Leaky charge air pipe - clamp?

[metroplex]

Anyone know how to tighten those plastic slip clamps they use on the charge piping?
Here's a picture of one for an earlier SHO:

But the charge pipe on the rear of the engine on my 2014 is covered in that oily vapor residue right at that plastic clamp on the right of the picture (where it connects the hard plastic charge pipe to the rubber hose attached to the turbo). How do I tighten it up or replace the clamp?

 

[derfdog15]

The hose is known to split, but you would need to take it off the car to see.

Best bet is a new charge pipe OR upgrading to EPP hotpipes.

 

[metroplex]

So the rubber hose itself is known to split, or is it the plastic charge pipe that splits in that area?
How do I remove/tighten/replace that plastic clamp?

The greasy residue is pretty much all around the seam where the plastic charge pipe meets the rubber hose.

 

[MiWiAu]

Replied in your other thread too, but those plastic molded clamps are not serviceable.

You can cut through them with a Dremel cutoff wheel. I went about 90% through and finished it off by using a flat blade screwdriver. A good twist will separate remaining plastic and you can replace it with a hose clamp of your choice.


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[metroplex]

Thanks Mike! Any idea what size clamp I would need?

 

[MiWiAu]

Thanks Mike! Any idea what size clamp I would need?

I don't recall offhand, I'd have to go measure. I assume the charge pipe diameters are the same between the SHO and Explorer? My guess is 2-2.5", but I'll need to verify that.


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[metroplex]

I took it off today, it's about 1.75" at the charge pipe and 1.5" at the turbo. The coupler hose is 3.19" in length. Most of the silicone couplers I've found on the web are 3" length, so that's a tad too short.

The stock factory black bands are actually just plastic. They have a V-form so they grip the 2nd raised portion of the charge pipe. I think this was just loose and allowed a lot of the gunk to come out under boost. Once I used a new liner clamp, the vacuum leak sound I was hearing at the firewall is now gone, but another hissing sound is somewhere in the engine compartment.

I used a dremel wheel and didn't realize the bands aren't completely smooth underneath (where it touches the hose). It's more of a concave design to fit the pipe better, so it's actually thinner than it looks. A fast cut is all that's needed. I went a tad too deep and hit maybe 1mm of the hose. Just use a screwdriver to slip directly into the slit and crack it apart.

I also bought a new throttle body cap for the motor and used a hose clamp and vacuum cap to cover that section. Like I assumed, that was a vacuum leak as well. For those that no longer have a cap, that means the throttle body shaft seal (or another seal) is no longer functional, allowing air to go into the intake manifold through the shaft - or allows air to exit under boost. This is probably how the caps pop out. I can see this vacuum cap collapse at idle.

I can see why Ford went with speed density for their EcoBoost engines. With all the vacuum/boost leaks going on, a traditional MAF system would go nuts.

 

[metroplex]

I re-installed the crankcase breather tube so my PCV system is back to stock essentially. I also tightened the hose clamps a bit for the rear pipe. I found the factory torque spec is 44 in-lb, so it's basically hand tight using a 1/4" ratchet. It seems to have stopped weeping/seeping oil for over a week now. I'm not sure if it was the combination of tightening the clamp and installing the breather tube or something else.

I did read more about turbo design, and the oiling system for the shaft/bearings is basically gravity drained. There are no seals for modern turbo shafts, just piston rings/snap rings that help prevent oil seepage/leakage. It's possible the breather tube is now allowing proper crankcase pressure for the turbo oil routing??