Living in Canada, we have no choice but to have DRL's active on our cars and trucks. Ford for whatever reason decided to put Halogen projectors on the Canadian SHO's (Even though the 2013's have the ability to be programmed to have the DRL as the turn signal (Which I have rectified with a true HID retrofit). Same as the Explorer and F150's with OEM HID for example. I did the Switchback how to that is on this thread and most of that is relevant to this how to, with one major change. With the V-Leds V3 Triton switchbacks the DRL is white and not amber. Which I thought was worth the change alone. So let me explain further, when you put the car in gear. The turn signal circuit comes on, when you engage the turn signal it flashes. With the V3 Triton you get a White light when the DRL is active and an amber when the turn signal flashes. So on to the how to....
My parts list is for 5K color temp, you can change it to 6K if you wish.
You need to get this stuff:
SwitchBacks
http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/3157-3157ck-3156-led/switchback-led/v3-wa-5k-3157.html
Sidemarkers
http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/194-168-158-led/5k-white-led/6-5k.html
Resistors
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/turn-signal-resistors-3/turn-signal-resistors.html
http://www.henkel.com/fullproductlist-electronics.htm?redDotUID=90000000057
Ok since you have all your stuff sitting in front of you with your hood open, and you are about to freak out, have a drink from your fav refreshment. It's not that bad.
The relays are needed due to the way Ford runs the canbus for the DRL and turn signals. The V3's turn off the built in load resistors to protect themselves after a few seconds running in DRL mode. This causes a panic attack by the cpu of the car because now it thinks the bulb is out. The car pulses the circuit the V3 detects a voltage drop and thinks you have turned on your signal. So it goes to amber and turns on the built in load resistors. With the CPU now detecting a load on the circuit it turns it back to normal voltage. And you get the picture, you will get a random switch back when driving around. So this is how I fixed it and its working perfect.
When you order your V3's ask for Jake, he will set you up with what you need for this job. Ensure that you tell him that you have a Ford and will be running these for DRL. (this also applies to any newer Ford). He will send you the relays and all the good stuff. This write up is for those of us that already has the V3's and wants to run them in DRL mode.
If you have a Taurus (2013 or Newer) You can go to your dealer and ask them to program your car to have the amber lights run as the DRL, instead of Halogen. Or if you have OEM HID just tell them to enable the feature. As per here
http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=17459
Jake at Vleds will get you the relays and the wiring harness, you will only need to run power to the relays. The trig for the relays is your turn signal wire, which is already in the harness. The location I picked for the Load resistors was on the front of the strut towers as per the pics. I used the thermal adhesive to attach them to the metal. This is really important as the load resistors need to dissipate the heat they will generate. Using a temp gun mine topped of at 125F. Well below the threshold of 250F. I really need to clean my engine bay, damn Canadian winters.
And the final result! In this pic you will see that the LED side markers are on. I was alone when I took this so I wasn't crazy about leaving it in gear all by itself. But you get the idea, so you are driving and they are white like in the pic. Once you engage the turn signal they will flash amber, then back to white once the signal is off. I will post a vid of the operation once I get someone to give me a hand. Questions let me know!
Enjoy!
A video of the operation, as you can see in the vid when you first put the car in gear they are amber for about one second. Then they change to white. They also have the ability to dim when the your full headlight system is on, reducing glare to oncoming traffic. The HID also when fully warm matches almost identically to the V3s.
My parts list is for 5K color temp, you can change it to 6K if you wish.
You need to get this stuff:
SwitchBacks
http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/3157-3157ck-3156-led/switchback-led/v3-wa-5k-3157.html
Sidemarkers
http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/194-168-158-led/5k-white-led/6-5k.html
Resistors
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/turn-signal-resistors-3/turn-signal-resistors.html
http://www.henkel.com/fullproductlist-electronics.htm?redDotUID=90000000057
Ok since you have all your stuff sitting in front of you with your hood open, and you are about to freak out, have a drink from your fav refreshment. It's not that bad.
The relays are needed due to the way Ford runs the canbus for the DRL and turn signals. The V3's turn off the built in load resistors to protect themselves after a few seconds running in DRL mode. This causes a panic attack by the cpu of the car because now it thinks the bulb is out. The car pulses the circuit the V3 detects a voltage drop and thinks you have turned on your signal. So it goes to amber and turns on the built in load resistors. With the CPU now detecting a load on the circuit it turns it back to normal voltage. And you get the picture, you will get a random switch back when driving around. So this is how I fixed it and its working perfect.
When you order your V3's ask for Jake, he will set you up with what you need for this job. Ensure that you tell him that you have a Ford and will be running these for DRL. (this also applies to any newer Ford). He will send you the relays and all the good stuff. This write up is for those of us that already has the V3's and wants to run them in DRL mode.
If you have a Taurus (2013 or Newer) You can go to your dealer and ask them to program your car to have the amber lights run as the DRL, instead of Halogen. Or if you have OEM HID just tell them to enable the feature. As per here
http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=17459
Jake at Vleds will get you the relays and the wiring harness, you will only need to run power to the relays. The trig for the relays is your turn signal wire, which is already in the harness. The location I picked for the Load resistors was on the front of the strut towers as per the pics. I used the thermal adhesive to attach them to the metal. This is really important as the load resistors need to dissipate the heat they will generate. Using a temp gun mine topped of at 125F. Well below the threshold of 250F. I really need to clean my engine bay, damn Canadian winters.
And the final result! In this pic you will see that the LED side markers are on. I was alone when I took this so I wasn't crazy about leaving it in gear all by itself. But you get the idea, so you are driving and they are white like in the pic. Once you engage the turn signal they will flash amber, then back to white once the signal is off. I will post a vid of the operation once I get someone to give me a hand. Questions let me know!
Enjoy!
A video of the operation, as you can see in the vid when you first put the car in gear they are amber for about one second. Then they change to white. They also have the ability to dim when the your full headlight system is on, reducing glare to oncoming traffic. The HID also when fully warm matches almost identically to the V3s.
LOL ...It may kill you, but it won't eat you!