"How-To" SHO and Flex convert to vent to atmosphere with factory blow off valves

SHOdded said:
Well, I was thinking of the bearing scar tests.  If the oil has a better design, it is providing better protection from wear.  Which implies smoother running turbos, engine bearings, camshafts, etc.  Even if MC is not the best, the full syn should be better than their syn blend, but true, yet to find an actual direct comparison (looking).  If you are constantly exercising the twins, best to go with the best, no doubt.  But for "sedate"/normal DD, MC full syn should be fine, theoretically :)
Definitely agree.... Double my cost/ quart... Much cheaper than new turbos!
 
BiGMaC said:
SHOdded said:
Hopefully the full syn will help protect the turbos better as well!

Gonna disagree here Manu... No test I am aware of shows any better lubrication with syn vs hydrocarbon from the earth.....
But by going to Amsoil full syn you can get the lowest oil volatility.... Vaporized oil is bad with the recirc BOVs from the hotpipes to the intake like we have on the 3.5 GDI  engine.... So I'd also recommend BOV to VTA to cut down on this .... Even with a catch can.

So full syn will help a lot to prevent/slow coking intake valves and turbo blades... But no increased lubrication.  Ford syn is not bad, but much worse than the best.

Synthetic Oil is less susceptible to coking than conventional oil , a major plus in a GDI engine
                   
In a turbocharged engine it is much better than conventional as it does not lose its viscosity at high temp extremes. 

Conventional oil will start to sludge while the synthetics will hold at those temperatures
 
This absolutely doesn't work on a 2013 SHO. The bovs bleed out all the pressure during acceleration for some reason so you can't build boost. SIGH. Would have been sweet if it did work.
 
polskifacet said:
This absolutely doesn't work on a 2013 SHO. The bovs bleed out all the pressure during acceleration for some reason so you can't build boost. SIGH. Would have been sweet if it did work.
That shouldn't be the case. The blow off valves only open during a throttle let off under boost. Either way the air gets blown into the air intake piping, which isn't under pressure. Whether it is routed to atmosphere or the intake piping, nothing should change. So if this is the case you are either doing something wrong or something is wrong with your car.
 
I will make sure the bov electrical connectors didn't fall off or something but this issue wasn't present when the bovs were recirc.
 
polskifacet said:
This absolutely doesn't work on a 2013 SHO. The bovs bleed out all the pressure during acceleration for some reason so you can't build boost. SIGH. Would have been sweet if it did work.
My 2013 says otherwise. If you're bleeding pressure during acceleration something else is going on.

Wilson

 
Sorry dudes, thanks for the quick response. I forgot to connect the little vacuum tube since I removed the whole intake pipe to get to the rear bov.
 
Can anyone confirm our BOVS only open upon throttle closure? I was reading some recirculating BOVS will open slightly under vacuum since it is intended to be recirculating.

So there aren't any gains on the dyno? Would VTA help reduce hot air going back into the system? What about decrease in boost, it n would be the same as stock?
 
Finally got around to doing this a few days ago. I love it! Instructions were spot on. Did have a little difficulty with the rear clamps but was able to rotate and remove them with some channel locks.
 
FearlessAZ said:
Finally got around to doing this a few days ago. I love it! Instructions were spot on. Did have a little difficulty with the rear clamps but was able to rotate and remove them with some channel locks.
Sound clips!!!
 
FearlessAZ said:
Finally got around to doing this a few days ago. I love it! Instructions were spot on. Did have a little difficulty with the rear clamps but was able to rotate and remove them with some channel locks.
I recall when doing mine a few yrs back that the rear clamp was facing the firewall making the procedure that much harder for removal and guess ford did it for a reason, enjoy. Z
 
That is basically how both mine were. The front took less than 5 minutes. The back one took probably a good 20-30 minutes and an urban dictionary on modern curse words.

I will try to see if I can get video tomorrow. She has been sitting the last couple of weeks (trying not to put so many miles on her and driving about once a week). I will be taking her out to watch Barrett Jackson tomorrow and there is plenty of open road and highway during that drive.
 
ZSHO said:
I recall when doing mine a few yrs back that the rear clamp was facing the firewall making the procedure that much harder for removal and guess ford did it for a reason, enjoy. Z
I highly doubt it was done to make field removal more difficult; more for production expediency.

Most likely reason being that it made off-line subassembly much quicker as the operator would have a much easier time installing the clamp in that orientation.

I got a set of these and had my rear BOV mod done in less than 5 minutes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CeoFybAZA24VP





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
FearlessAZ said:
The back one took probably a good 20-30 minutes and an urban dictionary on modern curse words.
LOL!  Enjoy the show, and bring us back pics/vids from the event!
 
MiWiAu said:
ZSHO said:
I recall when doing mine a few yrs back that the rear clamp was facing the firewall making the procedure that much harder for removal and guess ford did it for a reason, enjoy. Z
I highly doubt it was done to make field removal more difficult; more for production expediency.

Most likely reason being that it made off-line subassembly much quicker as the operator would have a much easier time installing the clamp in that orientation.

I got a set of these and had my rear BOV mod done in less than 5 minutes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CeoFybAZA24VP





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That tool was awesome. I used this today and the rear clamps came off in literally 5 seconds, easier than the front clamp near the airbox.
 
I was going to go VTA before I did the charge pipes, but couldn't get the back clamp off, so i just waited till I did the charge pipes, and ended up having to twist the chargepipe to be able to get to the clamp.

Nice to see that there is a tool to make it easier for others.
 
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