Cylinder 3 misfire code, limp mode and now stalled

like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.

And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing. ;)

Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.
 
kinder said:
like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.

And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing. ;)

Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.
Click to expand...

As soon as I get done with class I will swap out MAP sensors, change tune back to stock, and then see if the problem persists. I do not leave the bluetooth OBDII plugged in unless I am datalogging. If it is still acting up I will swap coil 3 with another coil and see if it still throws a code. It is my understanding that it is based off the crank sensor determing that when that cylinder should be firing it is not seeing an increase in rotational speed, therefore it can determine what cylinder is misfiring. Just my luck it is on the backside of the engine. :?
 
I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver.  Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:

1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6

#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access.  I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.
 
SHOdded said:
I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver.  Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:

1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6

#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access.  I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.
Click to expand...
Swapped 3 and 6s coil and reset ecu.  Get the same cylinder 3 misfire. Once engine cools down I will pull plug. A friend followed me hime and said the car smelled of fuel bad and had blue smoke babying it.
 
So I swapped the coils around and reset the tune to factory and swapped back to a two bar map sensor. Still takes 15 seconds to fire and runs like poop. Smells like gas out the exhaust and when a load is put on it I get bluish smoke, and the cylinder 3 misfire comes back along with the P00C6. Has anyone changed out injectors before? It looks like I have to pull the intake manifold to get to them, and I have no clue what it looks like under there. I'm guessing Ford will charge about a grand, and my extended warranty on the powertrain won't cover it. I guess I will have to do it my self if the extended warranty doesn't cover it.

Edit:  Drove it down the block and just smells like gas horribly. Also am getting bank one rich codes and showing almost 1v on bank 1 02 sensor. its also calling for bank one to goto -30% on fuel trim.
 
wasinger3000 said:
How many miles are on the car?

Hate to see a car down like this. If i was close I'd help you swap the injector.
Click to expand...
61k. It doesn't look to bad just pull the intake and then 6 bolts on the rail along with the fuel line. The chilton link was awesome let me pull up the sho manual. It says I need a injector puller to get it out of the cylinder head and a tool to put the orings on the new injector.

My local dealer has the injector listed at 196 and tasca has them listed at 90. I was debating towing it to the dealer  for a fuel fliw test where the measure fuel pressure and turn on and of each injector but I don't think the $75 is needed.
 
The cost for shipping back and forth and time lost here can be ofset by new injectors. The ford tech said he can have them cycle in the car one by one and read the fuel pressure. The one that is open will show more pressure than the other two on the same bank due more flow with 1.5 injectors open.
 
Just to throw this out there, but my misfire ended up being a cracked piston.  Car would shudder and surge when starting up and the exhaust definitely had a very rich smell.  Never had a chance to hook my Torque up to see what my ratio was...

Dealer replaced plugs, swapped coils, did a contribution balance test on the injectors, and finally a compression test showed #2 was down 19% vs the other cylinders.
 
I had excess oil on the CCV system caused by blowby, but I didn't magically gain oil in the pan.  Haven't had a chance to really go over the details with my service adviser, but I'm pretty sure there wasn't any oil dilution beyond "spec".
 
wasinger3000 said:
If this is the case for him wouldn't there be excessive blow by and fuel contaminated oil? You could check for these things first.
Click to expand...
I had just changed the oil a week ago. It still looks like it did when it was poured in. There was minimal condesation/oil in the CAC at the same time when I checked/cleaned it.
 
PokerMunkee said:
If they can fix it for $200, it will be the best $200 you've spent in a long time.  Let them handle it. 

I remember this post of a '10 guy having a stuck injector.  Another member posts at the end he had to pay $1,100 to fix same thing: http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16665
Click to expand...
Thanks. Went to pick up injector and decided to see how much money i would save by doing it myself. It came back to $426 installed. The fact it is hot outside and I don't have a garage sold me to just have them swap it for $200 in labor and $200 for the injector and they will fill the coolant and bleed it for me.
 
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