GIGANTOREs Police Interceptor SHO Meth Sleeper

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GIGANTORE said:

Unfortunate but that is probably the best spot to be hit on the trunk. Just a trunk replacement and no new lights etc. However, if yours is tuxedo the paint is a pain to get right and could take a little bit. If they don't require a core, I would ask to keep your stock trunk (because if we were 10 or 15 years earlier they would just fix your stock trunk, and its definitely something that could be fixed, just not worth the time to fix now a days). They will want to get new trim, please stress NEW TRIM, because the trim does not like being removed and reinstalled.
 
They are having a hell of a time lining things back up. They are trying to tell me it has been hit before. But I don’t buy it. Going to look at it today.
 
SHOdded said:
PDR is probably not an option with this :(  Hope the taillights stay lined up with the new trunklid!

Can't PDR it for sure, but the dent itself could be put back to flush if someone took there time with it. Given that a trunklid for these cars costs a LOT of money for a trunk, at the current time, I would keep it if I could and spend some time to get it right to have a spare. Though since they aren't SHO specific, you may be able to get lucky and find one at a junkyard on a taxi or other regular taurus.

That said, self painting a tuxedo black body panel, hell no, that scares me quite a bit. A step below mystichrome in cost and difficulty but definitely a pain.


GIGANTORE said:
They are having a hell of a time lining things back up. They are trying to tell me it has been hit before. But I don’t buy it. Going to look at it today.

If the hit was at the right angle, it could have tweaked the frame in the rear. However, I would bet on the shop needing to take more time to get it lined up.
 
Just went to take a look at it. Dude about fell over when he saw me pull out a roll of tape and start marking all the flaws in the paint. The tail lights look better but aren’t perfect. I told them they need to keep trying. They are trying to tell me that they THINK it’s been hit before. Only because they found a shim in the bumper. Explained to them that manufacturers do it all the time. Was nice to see the car all cleaned up though.
 
Hey guys. Checking in. Been too busy to get anything done on the car. Still battling with Allstate to get the car fixed correctly.

I’m also still having issues with popping noises. I need to track down the part number for the subframe bolts in the front. I think they might be stretched to the point where they need to be replaced. Anyone have the part number for subframe bolts? Also need to tq specs if I can find them.

Last things I need to complete this build.
- Square away suspension noise/popping.
- Wrap down pipes.
- Install meth kit
- low profile 6x9’s
- Coat and install roll out rifle rack in trunk.
 
Spent some time searching for subframe bolts. I was only able to find ones for the previous gen. And I don’t think they can be substituted. Gonna call ford tomorrow.
 
SHOdded said:
Ford -W710714-S439
Bolt
M14 X 155MM , Crossmember

Require Quantity: 2
Package Quantity: 2
Base Number: HB1
Callout Name: HB1
$15.25  $8.85

Ford -W714157-S439
Bolt
M14 x 120 , Crossmember

Require Quantity: 2
Package Quantity: 4
Base Number: HB1
Callout Name: HB2
$4.25  $2.47

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2014-ford-taurus/front-susp-arms-stabilizer-x-member.html?Filter=(38591;30734;43021;28765)

Awesome. Thanks man. Looks like they are the same, front and rear.
 
Yeah, cant tell which one applies to you :(. But each pkt comes with 4 and is inexpensive, so i would get both and return what was not opened.
 
Just ordered front and back. Looks like
W714157-S439  Is for fronts
W710714-S439  Is for the rears

Now I just need to find the tq specs. Have a feeling I’m experiencing this due to the bolts being over torqued.
 
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