beaven69 said:
thanks for answering
Codes are p0443,p0010,p0020,p0457,p0135,p0155,
The car always ran very well , even with mil light on,
When I scan the car it throws me all these codes
P0443 indicates an evap circuit fault (
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0443)
P0010 indicates cam position sensor fault (
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0010) - if you have a tuner you can try and do a cam-relearn through the SCT as well as a KAM (Keep-alive-memory) reset, may help with this, or you may need to replace the sensor (could also be due to the VVT actuator you replaced - was a camshaft relearn procedure performed?)
P0020 indicates cam position sensor fault (
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0020); Refer to above, this is the other bank, essentally you are setting a fault for both cams (since we have DOHC with two camshafts)
P0457 indicates you have an actual EVAP leak (
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0457). This is most likely related to P0443, and fixing this may correct both or vice versa
P0135 indicates an oxygen sensor HEATER malfunction on bank one sensor one (bank one wideband)(
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135). This could be an issue with the sensor itself, an issue with the wiring, or it could simply be unplugged. Further more (not sure how the FORD logic is) it could be due to one of the other faults causing open loop vs. closed loop for emissions controls. Start by checking that the sensor is plugged in and there are no issues visible in the wiring.
P0155 indicates a HEATER malfunction on bank 2 sensor 1 (bank 2 wideband) (
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0155). Check the same things as above. If you have an extra wideband sensor, or feel the urge to spend some money to test something, you can buy a single good wideband, and test it in both bank positions, in fact, you could plug it in and leave it out of the exhaust itself, just plugged in on the ground (you would set other fault codes - such as a stuck lean error) but could see if the heater circuit is not functioning due to another fault.
Because both P0135 and P0155 are heater faults, I suspect they may be due to another fault (causing open loop to stay active rather than closed loop) as the heater status needs to be ON for closed loop operation.
If the car is staying in open loop, your MPG issue would also be a result to be expected, which further makes me believe that is the case.
Since you said you used an aftermarket, dorman sensor, for the VVT solenoid, I would start by replacing that with a motorcraft part. Clearing all codes and seeing what happens. If the VVT solenoid has a leak/was installed improperly that could also possibly be causing some of the issue, such as the EVAP codes.
Did you change oxygen sensor as well previously? If so, make sure you used to correct sensors. If you did use aftermarket O2 sensors previously, then I would change O2 sensors to motorcraft correct wideband sensors first, then asses the VVT solenoids accuracy.
Finally, were there any codes set before swapping the actuator? If so, were they cleared? If you clear these codes do they re-appear?
