Fuel pump module

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Desmond1491

New member
I have A 2010 Lincoln MKS ...So my car won’t start and I have a error code for the fuel pump module so I changed the fuel pump module still the same issue... I was told to re flash my two keys a well... anything else that I might be missing ?
 
What did you change, the intank fuel pump or the driver module under/behind the rear seat?  If you did change the FPDM and still not able to start, clear codes and check again to see what comes back.

Does the engine crank at all or just keeps cranking?  what error code did you get?
 
I changed the one In the back seat the mechanic said it was a lost of Communication or signal.... the engine just keep cranking then show a oil light code but not start ... the only scan tool I have is a OBD reader I don’t owe the one like the mobile mechanic. When I use my scan tool I see no error codes
 
I just got a brand new battery two days ago and it won’t stay over 12 volts and I just charge the battery yesterday and it charged with no problem
 
Could be a faulty alternator if it does not stay over 12V, OR a parasitic draw on the battery.  Bad/loose terminals, corroded wiring (i.e., high resistance) can cause similar issues.  Codes are SUPPOSED to be set if the alternator is bad, but I don't think I have EVER heard anyone mention it on the SHO before they had to change it out.

So def do a CCA test on the battery and a test on the alternator to see how it is charging.  Still does not explain why the engine does not start.  Could be a bad pushbutton start issue.  It happens on other model lines for sure.  Bad fobs would not allow the car to crank at all I think, thats what it did on my Edge.  The PATS security light also blinked rapidly telling me no valid communication between the fob and PATS.

Cranking speed is > 150 rpm?

Just be sure to have the gas pedal pushed all the way down while cranking coz we don't want fuel dumped into the cats.  Try starting fluid, oldie but goldie method.

A failed/failing crank or cam sensor would hopefully set a code ...

By any chance, do you have
a) aftermarket remote start or antitheft devices
b) the throttle body sensor disconnected
 
I know I just brought a new car battery and it already dropped under 12 volts so im trickle charger it now ... one think I noticed is cam Shaft sensor the piece that you have to push to disconnect the sensor is broke but the connector is still attached.... a couple months ago I did have a code for my crankshaft....  in the picture I don’t know what sensor that is but the piece that you push to disconnect it is broke also
 
I believe that is the purge valve you are looking at?  below the wiring loom you are holding.  Should not be causing a voltage drop, though it definitely could cause starting issues, and should set P045x codes if so.
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OK because I’m not getting any codes but one thing is my battery keeps dropping and my gauge lights are Dimming  when I try to start the car
 
you should monitor battery voltage during the cranking effort, see how far it drops.  If it drops significantly below 11V, the car is having a hard time turning over.  Lights will dim but should not dim much at all.  I still suspect the alternator or charging circuit.
 
Well, all codes have thresholds to meet before they set, so technically, yes.  Crank sensor there is only the one, so more likely suspect, but if the car is cranking and RPMs are registering, I don't think is the issue.  Cam sensors, unlikely they both failed at the same time.  You can try swapping them, see if it makes a difference, but I see no reason to do it. 
 
I'd back up a bit. The original issue was a "cranks but won't start" complaint with a communication "U" code pointing at the FPCM correct?  Knowing what that "U" code is would be a big help. A dead data line can cause a lot of issues depending on the modules involved, possibly even keeping a module from going to sleep which could explain the battery draw issue.
Without a lot of equipment to work with, a quick and dirty check would be to connect a 12v incandessent style test light between the positive battery post and the positive cable (cable removed), key off, doors closed. If the light is on and "bright" it's a good indication that you have a high parasitic current draw issue that's pulling your battery voltage down. Leave it attached and watch it for several minutes to see if it ever dims down as a module that may be awake goes to sleep. All that's going to tell you though is that you do or don't have a high draw. I think that if you know, or could find out what "U" code was set that led you to replacing the FPCM, and what modules besides the PCM had codes it should help you find out what's going on. Modules need power, ground, and communication. If your FPCM has power and ground I'd start running checks on the data circuit involved and associated modules
 
It is worth checking the crank sensor, as it is what sends the tach data to the IPC

Pinpoint Test I: The Tachometer Is Inoperative

Normal Operation
The PCM uses the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor to measure the engine rpm. The PCM sends the data to Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) communication bus to command the tachometer gauge according to the data.

If the engine rpm data is invalid for 5 seconds or less or if the IPC does not receive the engine rpm data for 5 seconds or less, the IPC defaults the tachometer to the last setting, based upon the last known good rpm message. If the IPC does not receive the engine rpm data from the PCM for more than 5 seconds, the IPC sets DTC U0100:00 in continuous memory and defaults the tachometer to 0 rpm.

If the engine RPM data is invalid for more than 5 seconds, the IPC sets DTC U0401:68 and defaults the tachometer to 0 RPM.

NOTE: If DTC U0100:00 is set in the IPC , other observable symptoms may be an inoperative speedometer, temperature gauge or odometer.

This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following:

PCM concern
IPC
 
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