guys with snow performance stage 3

scoles92

New member
has your kit ever had any problems delivering meth as it should?

Mine is set to come on at 10 psi and full on at 12 psi. had it at the track and saw over 20 psi before it would come on. when i first had it installed it would freeze during a WOT run and still be pumping at 100 power when i came to a stop. had to shut the car off to get it to stop.

obviously thinking the controller is faulty so i'm dealing with snow performance right now to warranty it. luckily it hasn't been a year since i bought it otherwise the tech said he'd be happy to give me a discounted price on a new one for $235  :blowup:
 
I'd double check your boost source (what the boost hose is connected to), and also check your source balance.  Snow has Stage 3 controllers that use a mix of boost along with fuel rail pressure, injector pulse width, etc. to determine the proper amount of meth injection.  If you want it based on boost only, set your controller it to 100% boost.  If you have Snow model 320 or 3200 and want to also use fuel rail pressure, check that the blue FRP wire from the controller is securely connected to the blue/brown wire at the ECU. 
 
My controller has boost and frp but I have all the settings set to boost. I have the ratio to 99 boost/1 frp because it didn't let me go to 100 boost / 0 frp
 
Sounds like a bad controller, that is scary that is just stayed on! I have stage 2 but have not run the wire for the LED to tell me when its on yet, guess I better get on that!
 
Yeah I was not a fan of that at all! Thankfully it only happened a few times then it seemed to start working.. Then it stopped again..

Crossing my fingers that when I send it to snow performance they figure out what's going on and send me a new controller. So far snow hasn't been very helpful I sent them numerous emails that they didn't answer. Calling seemes to be the only way to get a hold of them.
 
You guys that installed your kits have any advice on how to remove the controller to send to snow? I was hoping there would be a connector on the back of the controller or somewhere before it gets routed through my dash into the engine bay. I'd rather not tear my dash apart haha
 
I guess it all depends how they ran it. Mine would be a piece of cake to remove. Did they tell you which wires they did not use?  I believe I only used three wires and the vacuum line. I did mine myself though. I wonder if you have something in you vacuum line. I only go off the boost as I didn't wanna try n splice in for injector pulse/width. Hope ya get it figured out. I also don't really agree with your setting either. There's absolutely no ramp up.  It's either on or its off. Just my opinion.  Mine comes on at 50% @6lbs and reaches full at 14lbs. I suppose it may not matter as these little snails build boost fast anyways.  But hopefully you get er figured out.  I've never had any problems with mine.
 
your probably the 5th person to question me on the boost/wm ramp up. its how torrie had me set it im not sure why.

mine seems to have more than 3 wires coming out of the back of it. so would it be best to find the nearest place with a connector i could disconnect? id like to just cut it off about 4 inches behind the controller and send it on its way haha :thumb:
 
My Stage 3 controller has a white connector about 3-4 feet from the controller.  Unless your installer spliced some wires in between, that would be your best bet for disconnection.
 
Ah ok thanks! I'll admit that I haven't really dug that far into it to know if it's there but it makes sense that it would be.
 
The controller should arrive at snow performance on Monday. ill post on here when i hear something from them. I did end up cutting the wires but it will be easy to splice the new controller (hopefully i get one) back in. just had to open the controller up and disconnect the vacuum line.
 
Me and snow are not getting along very well at the moment..

The way it was installed I had 4 wires and 1 vacuum line coming out the back of the controller. It was routed through my dash so I asked if I could just cut the controller cut the harness off and send the controller in to them. They said that was fine. I opened up the controller and removed the vacuum line because obviously I can't just solder that back together. Now they are saying I tampered with it so they won't warranty it. The controller hasn't worked right since day one and I really don't want to pay for a new one. Any advice?
 
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