EBC Front

[jtoddk98]

At 39,500 miles, my front pads and rotors are just about done. Rears are still ok. I am looking into getting these EBC rotors and pads instead of stock http://autoplicity.com/products/4252461-ebc_s4kf1273.aspx
Are these good? They are around the same price as stock ones, my dealer quoted me $326 to do just the fronts. How long will these EBCs last?

 

[Josephm]

Curious as well

 

[donky4444]

I love them. I only have about 6,000 miles on them so far but no issues as of now.

 

[jtoddk98]

I love them. I only have about 6,000 miles on them so far but no issues as of now.

are they much better then stock? Did you do just the front or all around?


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[wasinger3000]

I wonder how the cooling compares on these vs stock. The design of our rotors is specific to the sho and Explorer Sport, and flex.

Quoted from motor trend.

" The SHO's brakes were co-developed with those for the new Taurus police package, and they're shared with the Flex. The front rotors are of an "inverted-hat" design (see photo), and they weigh 11 pounds more than the ones they replace. That's actually the point--increase thermal mass so the rotors take the heat while the pads (and hence brake fluid) stay cool. Note that they are not cross-drilled--that just removes thermal mass. To tune for this added weight, the lateral bushing compliance in the front suspension was reduced by 30 percent, improving overall turn-in responsiveness."

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[ecoboostsho]

I wonder how the cooling compares on these vs stock. The design of our rotors is specific to the sho and Explorer Sport, and flex.

Quoted from motor trend.

" The SHO's brakes were co-developed with those for the new Taurus police package, and they're shared with the Flex. The front rotors are of an "inverted-hat" design (see photo), and they weigh 11 pounds more than the ones they replace. That's actually the point--increase thermal mass so the rotors take the heat while the pads (and hence brake fluid) stay cool. Note that they are not cross-drilled--that just removes thermal mass. To tune for this added weight, the lateral bushing compliance in the front suspension was reduced by 30 percent, improving overall turn-in responsiveness."

Sent using smoke signals.

Very true on the 2013+ not so on the 2010-2012 models...our brakes suck.   I have the EBC Red Stuff and rotors and they are a nice improvement over stock.  I get a tiny bit of "whoosh" noise from the slots at slow speeds but it is barely noticeable.

 

[wasinger3000]

Ahhh yes. Forgot about the previous gen brakes. I'm surprised no one has tried to do a swap to 13's. I wonder if they will bolt up.

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[SHOdded]

You mean something like this?  http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609.0.html

Besides, upgrading just the rotors/pads to aftermarket (EBC, Hawk, Power Stop, etc)  has made a big difference for most owners.

 

[mval]

mine is a '10 put on ebc slotted w/red stuff all around about 1 year ago, no issues whatsoever & a huge upgrade to stock as far as i'm concerned

 

[wasinger3000]

Wonder why ford waited till 13 to upgrade eveything. I would assume after 10' it was quite obvious the car needed a few performance enhancements.

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[donky4444]

I love them. I only have about 6,000 miles on them so far but no issues as of now.

are they much better then stock? Did you do just the front or all around?


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Big improvement over stock in all areas, pedal feel, stopping power, resistance to warping.

 

[glock-coma]

Just finished installing ebc usr7510 front rotors and dp31767c pads.
Here's a pic of the non PP dp31825c pads on top
And the PP dp31767c on the bottom.
I do not have PP but the pads went in just fine.

I'll have some installed pics tomorrow.

 

[ZSHO]

I never tried the Ebc brand brakes,other pads I needed to follow a strict break in procedure especially when install of new front rotors and pads,to avoid a shimmy,let us know how you like them.

 

[shoman04]

At 39,500 miles, my front pads and rotors are just about done. Rears are still ok. I am looking into getting these EBC rotors and pads instead of stock http://autoplicity.com/products/4252461-ebc_s4kf1273.aspx
Are these good? They are around the same price as stock ones, my dealer quoted me $326 to do just the fronts. How long will these EBCs last?

You mean something like this?  http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609.0.html

Besides, upgrading just the rotors/pads to aftermarket (EBC, Hawk, Power Stop, etc)  has made a big difference for most owners.

EBC are very good. I have the PowerStop. The stock PPbrakes/rotor bit the dust at 25,000mlies I have 40,000 miles on the pwrstop! I had the oil change and pads checked yesterday, pstop start with 75mm pads and are still 45mm on them now!!!! AND I AUTOCROSS!!!! about one time a mouth.

 

[jtoddk98]

Ordered them last week. Should be here tomorrow. Any break in procedure for these? Or just drive like normal


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[glock-coma]

Ordered them last week. Should be here tomorrow. Any break in procedure for these? Or just drive like normal
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How to bed in your new brakes for street/urban driving

BEDDING IN NEW EBC PADS AND DISCS

Use brakes with minimal pressure for first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only. Brakes will feel very sharp and responsive but this is ONLY the brake in coating working which gives an abnormally high friction level feeling.Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure and load UNLESS in an emergency in which case apply brake as hard as required.Clean wheels off as there will be residue from the brake-in coating after bed in.Look for a full width contact across the pad depth( rotor braking band) from the outer edge of the disc to the inner and if not achieved allow a further 100-200 miles steady driving. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated. When installing new rotors, reduced width banding is quite possible due to various tolerances and slight misalignments in the vehicle chassis and is NOT a warranty defect or a reason to remove and inspect brakes. Many European cars have SINGLE PISTON CALIPERS and these tend to “Flair” open and cause the contact band described above only to be seen at the outer edge of the disc/rotor and work its way inwards taking up to 1000 miles to do so.After full width contact band is attained make a further 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes hot. Some smells may occur even slight smoke during this final heat up stage of the pads in early life. Then coast the vehicle for a mile to allow discs to cool. Do not pull up and park vehicle with brake excessively hot. You must try to get the discs down to below 60-80 degrees C temperature before parking the vehicle.When parked let brakes cool to a final cool-to-touch point. Before touching discs splash a few tiny drops of water onto the disc to asses its temperature to avoid burning fingers. If the water spots cause a “hiss” you have parked up too soon and should go out and drive slowly allowing the brakes to cool further.

NEW DISCS TAKE LONGER TO BED IN

Fully bedding new pads to decent condition worn discs/rotors may take only 200-300 miles but when new discs are fitted at the same time bed in times to achieve outer to inner edge contact ( full width blue-grey contact band as mentioned under point 4 above ) can be as long as 800-1000 miles due to extra components needed to be aligned to the vehicle. To Short cut this you can ( and EBC recommend should) have EVEN NEW DISCS Pro Cut Lathe aligned to your vehicle. This process removes only microns of new disc material and shortens bed in time by 75% of the time it COULD take giving you better brakes faster and avoiding hot spotting and pad glazing.

BADLY WORN DISCS/ROTORS CAN TAKE AN AGE TO BED IN

Discs/Rotors with more than 0.5 mm ( 0.020 inches) of lip at the outer edge or hollow in the centre of the braking area can take up to 2000 miles to bed in and will for sure cause Noise, brake fade,vibration and pad burning. Bad rotors can RUIN your pads. 95% of brake fade and noise complaints come from poor disc/rotor condition where the pads touch only at the outer and inner edges and have no chance to deliver an effective brake.

Again new Discs/rotors is the solution or a Pro Cut on car Brake lathe re alignment.



2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+boost
more to come.....

 

[jtoddk98]

That sounds like a lot of fun. Haha.


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[jtoddk98]

they came in! look great. probably getting them on this weekend.

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[glock-coma]

Your going to love them.
Huge improvement over stock.

 

[Kolk1]

I have the kit posted in the first post, front and rear, and I dont know, maybe its me since Ive had tons of brake issues with this car, but mine hum at medium braking. They stop great, just hum a little. None of my other brakes have ever hummed before this set.

I also bought steel braided lines I havent put on yet. Im almost debating on buying a 4th set of brakes for this car, and do it then....