bpd1151 said:
derfdog15 said:
bpd1151 said:
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
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I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Ha! Well then that's the root of it..... lack of patience.
You mean to tell me you'd endure driving 1hr in each direction, to/from the track, but you can't stomach 5min worth of deflating/inflating.
C'mon man, surely you can't be serious. Lol.
Z's spot on, 60's are crucial. Take advantage of every lil bit you can. Especially when acquiring those sought after slips my friend!
Mine was a DD for 6yrs and I've driven longer than you to get back/forth to tracks. Do it derf!
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I understand that '60 foot is crucial, .1 in the '60 is ~.3 in the quarter. But if I am airing down for the track is my time really representative of street performance? I think not. I am never going to run 22 psi on the streets while I DD, so while it would cut a better best time, its not truly representative. Keeping it in its street form gives me representative times as it is basically just a controlled street environment (especially since tracks are generally unprepped for test/tune nights)
ZSHO said:
derfdog15 said:
ZSHO said:
derfdog15 said:
bpd1151 said:
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z
The PP air compressor comes with the same warning as a "donut" tire. Do not exceed 55mph etc. IDK how I feel about running tires on the highway using that.
I was referring to the air compressor and not the tire sealant. Z
I understand that Z, but the warning is there right on the compressor, it also takes AGES to air a tire up with that compressor. That coupled with my above statement, and I think for now I'd rather just run it in street trim. It is the same as pulling seats (passenger/rear) or other interior parts for a track day, better times will result, but you don't run just a driver seat on the street for most people. If I was pushing for fasted SHO 1/4 mile time then weight reduction like seat removal and airing down would be worth it, but pushing for street performance metric results it just isn't worth it to me.
And for both of you guys, I am just purely not comfortable driving the tires at 23 PSI or so more than a few miles if absolutely necessary, and the track I generally go to I am able to get 10-20 passes in, so that would be a lot of strain on tires IMO. One day, ill get a set of drag rims/tires for the car, and at that point (I know it will take a bit longer than airing down/up) lug those (pun intended) to the track, swap at the track, run the car, swap back, go home. OR I'll finally buy a truck again, and just trailer the SHO to track days (Since I'll probably have to do that for my mustang when its done).
Back on topic a bit though, OP, the A/S tires are wonderful for street driving but the BFG really isn't a ultra high performance tire. I love it as a DD tire, but for the track a nice Summer tire is your best bet. You will never get the best performance possible on an A/S tire in a drag race setting. If you decide to track it keep in mind prepped vs. unprepped tracks. If the track is prepped I would bet you cut better times (since you will likely be able to hook easily), unprepped tracks, expect to spin.
The bandaids here are springs/coilover and/or upgraded tires/airing tires down and learning how the car launches/behaves so you can adjust your tip in strategy for maximum hook or adjust your launch so that you get the most out of it (ie. my car spins HARD if you launch at 2500rpm, and cuts much worst times than launching at 1800-2000rpm). Also keep in mind, especially in a drag race scenario, you are maximizing torque/hp output from the start so once you hook you will stay hooked (ie, not spin mid way through the track), in a street scenario if you are just casually driving and then mat the pedal you go from say 25% utilization to 100% real quick which is why you spin at tip in, your making less than 50% torque before you floor it and go to max torque almost instantly.
