Got my kit (DONE) today

The relay connect directly battery pos and ground to body. Grey wire goes to fuse box and the other wire goes to controller.  I think, going purely off memory. Will get under my tomorrow and take some pic's.


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I'm on it. Gonna need some help, I'm going to try to get the pump and tanks mounted and bumper skirts ans wheels back on befor dark. Mounting pump to fender bracket rite now
 
Putting the bumper back on 1/2 hr before dark. One thing I see now, one reason for the necessity of a check valve is because the bottom of the pump is higher then the bottom of the meth tank
 
Hmmm, not sure why you feel that way. Hoping you have the same check valve I am talking about, the check is small brass piece female end male the other screws in the back of spray nozzle. The purpose at least in our application, is with out it the car will constantly 1. syphon meth 2. in hotter month meth will boil in fuel line and force it self out into the intake. This will flood the car and will crank for many seconds before start. And you will lose your prime. The pump is suppose to have a check valve built in it according to julio. But I highly doubt since the syphoning that occurs.
 
I thought the check valve was to prevent the meth from going back down the line to the pump. That's just what I THOUGHT and I don't put much stock in them

Anyway I'm done with the front half of the job (wheels back on just at dark). Need to put the nozzle in and wire her up still. I did fill the new WW tank and filled meth tank beyond low sensor for now.
 
crash712us said:
Hmmm, not sure why you feel that way. Hoping you have the same check valve I am talking about, the check is small brass piece female end male the other screws in the back of spray nozzle. The purpose at least in our application, is with out it the car will constantly 1. syphon meth 2. in hotter month meth will boil in fuel line and force it self out into the intake. This will flood the car and will crank for many seconds before start. And you will lose your prime. The pump is suppose to have a check valve built in it according to julio. But I highly doubt since the syphoning that occurs.
Click to expand...
Here the check vale inline before the 90deg turn.
55_25_08_13_3_42_06.jpeg
 
Two thing, Did you check your system for leaks by powering the pump. I use wind-shield wash (it's 15/85 METH). 1)Some of us had a leak at the METH tank because the instruction put the clamp around the brass but it's better on the inside on the rubber only. 2) A fix for the slow fill of the new wind shield wash, is adding a vent line from the bottom tank to the top tank.
55_27_01_14_2_56_52.jpeg
55_27_01_14_3_38_46.jpeg
55_27_01_14_3_39_21.jpeg
 
That looks just like my check valve. I did not check for leaks with pump on (nozzle and wires not installed) , except to fill WW and put some meth in the tank = no leaks on tank side. Knowing me I'll probably peel the skirts back after install is complete just to see if it's weeping at all

And I'm going to stick with the slow WW fill system, it will be ok seems how I almost never use it. The car is like 4 months old and when I worked on it yesterday the WW res was still full up to the cap
 
Going to finish install and retune tomorrow
Could I get answers on the lines with question marks
Especially
RELAY line #2 and #3
PAC line #4

Also if someone could read through my list and just see if it looks proper


PUMP three wires
1. Red / to PAC red / one of the three individual PAC wires
2. Black / to PAC black / one of the three individual PAC wires
3. Bare / to PAC wht / one of the three individual PAC wires. ?????????

RELAY four wires
1. Lg, red from shunt with bolt fitting crimped on / to battery poss term. ????????
2. Red on relay, 12g and long / to PAC org (fused)12g / one of a two wire harness. ???????
3. Gray / to fuse box / year specific / 2013 sho. ???????
4. Black / ground to chassis

PAC seven wires remaining
(( six wire harness. ))
1. Green / to 3bar map
2. Brown / to LED brown. ???????
3. Orange / to LED red.  ???????
4. Red / to Acc, where.  ??????
5. Violet / aux input ( not going to use).  ????
6. Gray / aux input ( not going to use).  ????

(( two wire harness )). One wire remaining
1. Black / ground to chassis
 
Finishing now
Still need help, let me narrow it down to two questions maybe 3

1.  Gray wire from relay?  I'm guessing fues #70 and how to attach? Just pull fues and pinch wires into slot?

2.  Red from PAC (small one, in 6 wire harness that says +12 out accessory) somewhere different then the gray relay I'm assuming? Where and how to attach?

One puzzling thing in bpd's how-to is, he says there should be another wire going from relay to map? I thought the only wire going to the 3bar was the green from the PAC

PUMP three wires
1. Red / to PAC red / one of the three individual PAC wires
2. Black / to PAC black / one of the three individual PAC wires
3. Bare / to PAC wht / one of the three individual PAC wires. ?????????

RELAY four wires
1. Lg, red from shunt with bolt fitting crimped on / to battery poss term. ????????
2. Red on relay, 12g and long / to PAC org (fused)12g / one of a two wire harness. ???????
3. Gray / to fuse box / year specific / 2013 sho. ???????
4. Black / ground to chassis

PAC seven wires remaining
(( six wire harness. ))
1. Green / to 3bar map
2. Brown / to LED brown. ???????
3. Orange / to LED red.  ???????
4. Red / to Acc, where.  ??????
5. Violet / aux input ( not going to use).  ????
6. Gray / aux input ( not going to use).  ????

(( two wire harness )). One wire remaining
1. Black / ground to chassis
 
Sorry Mike it has taken me so long to get back with you.

question 1. Gray wire from relay goes to fuse block which one for 2013 I do not know, you need a source that power on and off with the ignition.

Here is my schematic, with my notes.


Relay switch get power directly from battery and grounded gray signal relay from ignition on power. The other lead should go to PAC controller. Also note there is schematic on relay.


This what you should use when tapping into fuse box. Its called a fuse tap. Also there should be another type of fuse tap supplied with your kit its a small metal thing that you can crimp your wire into and slips of the fuse.
 
Did you read my 911. Just so I can rest a little better / is that what you would expect from running a 3bar without a 3bar tune?

All done with install but still waiting for tune. It's all installed and wired up but I have not hooked up battery and relay to ign fuse. Also the map is wired to PAC but I have the 2bar in for now

I do have a check engine light on (probably from that 3bar) how can I turn it off? Will my torque app do it or the mycal tuner?
 
One mor part to install. Still need to tap nozzle in. I can see where some have installed nozzle. 5 or 6 o'clock in line with that sensor or even just in front. I wonder where LMS puts them? Isn't that a air temp sensor. Wouldn't placement greatly affect engine management,
 
Today was the first time I got to test new tune, meth with 3bar

Drive around, on hwy when I giver her throttle runs fine and get red the green light. Seemed to work fine while cruzing but didn't really go full throttle and hold it while on the hwy

Then I tried a full launch from dead stop. She started popping like the dickens. So I let off. Only tried one more time and did the same thing
Any thought?

You think it's he meth or the tune?
 
Mikesb said:
Today was the first time I got to test new tune, meth with 3bar

Drive around, on hwy when I giver her throttle runs fine and get red the green light. Seemed to work fine while cruzing but didn't really go full throttle and hold it while on the hwy

Then I tried a full launch from dead stop. She started popping like the dickens. So I let off. Only tried one more time and did the same thing
Any thought?

You think it's he meth or the tune?
Click to expand...
The meth does not kick in until hi RPM's But the Meth Tune will give you more torque off the line. And if lunch to hard it will tire pop.
 
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