Originally posted by ShoBoat
This mod has taken me quite some time to complete, I sourced the LED bulbs locally and the color was always off. They all had quite a bit of blue in the bulbs. Some almost to the point of being purple?? So I mucked around with this for a few weeks. I even changed the HID's to 6000K just to get it to match. No dice as the LED lower markers are about a 5000K color. Just my 2 cents if you want to match your OEM 4300K HID and the OEM lower LED markers get the ones I have listed. I literately went through 3 sets of switch back bulbs before these.
The running lights are really bright. almost like adding a set of fog lights. Also on approach when you unlock the car they light up the areas in front of the car really well.
The Switchbacks are VLEDS 5000K 3157 Type 2 dual color bulbs
The Corners are 5000K 194 Bulbs
You will also need a pair of load resistors to eliminate hyper-flash. I went with 8 ohm 50W but 6 ohm 50W is more readily available and will work too.
The install is fairly simple (sort of lol)
The switchbacks are easier to install and you can access from inside the engine compartment. Driver side is piece of cake. Remove the socket and plug in the bulb. You need to use wire taps to link the load resistor to the 2 outside wires on the harness. I would double check with a volt meeter which is ground and the turn signal. Mount the load resistor to metal. I mounted mine to the inner fender wells with Loctite 3873 is a fast curing, high-conductivity, adhesive. And that seemed to work well. On the passenger side it was a little harder to get the wire taps on. I removed the tube going to the throttle body to give me more space to work.
The side markers are a PITA!. You will have to remove the wheel and the plastic outer fender well. Once you have those off now begins the cursing. If your hands are small enough you can reach up and grab the socket and twist it out. My hands are not that small (what was ford thinking?) Instead I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to just twist the socket enough to break to free. Then I was able to get my fingers on it and remove it. Installation is also a PITA, you have to insert the bulb and socket had just get it to grab with your hand. Once you do then and only then use the pliers carefully. You could break the housing if not careful. Done, just put if back together and enjoy!!
I'll add the links to the products below.
http://www.vleds.com/5k-type-2-dual-color-changing-white-amber-switchback-42-high-power-led-turn-signal-bulbs-3157-4157-1-pair.html
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/194-168-158-led/5k-white-led/5k-white-10-led-light-bulbs-194-158-168-2825-1-pair.html
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/led-load-equalizer-resistors-turn-signal-blinker-fix-1-pair.html
http://www.henkel.com/fullproductlist-electronics.htm?countryCode=us&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=90000000057&categoryspecificredDotUID=00000002KJ
This mod has taken me quite some time to complete, I sourced the LED bulbs locally and the color was always off. They all had quite a bit of blue in the bulbs. Some almost to the point of being purple?? So I mucked around with this for a few weeks. I even changed the HID's to 6000K just to get it to match. No dice as the LED lower markers are about a 5000K color. Just my 2 cents if you want to match your OEM 4300K HID and the OEM lower LED markers get the ones I have listed. I literately went through 3 sets of switch back bulbs before these.
The running lights are really bright. almost like adding a set of fog lights. Also on approach when you unlock the car they light up the areas in front of the car really well.
The Switchbacks are VLEDS 5000K 3157 Type 2 dual color bulbs
The Corners are 5000K 194 Bulbs
You will also need a pair of load resistors to eliminate hyper-flash. I went with 8 ohm 50W but 6 ohm 50W is more readily available and will work too.
The install is fairly simple (sort of lol)
The switchbacks are easier to install and you can access from inside the engine compartment. Driver side is piece of cake. Remove the socket and plug in the bulb. You need to use wire taps to link the load resistor to the 2 outside wires on the harness. I would double check with a volt meeter which is ground and the turn signal. Mount the load resistor to metal. I mounted mine to the inner fender wells with Loctite 3873 is a fast curing, high-conductivity, adhesive. And that seemed to work well. On the passenger side it was a little harder to get the wire taps on. I removed the tube going to the throttle body to give me more space to work.
The side markers are a PITA!. You will have to remove the wheel and the plastic outer fender well. Once you have those off now begins the cursing. If your hands are small enough you can reach up and grab the socket and twist it out. My hands are not that small (what was ford thinking?) Instead I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to just twist the socket enough to break to free. Then I was able to get my fingers on it and remove it. Installation is also a PITA, you have to insert the bulb and socket had just get it to grab with your hand. Once you do then and only then use the pliers carefully. You could break the housing if not careful. Done, just put if back together and enjoy!!
I'll add the links to the products below.
http://www.vleds.com/5k-type-2-dual-color-changing-white-amber-switchback-42-high-power-led-turn-signal-bulbs-3157-4157-1-pair.html
http://www.vleds.com/bulb/194-168-158-led/5k-white-led/5k-white-10-led-light-bulbs-194-158-168-2825-1-pair.html
http://www.vleds.com/resistors/led-load-equalizer-resistors-turn-signal-blinker-fix-1-pair.html
http://www.henkel.com/fullproductlist-electronics.htm?countryCode=us&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=90000000057&categoryspecificredDotUID=00000002KJ
