"How-To" End Links and Traction Bars!!!! - First-SHO

[SHOdded]

Posted 21 January 2013 - 05:13 PM
First of, these are in the experimental stage and before I offer up all details, I need to make sure these will work without failure as I had to change a few things from the units I purchased.

There were some bolt changes, spacers that I made and welding will need to be done for the installation. I am just showing the parts and temporary install as the welding will be done later this week.

I have not worked on the rear end links yet until the front is complete, so there may be modifications that need to be made from the photos shown.

I hope this works out good for us and will give more details later.

Front End Link

Traction Bar

Rear End Link

Front End Link Comparo

The front hole on the lower control arm is the location of the traction bar mount.

Front End Link Installed

Traction Bar Temp Install

 

[SHOdded]

Posted 06 July 2013 - 01:55 PM
OK, so here is my writeup.

Traction Bars
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=77&idcategory=21

Must replace control arm bolt with ½-13 x 4” bolt. I used stainless.

Mount front helm joint with bushings to control arm first. Align traction bar attached to bracket for proper weld point and then weld bracket to frame. Adjust traction bar with suspension in the ride position. Do not over tighten.

Front End Links
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=81&idcategory=21

Must replace bolts with http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6774

I also had to make some bushings for the strut mount and the sway-bar mount. I have extras, for those who take on the project.

Rear End Links – No Modification, just mount, adjust and tighten
http://racinglineperformance.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=85&idcategory=21

Limit Straps – For use ONLY at the track and must be attached at the track.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/RA18114.html Straps
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC510050&Store_Code=PC&search=clevis&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high Clevis

The clevis is the only thing you will use, as room will not allow the use of a pin with retainer. I made two new pins to be tack welded within the clevis. Purchase kit below and cut two pieces 3” long and heat wrap clevis to strap. Be sure to cover entire clevis. This will protect springs from rub damage.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202204318?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=cpgi-hs-splice-kit-1%2F0&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202204318%23.USjW0qX_Sao

Drill out the upper hole to allow some play, about 5/8” as you want the strap to give when turning. Apply dip coat to the hole to minimize clevis thread damage.

Replace the factory lower strut bolt with a modified 10.9 M14 x 2.0 120 long https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=11113742 The threads need to be ¾ longer, so you will need to take a thread die and do that yourself.

Use the same stock lock nut to secure bolt. Add a M14 x 2.0 nut for space, washer then limit strap, washer and new lock nut.

Bolt the lower limit strap into position, then feed the clevis through the new hole. Add harden washer and nut. At this time mount wheels and let rest on tires. Tighten nut until desired squat is achieved, then add second lock nut. Note, the clevis will have to be cut in order to shut the hood. You have 5/8” clearance from the top of the strut mount to the hood shock support. If you remove the hood shock support you have 1 5/8” clearance, so cut for your needs.

 

[TimmyATL]

So my question is this modification worth money? Right now I can brake torque the car between 2000 and 2100 and with a decent prepped track I can cut between a 1.74 and 1.76 60' time. Will this allow me to come up on the converter to the stall of 2400 and have the same amount of grip. As these cars are heavy I know every pound counts. Thanks for the write up and your time.

 

[SHOdded]

What year is your SHO.  Assuming its not stock, correct?  Please update your signature

Brakes need to be able to hold the car to stall speed.  AFAIK, only the 2013+ stock are really up to the task.  Aftermarket brakes can enhace this capability.

With the changes above, you should definitely have more grip than at any comparable rpm.  Note the limit straps to control weight transfer.  The end links help you dial in alignment, but I think they are more useful in drifting or autocross than in a straight line.

If you make these changes, you will have to dial in your new "optimum" setup.

 

[bpd1151]

The original owner of that SHO, who developed this mod, and authored the tutorial on it, found out eventually,  through real world application, that it resulted in no improvement.

A separate, former SHO owner, who happens to live not far away from that OP, had also tried bags in/on the rear axle, after learning the traction bars didn't help, and the bags weren't of any improvement either.

I knew/still know both owners. Neither whom are active here, or elsewhere, as it pertains to the SHO.

Odd thing those theories turn out to be..... real world testing often dispels what one would think, would be a logical solution.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[sholxgt]

I suspect that the two things that would help the most are...
1. stickier tires
2. locking differentials

In my mind, it makes the most sense to start with light wheels and drag radials.  Would be really cool if we had more aftermarket support and had the option of front and rear limited slip type differentials.