Engine hesitated, smell of gas in cabin...

DRII

New member
so was riding along and then all of sudden the engne started to rumble/hesitate and then the smell of gas in the cabin.

turned her off and tried to restart.  wouldn't start, had to wait around 15 minutes and then it finally turned over. 

engine was still rumbling and could smell gas.  after about 10 minutes it started to run more or less normally, but the engine light remains on.

threw codes P0330 and P0306, knock sensor and misfire.

an Orielly tech told me it probably just needs a tune up...



So what do you guys think.

If i do get a tune up, where should i go (stealership???) and should i go ahead and get anything special done (like the specific plugs gapped a specific amount)?

I really haven't used my tune for a while now.

when they replaced my engine (for the 2nd time - 1st was flooding, 2nd threw a rod which the dealership took responsibility for, luckily) about 3 years ago, it seemed like a really stout unit (plus i have enough speeding tickets) so i never reinstalled any tune.
 
If you sniff the tail pipe is there a strong odor of gas and/or a white vapor?

I had a similar issue on my Explorer and it turned out to be a stuck fuel injector that was replaced under the 80k emissions warranty.

If it is an injector, I wouldn’t drive it, as the raw fuel can dump into the exhaust and destroy the catalytic converter.

EDIT: My codes were P0316 (misfire on startup), P00C6 (fuel rail pressure too low), and P0302) cylinder 2 misfire). The #2 injector was replaced.


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MiWiAu said:
If you sniff the tail pipe is there a strong odor of gas and/or a white vapor?

I had a similar issue on my Explorer and it turned out to be a stuck fuel injector that was replaced under the 80k emissions warranty.

If it is an injector, I wouldn’t drive it, as the raw fuel can dump into the exhaust and destroy the catalytic converter.

EDIT: My codes were P0300 (multiple cyl misfire) and P0306 (culture 6 misfire. The #6 injector was replaced.

thanks for the info!

sounds like this might be it.

last time i went to the stealership they replaced a purge valve due to the engine throwing emissions codes.  ever since then (about 6 months ago maybe) i noticed more and thicker exhaust than usual at times.

my current engine only has about 39K on it, so hopefully any repairs should still be under warranty.  we'll see...

do you remeber the cost?


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thanks for the info!

sounds like this might be it.

last time i went to the stealership they replaced a purge valve due to the engine throwing emissions codes.  ever since then (about 6 months ago maybe) i noticed more and thicker exhaust than usual at times.

my current engine only has about 39K on it, so hopefully any repairs should still be under warranty.  we'll see...

do you remeber the cost?
 
MeanKS said:
MiWiAu said:
If you sniff the tail pipe is there a strong odor of gas and/or a white vapor?

I had a similar issue on my Explorer and it turned out to be a stuck fuel injector that was replaced under the 80k emissions warranty.

If it is an injector, I wouldn’t drive it, as the raw fuel can dump into the exhaust and destroy the catalytic converter.

EDIT: My codes were P0300 (multiple cyl misfire) and P0306 (culture 6 misfire. The #6 injector was replaced.

thanks for the info!

sounds like this might be it.

last time i went to the stealership they replaced a purge valve due to the engine throwing emissions codes.  ever since then (about 6 months ago maybe) i noticed more and thicker exhaust than usual at times.

my current engine only has about 39K on it, so hopefully any repairs should still be under warranty.  we'll see...

do you remeber the cost?


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thanks for the info!

sounds like this might be it.

last time i went to the stealership they replaced a purge valve due to the engine throwing emissions codes.  ever since then (about 6 months ago maybe) i noticed more and thicker exhaust than usual at times.

my current engine only has about 39K on it, so hopefully any repairs should still be under warranty.  we'll see...

do you remeber the cost?

I can check my invoice when I get home, but I know I wasn’t charged. The fuel injectors are covered under the long term defects warranty and were covered to 80k miles on my explorer (or 8 years, I think)


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Its sounds like the Front (drivers side) number 6 injector needs to be replaced! Do not Drive the vehicle until sorted out IMO!
I would Check the knock sensor wires for chaffing located next to the thermostat housing. I'm hoping they will warranty your issues and keep us updated. Z
 
^^^ Cannot emphasize strongly enough.  You risk destroying the catalytic converter if you continue to try and operate the vehicle.
 
ok, i appreciate the warnings.

but some additional info:

driving home after 10 mins the engine ran normally.

the computer mpg actually went up .1!

so whats the deal with that?
 
I went back and corrected my prior post. Mine was injector 2, not 6. Codes present were:

P00C6 - fuel rail pressure too low
P0302 - cyl 2 misfire
P0316 - misfire on startup

My vehicle mileage at the time of failure was 32,764.

There are no hours associated to the repair on my repair order and it’s all listed as “no charge”


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MeanKS said:
ok, i appreciate the warnings.

but some additional info:

driving home after 10 mins the engine ran normally.

the computer mpg actually went up .1!

so whats the deal with that?

Is the vehicle modified in any other way or is it completely stock? Has anything been done service-wise recently? The smell of fuel is concerning. Maybe you have a intermittently functional component on its way out - hard to say. As far as the fuel economy is concerned, I would say 0.1 difference over 10 miles is statistically insignificant.

Is your CEL on solid or flashing? When I had my injector issue, it was flashing, which is uber bad. Luckily, my issue manifested literally as I was pulling into my driveway, and I had it put on a flatbed and towed to the dealer before driving it again.


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MiWiAu said:
MeanKS said:
ok, i appreciate the warnings.

but some additional info:

driving home after 10 mins the engine ran normally.

the computer mpg actually went up .1!

so whats the deal with that?

Is the vehicle modified in any other way or is it completely stock? Has anything been done service-wise recently? The smell of fuel is concerning. Maybe you have a intermittently functional component on its way out - hard to say. As far as the fuel economy is concerned, I would say 0.1 difference over 10 miles is statistically insignificant.

Is your CEL on solid or flashing? When I had my injector issue, it was flashing, which is uber bad. Luckily, my issue manifested literally as I was pulling into my driveway, and I had it put on a flatbed and towed to the dealer before driving it again.


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its solid now, but when the engine was really rumbling the engine light was flashing.

just went out and started it after going over the engine and seeing if i could tell if any gasoline had pooled and smelling around.

it started up normally, no rough idle, but the engine light is still on (solid).

earliest i could get in the dealer was Sat.

think i'm going to get a bottle of techron and add it to the tank!
 
MeanKS said:
and the car is completely stock now...


Per the owner’s manual regarding the CEL: “If the light is blinking, engine misfire is occurring which could damage your catalytic converter. Drive in a moderate fashion (avoid heavy acceleration and deceleration) and have your vehicle serviced immediately by your authorized dealer.”

If it starts blinking on you again, I would recommend pulling over as soon as safely possible to minimize any further damage.

If you have access to other transportation and can drop it off early tomorrow, sometimes they can squeeze you in earlier for diagnostics.

Keep us posted on what they find! Good luck!


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alright guys...

so i went out and got 2 bottles of techron, added it to my tank, which was half full, topped it off with some Amoco Ultimate, and viola -- the engine light goes off.

i'll still take it to the stealership soon to have them look at it, plus i know i need my front brakes done anyway...
 
Since its #6 cylinder located right in Front bank Driver's side ,would check inspect the Spark plug ASAP! Z
 
With port injected engines, I would have greater certainty in saying that Techron resolved the problem, but you need to treat regularly.  With DI engines, I just do not have that certainty, as there no specific claims related to its' effectiveness in said engines.  In fact, although you now find DI specific products on the market, there are still no studies of effectiveness of PI cleaners in DI systems.  The main concern being that due to the very high pressures involved in DI engines, deposits REALLY get stuck to the injectors and are VERY hard to remove.  So it is important to keep the fuel system clean ALL the time.
 
MPG has gone up another 2 ticks.

the engine is running very smoothly.

No engine light on...

Been searching around for fuel injector cleanings (professional), most shops will not touch our 3.5 TT DIs!  they say 'go to the dealership'!  so i'll get that done on next saturday most likely, the one dealer i called says they charge $200 for it.  seems steep.  the machine they use is made by 'Mach'; i'm searching for other shops that may have the same equipment and if they'll feel confident doing the service.

I've just had so many bad experiences servicing my car at local Ford/Lincoln dealerships, that i look for other reputable smaller shops.

anyway, i'm gong to Mieneke today to have them look at the front end and the slight shimmy i feel sometimes when going over bumps and see what they say about it.  the manager said he thinks it may be the sway bars link or bushings.  i'll probably get them to do the front brakes as well if they need work and oil change.

any reason they shouldn't do our oil changes?
 
Every shop is different, ultimately  based on your trust in them.

As far as FI service, ZSHO had his done at a dealership, they used Valvoline  pro grade products, and it was effective  IIRC.

Any shop that services diesel common rail should be able to do this work.
 
so the Mieneke guy says the right strut is in the beginnings of failing.  he says theres not much extra movement, but he did detect some.  i can concur, only happens over certain bumps/expansion joints/cobble stones etc.

he recommends changing both fronts out in the next 6,000 miles or so (will be about a $500 to $700 job) depending on parts.

He's doing the oil change.

He said the front brakes are fine, but the back ones have to be done.

still looking for a shop that will do the FI cleaning, but i have to say, the Techron does seem to be making a difference.
 
Here's some info on the Valvoline VPS Intake cleaner which was inserted via Intake Plenum IIRC! Z
I think it was performed for $99.00 @ Ford.


https://www.valvoline.com/en-asia/our-products/vps/vps-intake-cleaner


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If the Techron cleaning effects hold for 6 months/5k miles, then you are probably good.  If you have to repeat  often, then you have to dig deeper.

Maybe consider 5 oz MMO every fuelup see if that helps.
 
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