MKS sub with pictures

[Ryan02Stang]

Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.

I have a ported box, that I was using in another car that I'm planning on using in my MKS.

I have a Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 12 inch sub, along with an LC2I 2-channel line out converter.  Amp is a Kenwood KAC-8105D mono amp.

So really all I have to do is get the power wire from the battery to the trunk, and figure out where to install the line out converter.  I've read a bunch of posts on here, and even looked around on my MKS...and honestly, it seems like a pain the the ass!

 

[sholxgt]

I had it easy with two cars I've owned.  Not as easy with others.

The Crown Vic Police cars have a power distribution block in the trunk.
The Oldsmobile Aurora's have the battery under the back seat.

I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.

 

[TX MKS-T]

Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.

Could have because after day 2 of probing wires I was pretty fustrated and threw in the towel. I did get a nice clean signal after the amp on 2 wires but lacked volume control from headunit. Also if it helps the power wire for the LC2i I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I think with the MKS/Taurus we are stuck with running a power cable all the way back.

Yep nothing in the back that could be used for power on my 2010 so ran all the way up front. The frewall is pretty sealed so ended up even though I didnt want to drilling a small hole below the steering shaft and used a rubber groomet and ran wire through followed by sealing around it with silicone. The wire will poke out right behind the firewall heatshield and slightly below brake MC.

 

[Scott4957]

I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted. Its odd that you got a good signal after the amp but no volume control, I'm inclined to say you likely tapped the signal prior to the amp. Its pretty cut and dry, after the amp, the signal has to rise and fall with the volume knob and the LCi2 working properly has to see that. From my brief look at the amp it was not very clear what was inputs and what was outputs so I can see this getting confusing. As for why some of your taps got you nothing, that's hard to say. Its possible that you tapped a run to a tweeter and the bandpass is in the amp. This would mean the signals going down those wires where too high of a frequency and there was simply nothing in the range of the bandpass filter in the LCi2 to pass to the sub. This is why we need a wiring diagram for the THXII system. I know someone bought the one for the Sony system for 11 bucks, for that much I will just buy it if I can find it. I have a PM out to Kevin to see if he can get it for us but I have not heard back.

 

[sholxgt]

I ended running from the rear power port on middle console assuming the late model has this still like my 2010.

I am just going to pull the power for the LCi2 off the same run for the amp. With the GTO feature the LCi2 will turn on when it senses audio on the tapped speaker wires and off when it does not. Then you can use this to turn the amp on and off. I'm afraid that was time wasted.

Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.

 

[Scott4957]

Let us know what you find to be the best way to run power from the battery to the trunk.  On other cars I've owned I was able to splice into a factory grommet and run along factory wires.  This car looks to be more sealed up than most.

I just started this yesterday and it should be a sticky now.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6330.msg98527.html#msg98527

 

[Scott4957]

I have everything mounted. I made a quick mounting plate for the amp and some concentric rings for the 12" Kappa to fit the 10" hole. I also found these wiring diagrams from a pre-2013 MKS THXII system, hoping these are similar. I made the mistake of not checking the sub wiring colors so I will have to pull the sub and reach up in the deck to pull it out and see if it matches these diagrams from the older system.

 

[sholxgt]

Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?

 

[Scott4957]

Looking great!  Find a good source input yet?

If I knew those diagrams where good for the 2013 I would pull from the rear door. I may start by pulling from the sub. I have downloaded a few free apps that will generate low bass frequencies 1hz-200+hz that I can test with to ensure the full range is being passed to this sub which starts at 23hz.

 

[sholxgt]

Another strange thought occurred to me...

I wonder if there's a way to disable the Active Noise Control?  Partially because I don't like the idea of the entire concept, but also because I'm wondering what happens if we change the speakers, tap certain lines, etc and leave it enabled. 

The brochure for the MKS says that the system will "channel acoustic adrenaline to you in the form of tuned engine bliss."

We don't have a sound symposium thing on the intake, so that leaves me guessing that it tries to make engine noises through the stereo?

 

[Scott4957]

Another strange thought occurred to me...

I wonder if there's a way to disable the Active Noise Control?  Partially because I don't like the idea of the entire concept, but also because I'm wondering what happens if we change the speakers, tap certain lines, etc and leave it enabled. 

The brochure for the MKS says that the system will "channel acoustic adrenaline to you in the form of tuned engine bliss."

We don't have a sound symposium thing on the intake, so that leaves me guessing that it tries to make engine noises through the stereo?

Hmmm, not sure. I know BMW does that. I don't see how it will interfere with this type of setup. I found another MKS user on the board who used one of the 2 sub pairs and put them into his LC2i with no issues. He thinks the LPF is 100-120hz which is fine. This is where I will start and then test with an app to see when it starts passing to the sub. Listening to the THXII system without the sub for the last week has been interesting, you can really tell this is a well made system. I know some have said that past THXII systems have been better but this is by far the best factory system I have heard and I have no plans on messing with the rest of the system, just want some extra boom!

 

[sholxgt]

Unfortunately, I borrowed a 2008 Navigator from my wife's work for a few days and that was my first experience with the Lincoln THX.  It BLEW my mind!  I've had $4,000+ car stereos and it honestly would have competed with some of the best I have had.  I went to test drive the MKS with the memory of that THX system still in my head.

I came pretty close to buying the thing despite the anemic 5.4 just because the interior was so nice and the sound system was insanely good.

 

[Scott4957]

Unfortunately, I borrowed a 2008 Navigator from my wife's work for a few days and that was my first experience with the Lincoln THX.  It BLEW my mind!  I've had $4,000+ car stereos and it honestly would have competed with some of the best I have had.  I went to test drive the MKS with the memory of that THX system still in my head.

I came pretty close to buying the thing despite the anemic 5.4 just because the interior was so nice and the sound system was insanely good.

Do you have the surround sound turned off?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[sholxgt]

Unfortunately, I borrowed a 2008 Navigator from my wife's work for a few days and that was my first experience with the Lincoln THX.  It BLEW my mind!  I've had $4,000+ car stereos and it honestly would have competed with some of the best I have had.  I went to test drive the MKS with the memory of that THX system still in my head.

I came pretty close to buying the thing despite the anemic 5.4 just because the interior was so nice and the sound system was insanely good.

Do you have the surround sound turned off?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Definitely!  Much better set on stereo to my ears.

I also have the treble actually below center.  Gets too bright for me.  Which does leave me thinking that it mostly needs low fill...lots of it.  I think you are on the right path.

 

[Scott4957]

Good god its finally done! Something to consider if going free air in the rear deck "MKS has the 10" hole" You WILL need to remove the sun shade, that thing rattles like F'in crazy, no fixing it. It sounds pretty good, still need to tune it. I will have to dynomat the back deck and I may add weight to it as well. I placed 2 10# plates on closed cell foam, on on each side of the sub and it helped some. I will likely dynomat it first then see if there is a need to add weight.

Whats the least expensive option for dampening material?

 

[glock-coma]

Good god its finally done! Something to consider if going free air in the rear deck "MKS has the 10" hole" You WILL need to remove the sun shade, that thing rattles like F'in crazy, no fixing it. It sounds pretty good, still need to tune it. I will have to dynomat the back deck and I may add weight to it as well. I placed 2 10# plates on closed cell foam, on on each side of the sub and it helped some. I will likely dynomat it first then see if there is a need to add weight.

Whats the least expensive option for dampening material?

Whatever you use just make sure it's buytl rubber based not asphalt.
If it comes in a roll it's asphalt based. It will literally melt on your rear deck and turn to liquid filling every crack and crevice with tar.

Also what you may be hearing is the rear deck cover vibrating, if you remove it to sound deaden I would use some sort of closed cell foam as decoupling from the deck to rear deck cover. I've used yoga mats for this purpose but you'll have to attach it somehow for full effectiveness.
If you have an Eastwood tool company near you you can save on shipping, that's what I used. For the price of dynamat there are other options.
http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/sound-deadening.html

Second skin is expensive but it's probably one of if not the best.
Plus a they sometimes have "B" stock that you can get cheaper.
http://store.secondskinaudio.com

Lots more info at
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Scott4957]

Awesome, thank you! I left the rear deck off for now, all other pieces I reinstalled. So I guess that roll of window sealer is out, I figured it would smell so I didn't do it.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[glock-coma]

Yeah you dodged a bullet there.

 

[sholxgt]

Man I wish that I could hear the end result!

When I did my last car I used Dynamat Extreme bulk kits.  Buying them on eBay, Amazon, etc I saved quite a bit.  Good thing since I used a lot of it.  Did every inch of the interior, roof, inner and outer doors, etc.  I'm sure there are cheaper alternatives.

If you don't have a roller, I suggest picking one up.  They make it easier to get it completely down quickly.

 

[BiGMaC]

If you use dynamat complete coverage is not necessary. Cover the areas around the sub and immediately beneath it... The just try to apply strips evenly to cover 50-60% of the inside of the trunk. I recommend you consider downing the seat backs in the trunk to focus the sound into the cabin. Remember the weight you're adding and consider how products like dynamat work....mthey absorb vibration and radiate the energy as heat. I was never unhappy with it... Don't pay retail and use the extreme version as it is dormulated to stay adherent to the underside of horizontal surfaces such as the roof, hood, trunk lid, and rear deck.  Good advise on the material to stock the deck "carpet" from buzzing. Keep going until you are sure it is exactly the sound you want... Looks like a great start.
As far as the rear sun screen...  I have never used mine except to verify function when I took delivery... You won't miss it.