Knock Sensors stopped responding and OAR reset

Been hammering on it today trying to replicate the OAR/Knock issue. Seems to be gone... amazes me how sensitive these components are to voltage deltas.. Honestly, if I was monitoring my car like I do with my SCT programmer, probably wouldn't have noticed it much till I went to the track...loosing 12+ degrees of spark is however pretty noticeable...
 
stealbluesho said:
Been hammering on it today trying to replicate the OAR/Knock issue. Seems to be gone... amazes me how sensitive these components are to voltage deltas.. Honestly, if I was monitoring my car like I do with my SCT programmer, probably wouldn't have noticed it much till I went to the track...loosing 12+ degrees of spark is however pretty noticeable...
Click to expand...
Do you have a log or just watching handheld?
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
stealbluesho said:
Been hammering on it today trying to replicate the OAR/Knock issue. Seems to be gone... amazes me how sensitive these components are to voltage deltas.. Honestly, if I was monitoring my car like I do with my SCT programmer, probably wouldn't have noticed it much till I went to the track...loosing 12+ degrees of spark is however pretty noticeable...
Click to expand...
Do you have a log or just watching handheld?
Click to expand...

It was happening randomly, so I never was able to get a log... but the hand held has min/max and nothing looked out of line? It wasn't like there was a massive KR event and the car went into limp mode per se... I WAS initially worried that something let loose and the ECU could't read the timing correctly so it disabled the knock sensors and reset OAR!  HOWEVER, I noticed my LTFT's were also reset back to 1 for all loads.. so it made more sense that something was resetting the KAM.. just didn't suspect the battery until I posted on here...

Another interesting thing was that in lugging situations (I live at the base of the mountains so its EXTREMELY hilly where I live) at 50+ mph (or 6th gear)  it felt like the car was struggling a bit.. however, with the new battery that seems to have abated as well... dunno.. could be placebo but the car is running A LOT better..
 
Freaking weird... happened again.. car is running better.. not sure why my OAR keeps resetting... battery obviously needed to be replaced...

at this point I believe I am chasing an electric issue..
 
The chaffing would make sense... I was doing some testing and noticed that the OAR reset and the P0020 code happened at the same time... when I moved the gear selector from D to R... the gear change made the car jump a little (I am on a hill) and that's when everything happened...

I don't have a fuse 67 in the fuse box next to the battery...

I am also getting acid build up on the positive terminal on my new battery... this is screaming like I have short happening somewhere...
 
Sometimes a pin in the wiring loom gets knocked loose.  FoMoCo was the first to mention this happening, albeit on a Gen 5.
 
On the front cam cover, check the vct plug and follow the wire back. Mine had no slack and was chafing on the block.

The wiring in these cars is disgraceful....



 
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