New 2015, what is necessary to keep it running long term with a good tune?

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purebe

New member
I just bought a new 2015 without performance package, at about ~500 miles right now.  I'm not sure yet how my dealership feels about getting a performance tune, but I'll probably be putting one on before 10,000 miles.  I've been reading a lot to try to see what I need to try to keep the car running long term (hoping to keep it as a DD for at least 6 years.)

Seems like oil catch cans and some kind of transmission cooler are the main things, is that advice still current for the 2015 model?

Also does anyone know if 91 pure is better or worse than 93 with 10% ethanol?  Will it make a difference to which tune I need to get?

Finally, how feasible is it to get this car down to 0-60 in ~4.0 seconds?  From what I've read it looks like I can expect it to go down to around 4.5 seconds or so with a tune, would love to try to get it to the 4.0 second mark though :D

PS: The car is pretty jerky around 10-15 mph when I'm light on the pedal (and I noticed it jerking pretty hard around 40mph as well once), going to take it to the dealership service so they can check it out but does that sound like the adaptive shifting just learning bad habits from me flooring it to the speed limit too often? (I've been mostly light footed since it's in the break in but I couldn't resist a bit of fun.)

I'm not very car-fluent so hopefully I've described that with some kind of accuracy.  Thanks for reading!
 
Welcome to EBPF, purebe!  Please post an intro thread here:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,14.0.html

Where are you located?  What is your driving style/mix, and how many miles expected yearly?

0-60 in 4 seconds can be had with a tune, 3 bar sensor, colder TStat, and (yes, top tier) 93.

Shouldn't really jerk, may be slow to shift.  Definitely have the dealer look at it first.  Perhaps it's just a matter of low transmission fluid level.

Put a tune on only after at least 1,000 miles of troublefree driving.  If you have issues on the stock tune, they may get exaggerated on an aftermarket tune.

Expect regular oil, transmission, and PTU/RDU fluid changes for "long life".  Spark plugs will burn out faster with a tune also.  Would consider upgrading the brake pads to the PP pads at a minimum.
 
Thanks for the responses!  I'm in north Kansas, not sure exactly what my driving style is but generally I floor it to get to speed (if no one is in front of me), and then I drive fairly tame until I come to the next stop.  I'd take it to a track for non competitive driving if I ever found one but they seem kind of rare.

Probably between 8,000 and 20,000 miles yearly, depending on how fun the car is :P

It jerked less than it has been today, although it was the first time it jerked around ~40mph, but I'm trying to not drive it much until I can get it to the dealer.  I'll temper my worries a bit if it is probably the computers, but it is weird.

Is there a service schedule you would recommend?  I pulled up the "standard" one https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/maintenance-schedule.html#/details but I think I'd rather err on the side of caution if it's being tuned and things.

I'm running 91 pure in it right now, but it isn't a top tier gas, I will start using top tier 93.  I was just looking at a map at https://find93.com/, seems if I was any more to the east I'd never find any 93 lol

It sounds like 4.0 is pretty easily attainable, that is really exciting!  If it's just those three things then that's actually pretty cheap too.  I'm not sure how often I would WOT it if it was that fast, but I'm already grinning at the prospect :D
 
welcome!
don't worry about ethanol, it's not evil like the internet forums say it is... ecoboosts love ethanol! I run an E20 tune for more effective octane since all I can get here is 91, but E85 is plentiful. I'd run more E if our fuel system was more robust and could move more fuel.
as far as maintenance, I too want my car to last 6 to 7 years. I'm doing a 5000 mile oil change interval with full synthetic. I started with transmission drain and refills at around 30k miles and have done it 3 times within a couple thousand to exchange most of the old fluid out. I drained and filled the PTU at 30k miles and the fluid was BLACK... but it was still runny, not sludge. I'll stick with the factory interval for coolant.
 
^x2.  Spark plugs definitely between 25K/30K miles.  Sooner if you notice a degradation in performance and have reason to believe it's the plugs.  There is a writeup on this (and on many other things) in the HOW TO section, well worth perusing:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,107.0.html

What fluids are you running, 92BlackGT?  If other than Motorcraft, please consider updating your signature also.  I am pretty finicky about what goes into my car, so I try to put in what I consider "the good stuff" whenever possible.  Main thing, as with any vehicle, is to check your vehicle regularly and be aware of its' behavior over time.
 
Welcome aboard the EBPF purebe and due post some pic's of the new ride....Stellar advice from above and would also check the plug gap's they could be scattered from the factory,they should be gapped at 0.030 considering you have a 15 SHO,and due try to avoid hitting the" REV" limiter the first 1,000 mile and best of luck.  Z
 
Looks like I'll be spending some serious time in the HOW TO section, thanks for the link!  Does anyone worry about ethanol consistency in E10 fuel?  Seems like a lot of complaints about it, is that something I can monitor using a tuning device?

I will definitely post some pictures (although it looks a lot like yours I think, ruby red, looks good but it needs to be washed again, I guess birds like the color too.

Also I meant to ask, does anyone know if the warranties are worth it or not?  I have the premiumcare (looks like I can get a much better deal through floodfordesp.com though), going to either cancel it or negoiate a better deal on it.  Also have the finishing touch warranty at $695.0 which seems OK to me, and then the tire and wheel at $479, which sounded really good the way it was described to me but now from what I've read it looks like it isn't worth it at all, especially if I decide to get non-OEM tires or wheels.  I haven't read the fine print yet on the tire and wheel one, but wondering what people think about it here?

I know all of that has to be tempered by if I have a tune it is less and less, which is another thing I'm trying to weigh.  Seems silly that ford racing provides tunes for mustangs that don't invalidate the warranty but similar tunes for the SHO can cause issues.
 
wouldn't worry about ethanol consistency, but be sure to use Top Tier fuel.

Keep the premiumcare, being out of warranty can be expensive through no fault of your own.  I do think you have the option to purchase even towards the end of the 3/36 B2B warranty for a bit more money than now, so it is up to you.  Not sure if it would have to pass inspection at that time, which should not be a big deal if maintained properly.  No idea on other packages, but the tire/wheel pkg I believe only covers serious defects like cracks in the wheel.  Curb rash will not be covered.  Just like surface rust is not covered under B2B, but penetrating rust is.

With a tune, stick with tried and true, do only boltons.  Much easier to make your case under warranty if you have to.  And if you can find a tune-friendly dealer, that would be a huge bonus.

 
What do you mean by boltons?  Like the JMS BoostMax?  Those things seem sketchy based on what I read about them, not sure if I'd be willing to use one.  Also I meant to ask, what is the benefit of upgrading the brake pads to the pp version?  Is it mainly for reducing fade?  I don't think I've ever driven hard enough to really experience fade, but maybe the stopping distance is greatly improved?  I'd like that but it seems fine now, I suppose it depends on how much they cost or if they do more than I realize :D

I'm still in turmoil about the warranties.  After looking into it I really regret the finishing touch warranty, $695 and you have to reapply the coating and it looks like getting work done in the name of the warranty isn't very easy par the course.  You can buy the resistall kit they handed me for $18 online, and it probably cost them at most $50 to apply it initially.  I probably won't ever even have any interior damage, and if I do it will probably come out to less than $695 total.  Plus I wash/wax my car anyway, and now I'm not even sure what to do about it.  If I could go back, I would have said NO to that.  But they've already applied the coat so I don't think I can back out, maybe I can get them to prorate the remainder of the warranty though..

I'm still feeling mixed about the tire and wheel protection, at $479 for 5 years and unlimited coverage that sounds great, except, I don't think I've ever damaged a wheel.  I've screwed up axles, tie rods, and alignment but none of that is covered by this warranty.  It doesn't cover curb rash which would be nice but I don't think I've ever had that either.  I'm not sure how likely a wheel is to be damaged from a pothole or road debris, has anyone ever actually used this?  Any experiences with it?  I'm leaning towards cancelling it, but the guy said the wheels cost $1300 per (the 20" ebony ones).. but could probably find them a lot cheaper if I shopped around.  It'd probably pay for itself one way or the other if I ever used it once and they actually covered the claim, but I'm a bit worried about the odds on those two events.

I really wish I could find a place that listed out annual service records for a particular car model, alongside which warranties would cover it and how much the total parts/labor cost is, how much the warranty would be, how many claims were filed for the given issue, and how many were covered/denied.  But then I suppose I don't really need to see it to know I'm on the losing end by buying the extended warranty.  Anyone here have any experience with the premiumcare warranty actually saving them money?  What kind of repairs are most likely/and how much would they normally cost?

I paid $3,414 in total for the three warranties, but that's probably more than I've paid in total for car work in the past 5 years of owning old beaten up used cars.  I have to doubt that a new car would have anywhere near the rate of issues.  If I had paid maybe $1,000 in total I'd be OK with things as they are, but, this just feels like I'm pissing money down a drain!

I think the only reason I want them at all is because I want to baby the car until I sell it, and now I'm worried about other people being careful when they get in the car and etc.  I think this is ridiculous, I should just enjoy the car, drive it to hell and run it to the ground and keep it until I decide to waste money again on a new car sometime 6-10 years down the road.  Screw the warranty issues and get the tune and any aftermarket parts I want and just have fun with it.  If it gets damaged it's character as long as it isn't a safety issue, and if it is a safety issue then I have insurance.  Right?  Am I wrong?  I might be wrong.

Someone please talk me out of this if cancelling these would be a stupid idea, but I don't see how it could be worth keeping.
 
Boltons meaning CAI, turboback exhaust, downpipes, 3bar MAP sensor, TStat, etc.  Nothing that touches the engine internally/directly.  No BoostMax type devices tho.

I do not have a SHO, but I did get PremiumCare.  To me, PremiumCare was worth it even having bought a CPO vehicle.  It has more than paid for itself over time with engine/electronics related issues.  I find CPO to not be a guarantee of getting a properly functioning car but a reasonable assurance.  Same goes for a new vehicle.  You have the 3/36 to try out and determine if you want an extended warranty, and you can buy even after that subject to inspection.  So it is really your call to make.  Read the warranties for tires and brakes carefully, because they may not be what you expect.  They are wear items.  Go through the TSBs issued so far to get a sense of what kind of issues you might encounter.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html

I have never purchased a tire/wheel or finishing warranty, so I can't speak to that.  But I am also resigned to my vehicles being workhorses and maintaining their "inner" beauty.  Of course they get washed/waxed at the touchless maybe 4 times a year (horrific, I know), more if there's reason to.  Is the coating renewal at your cost?  If not, it may not be so bad.  But if I got a new vehicle and wanted to protect the finish, I would have a pro detailer put on CQuartz Finest or similar product (maybe 2-3 layers), and/or get the car professionally plastidipped/wrapped.  Then there's the added protection of ClearBra type products.

With the SHO, I would pay attention to maintaining the interior (leather/Alcantara) but in a non-OCD way.
 
SHOdded said:
What fluids are you running, 92BlackGT?  If other than Motorcraft, please consider updating your signature also.  I am pretty finicky about what goes into my car, so I try to put in what I consider "the good stuff" whenever possible.  Main thing, as with any vehicle, is to check your vehicle regularly and be aware of its' behavior over time.
Click to expand...

I tried the BND oil but decided to just go with AMSOIL as it really isn't much more expensive than other synthetics and it's tried and true. I still use the ACES IV as it really helps quiet the HPFP. my car with the engine cover off is quieter than my buddy's SHO with the cover on.
 
I purchased the Platinum Esp warranty along with the wheel and tire coverage for roughly 1.700 back when i purchased the vehicle new and threw in a dozen of free complimentary oil changes because i'm such a nice person,lol....IMHO would cancel the( commission based )wheel coverage and maybe the Paint coverage too because they certainly can take a beating here in the pot holes of N.Y and you should receive a check in the mail for the above mentioned amount......the Platinum warranty is basically the same as the bumper to bumper warranty with some exclusions listed on the section of the vehicle protection plan,think the same applies for the Premium warranty,here is some info on whats covered below and hope this help's any and LMK.  Z  PLATINUM IS EXCLUSIONARY COVERAGE:
This means it covers your vehicle’s assemblies unless listed under the Exclusions section of the Vehicle Protection Plan.

PLATINUM EXCLUSIONS:
Brake linings, brake drums and rotors, disc brake pads, standard manual transmission clutch friction disc, pressure plate, pilot bearings, throw-out bearing and arm, air bags, solar powered devices, hinges, glass, lenses, sealed beams, body parts and/or panels, weather stripping, trim, moldings, door handles, lock cylinders, tires, wheels, all batteries except Hybrid/EV/Hydrogen High Voltage batteries as listed under Silver Coverage, light bulbs, upholstery, paint, bright metal, freeze plugs, filters, heater and radiator hoses, exhaust system, catalytic converter, shock absorbers, constant velocity joint boots, steering and suspension joint boots, work such as front-end alignment or wheel balancing (except when required in conjunction with a mechanical breakdown), safety restraint systems, audio/security or other system not factory installed, cellular phones, radar detectors, appliances, or vinyl and convertible tops.  [http://www.fidelitywarrantyservices.com/brochures/vehicle-protection]    BTW the Bottom line is that you can Definitely negotiate a price plan especially when purchasing the vehicle new with your financial advisor.  Z
 
I would suggest scrapping everything but the Premium care.

It won't take much going wrong on a SHO to qualify that purchase very quickly.

As far as tune and warranty, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you can get the stock tune back on the car they're never going to know.

I keep my 3 bar sensor with tool and my X4 in the car in case something happens.

Not having any bolt ons helps keep suspicion down as well.

 
I called today to cancel everything and I can't scrap the finishing touch, uncancellable warranty.  I got suckered, oh well, maybe it will turn out to be worth it.  I found the fine print for that warranty and it doesn't mention anything like reapplying coats or anything, and the financial guy told me it was unremovable even if I wanted to and that it would last for 5 years without reapplication.  I don't believe at all that but whatever, lesson learned.

As it turns out however, the extended and tire/wheel warranties are not through ford, but through mbpi preferred.  I still have 60 days from purchase date to cancel these if I want, but now I need to re-evaluate as everything I read was about the ford warranties.  This tire/wheel warranty offers up to $800 of cosmetic damage repair to the wheels, and the coverage it seems to claim would be worthwhile, now if I can just find some data or reviews on it.  The company is apparently really small, and has been around for a long time, and I've been able to find a tiny amount of information about it online.  They apparently do not repair parts, but replace the part with a "like" part, so a used transmission going bad would get replaced with a used transmission.  If they can't get a used one, they will remanufacture or get a new part.  I trust remanufactured and new, and I like that they don't repair, but I'm not sure how I should feel about used parts.

The financial guy sung their praises, and he seems honest enough but I'd still feel a lot better hearing from people who didn't have conflicts of interest.  Wish I could find more info about them online.

Final thing is I told him my bank offered gap for $200 vs their $800, and he said that I should ask my bank about how much their gap actually covered as the dealership gap covers up to 150% of the initial purchase price.  I need to read the fine print here as well to be sure, but I also need to figure out how the car values are calculated.  The credit union told me the car was valued in the low 30s, which I told them had to be wrong but they said they used the NADA value.  I checked nadaguides and it was valued invoice around 40, although I checked again today and they are only listing the base model sho now, but originally it let me set all the options.  Not sure why that is different, but even with the base model it's like 37 invoice.

Need to figure out how GAP insurance calculates all the numbers to make a better decision, but I feel like $800 is probably too much either way and the $200 will probably be fine, hoping to talk to my credit union again later this week to find out.  No matter how I calculate it though, I don't need anywhere near 150% of initial purchase price.
 
I would cancel every warranty that you can. If my math is right, you paid around $2300 for the aftermarket warranty. Not a good deal. Scrap it and the tire/wheel insurance.  Then shop for a Ford warranty.

You don't need wheel/tire insurance. They are covered under your standard auto policy.

Gap may be worth it if you financed the entire amount including TTT, etc. Dump those add on policies though and you're getting closer to not needing gap insurance.
 
Everyone has their own opinions and, hopefully, others on here with chime in, but here's mine...

When I finance a new car, I finance as little as possible.  This means no add on's, no additions, etc.  That alleviates the need for GAP insurance to a great degree.

I then pay it down as quickly as I can within reason.  Even just a few extra bucks each month.  If you can afford all these add on's, remove them and put the funds toward paying down the car loan.  When the car is nearing its end of the bumper to bumper warranty I then decide if it's worth purchasing an extended warranty.  At that time, you ask yourself...
- how reliable has the car been
- how much longer do I plan to keep the vehicle
- how costly are repairs

Yes, the warranty does cost more at that point, but much less than the cost of financing it for those first three years while you have no use for it and there's always the strong possibility that you won't even own it past the bumper to bumper period. (wants, needs, and wrecks happen)

I do believe that a warranty is a valuable thing to have for this particular type of vehicle, but a good one came with the car.  I see no reason to pre-purchase AND finance one now that you may not use/need.  The key to this all is to not finance anything more than you need at any given time.

I treat cash purchases differently.

FWIW, I have been a car salesman, have a degree in finance, have a wife who works at a dealership, and have bought/sold many cars.

 
I pay like a dollar and change/mo for gap coverage through American Family as a rider on my policy.

That of course can differ depending on company, level of coverage you carry, and number of items that fall under your policy. We have a bunch of products through them so the more you have the cheaper things get. A longtime spotless claim record and good credit helps.

SHOL gives sound advice about financing unless 0% financing is in play for you. Paying interest sucks. Paying interest on add ons sucks worse. Financial situations can change unexpectedly in a catastrophic way so I always try to plan for the worst case scenario.

I tell anyone planning to keep a vehicle longer than the B2B warranty to buy Premiumcare(or factory equivalent). New cars are very expensive when things go south and I have won everytime on extended warranties. I also lost big on some of my earlier vehicles I didn't buy them on. Doesn't matter make or model either, they all have year one, lemons, Monday and Fridays cars, etc. If you change your mind and sell the car all is not lost, its just another negotiation point on the trade as you can be sure the dealer will add that to the new buyer when it resells. If its a dealer you have a LTR with you can get damn near all your money back out of it.  The game was better when you could get the unused portion rebated but sadly that changed some years ago.

Financial situations vary widely so there's no one size its all answer. YMMV. You really have to game out all of your possible financial scenarios and choose the best options for your specific situation.

Shol is right, scrap that aftermarket POS and get a Ford backed warranty, I can't think of one thing Premiumcare hasn't paid over the years. That is a premium priced warranty you bought and them replacing defects with used parts is completely unacceptable IMHO.

 
wow, the PremiumCare ESP from Flood Ford is cheaper than the crap warranty I got from the Chevy dealer I got my car from that I had refunded. I've got 2k miles left until 36k to decide.... hmmm
 
Thanks for the replies.  After running the numbers and thinking it through tomorrow I'm going to cancel the esp and the tire/wheel plan.  If I decide to get premium care I'll do it through ford directly when I'm within a few thousand miles of the 36k mark.

Not sure what I want to do with the gap insurance yet.  It's blowing my mind but if this car is only worth 32, and it's going to rapidly drop down to 22, which is what my banks gap calculator tool seems to think, then the gap will, after cancelling esp/tire&wheel plan, peak at 13k in around a year.  With that kind of depreciation I actually need over 150% coverage of the current value, because that would still leave me at over 2k out of pocket if something happened during that time.

With the dealership gap, and I'd need to double check this, the gap would be fully covered the entire time, and it's cancellable for a partial refund at some point down the line (well, he said it was, would also need to double check that in the fine print.)  Also need to find out how much the credit unions gap covers, but it seems like it's fairly standard around 125%?  Guess I'll find out when I call tomorrow.

Seriously though thanks again for all the replies, I'd be seriously lost without this forum!
 
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