.
 
salsathe4th said:
Did we ever figure out how to get rid of the rattle? Mine is quite loud and I just recently replaced the tensioner and belt (didn't change the noise). Im also changing the oil to AIMSOIL tomorrow to see if that will fix the issue. I'll try to take a video of the sound and post it here.
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There is no timing belt..its a chain...your serp belt and tensioner will have no effect....the timing chain may be stretched
 
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