Looks like it'll be another trip to the dealer. Gotta get my monies worth out of this extended warranty! Fan is ~$160 on RockAuto and probably at least a couple hours labor, definitely worth the $100 deductible...plus I'm sure I can convince them when I brought it in before, and they investigated, that that should count towards the deductible as it's the same issue
Coolant smell and loss of coolant; engine running too warm?
- Thread starter Primalzer
- Start date
Little update: Talked to the dealer, and he said he wouldn't be able to do anything unless the idiot gauge on the dash gets to the red. I REALLY don't want to wait until that occurs...220 is too hot @SHOdded would you be able to confirm the 3.5 EB Flex fan activation? In theory it has the 190* stat.
So a quick internet search shows the cooling fans for the radiator to be a common failure on the 2010-2012 Ford Flex... I am surprised the dealer is not willing to work with you on it...
Honestly I would take it in, let it idle in front of them to show them when the temp gauge gets past halfway the fans don't kick on...
Honestly I would take it in, let it idle in front of them to show them when the temp gauge gets past halfway the fans don't kick on...
I'm looking at my chilton manual for my car. It's not giving me any info on specific temps when the fan turns on. All it's giving me is the thermostat starts to open at 180 degrees and it's fully open at 203 degrees. Nothing about the fan.
I'd be very hesitant to allow your car's temp to get up there. High heat and aluminum heads are not a good combination. Anything above the middle of the gauge and I'm turning the car off because it's overheating. If this were me, I'd really be pushing Ford to replace those fans. Have they actually seen the car overheating or are they just taking your word for it at this point?
Here's a PDF of the DTCs to run through with cooling issues if you want to take a look. It's for a 2010 MKS, but it's probably the same thing for your car.
I'd be very hesitant to allow your car's temp to get up there. High heat and aluminum heads are not a good combination. Anything above the middle of the gauge and I'm turning the car off because it's overheating. If this were me, I'd really be pushing Ford to replace those fans. Have they actually seen the car overheating or are they just taking your word for it at this point?
Here's a PDF of the DTCs to run through with cooling issues if you want to take a look. It's for a 2010 MKS, but it's probably the same thing for your car.
Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) Sensor — 3.5L GTDI
Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector
2 6G004 CHT sensor
3 W503274 Ground wire-to-engine front cover bolt
Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) outlet pipe and the ACL . For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .
Position the ACL -to-RH turbocharger intake tube aside. For additional information, refer to Intake Air System Components — Exploded View in Section 303-12 .
Remove the ground wire-to-engine front cover bolt.
Disconnect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector.
Remove and discard the CHT sensor.
To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Do not reuse the CHT sensor. Install a new sensor.
Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector
2 6G004 CHT sensor
3 W503274 Ground wire-to-engine front cover bolt
Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) outlet pipe and the ACL . For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .
Position the ACL -to-RH turbocharger intake tube aside. For additional information, refer to Intake Air System Components — Exploded View in Section 303-12 .
Remove the ground wire-to-engine front cover bolt.
Disconnect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector.
Remove and discard the CHT sensor.
To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Do not reuse the CHT sensor. Install a new sensor.
Correct, need a tuning device to pull the current strategy code from the PCM. Might be physically on the PCM or in the vicinity, but no way to know if that stategy is current.
I don't think Forscan Lite pulls that info, but I'd have to check.
Let's see how the new cap does. The water pump does have a weep hole. The smell might be from coolant escaping via that route.
I don't think Forscan Lite pulls that info, but I'd have to check.
Let's see how the new cap does. The water pump does have a weep hole. The smell might be from coolant escaping via that route.
Coolant smell is less pronounced, but temps still do creep up when the AC is not on. When keeping an eye on the temps, it does go up to about 215, and then back down to 190-195 and cycles back up. Could that be a stock 190 t-stat? I get conflicting information on what the stock temperature for the t-stat, either 190 or 180.
Also, I picked up a used LME myCal, it hasn't been "unlocked" but should it be able to pull the strategy still?
Also, I picked up a used LME myCal, it hasn't been "unlocked" but should it be able to pull the strategy still?
Sounds like a stock tstat to me. I believe the cooling fans come on around 220F.
Might want to take the bellypan off and check the waterpump weephole. If that looks good, most likely a hose-related issue, or the radiator has a pinhole leak. Neither of these is common at all, but maybe some work done in the past is not holding up. Also, check the degas bottle thoroughly for cracks, as that was an issue on some Fusions in years past.
Might want to take the bellypan off and check the waterpump weephole. If that looks good, most likely a hose-related issue, or the radiator has a pinhole leak. Neither of these is common at all, but maybe some work done in the past is not holding up. Also, check the degas bottle thoroughly for cracks, as that was an issue on some Fusions in years past.