How to Fix? At WOT from standstill lose traction around 30mph-40mph.

Dutchsho11

New member
Hello,

Ok guys I do not know what I need to fix but I keep loosing traction when I launch and have to let off gas for a second or two, very annoying! My tires are still very good, I do have stock suspension and almost have 50,000miles. It's a 2011 SHO PP.  Please any suggestions would be thankful.
 
It is the front suspension. But nothing fills wrong still handles great not sitting any lower in the front, no noises. My ass end dips down and my front raises and then I loose traction and I tac out a couple times if I don't release the gas. If need stiffer suspension what would be the best option with little to no issues? 
 
It is recommended to replace suspension related components such as shocks/struts every 50k, and your post indicates you are at that threshold in mileage. Beyond that, a complete inspection of other related components should be performed and replaced as needed.

That said, the stock suspension was never that great to begin with. Several have experienced component failures on the rear's specifically.

Moving along, there is plenty of weight transfer from the front, to rear axle with the stock setup. Most pronounced when launching it WOT from stop, or slow mph conditions as you describe.

The H&R's will offer you improvement over stock. The Megan Coil Overs are an improvement over the H&R's.

Eibach's are no longer available for our platform due to lackluster sales. They would've fit right in with the H&R's as far as improvement over stock.

Others have tried traction bars and bags, and did not find any improvement in reducing weight transfer and/or any improvement in traction.

Finally, you have to remember, although our platform is marketed as being AWD,  it is still FWD biased. Approximately 70% of the power equation is pushed through the front axle, and the remaining approximate 30% is dumped to the rear axle.

So you're fighting an uphill battle as it stands.

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Thank you for the insight. So if I do H&R sprigs what Struts should I go with? And if I go stock strut will it not function right b/c the springs are lower then stock? Sorry never lowered a car before. I had a 2010 Vette and it was low enough and never had to touch the suspension. 
 
Are you in 2nd gear at that point?  You have traction control all the way off?  Stock tune or ... ?  Only lifting up on the throttle and the event happens?  Sounds like a torque mgmt issue, system not reacting quickly enough.  But could also be trans/PTU
 
Unfortunately the closest you will get to a nonoem strut will be if you get a coilover setup, available from Megan racing.
 
Air suspension?? Stock PP suspension. LMS 93x-race tune. No still in 1st gear. Just started after I added the LMS tune. I am not leaking any fluid everything is dry underneath and I would now she stays in my garage.
 
I've herd that their are issues with the Megan suspension and do not want to spend the money on issues. I saw KYB makes strut's but they are only for the rear. So what can I use for the front? Sorry everyone if I'm nuking this but I only want to put the best on my car and only want to spend the money once.
 
Honestly I do not know. Never checked. Just take it to the dealer and they put Nitrogen in them and off I go. I will check them and see in the morning after it sits all night. Never thought of that. Thanks
 
If I'm wrong please correct me. Only going off what I read and was told. I heard the suspension has to be moded to go on not a direct bolt-on. Also heard their was some issues with alignment but have read that that is fixed now. And it is not that easy to adjust the ride height and get it dialed in. 
 
Megan's were a breeze for me to install. They were/are direct bolt on.

No issues for alignment for me, but then again, I am still running the adjustable camber bolts in the rear from when I had the H&R's.

Some have found the adj. cam bolts aren't necessary, as they take full advantage of the slot on the rear upper spindles. But some still need the bolts regardless. Myself included.

Not sure where you heard that adjusting the ride height was/is difficult? Megan supplies wrenches with their kits, and it makes raising/lowering the car fairly simple. I mean of course other than the mere physical labor involved to do so, but still, not an issue I experienced by any means.

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Thank you for the information boss man. bpd1151 what year is yours? So is that what you recommend for my little issue? And where did you buy yours? I just don't want to waist money I'm sure you fill the same.
 
Mine's a 2010, job 2 production.

I don't have a recommendation for a vendor to purchase from, as most will price match anyhow. Shop around.

The Megan's helped my traction issues significantly.

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Just wanted to mention that tires are a pretty important aspect here. Regardless of if your tires are new/properly aired up if they are a subpar tire/design they will not hook as well.

For example, my mustang makes MAYBE 200 horsepower at the crank currently, full suspension and gears, it can hook for days with proper tires. I put cheap nankangs on it and spun all around town. Went back to a nice BFGoodrich and no spinning at all.

On my 04 F150 that I traded for the SHO, I could spin the stock goodyear tires in reasonably dry conditions while in 4x2, even with decent tread life. Upgraded to a more aggressive treaded tire and never spun throughout the life of the tire.

Also, temperature is a major factor. My SHO hooks pretty well in 60+ degree weather, especially after a little driving to warm the compound. It always spins on a brake boost launch, no matter temperature, especially with traction control off. However, normal driving in cooler temperatures, the traction control light is pretty much consistently expected if I lay into it.
 
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