New MKS owner with a few questions

[Big_kat]

I picked up a 2013 MKS w/ 59000 miles this weekend, it’s been very well-maintained, all documented. But me being me, as soon as I get home I lift it up and start looking around it to make sure everything is all good. There’s really only 2 things I find a bit concerning, one more than the other. So first off it looks to me as if one of the plastic “clamps” that attaches tubing to front turbo is busted. I don’t know what kind of adverse effects that would cause. Maybe boost leak? Is there an easy fix for either replacement of the clamp or whole pipe? Any advise would help. Now, more concerning, there is oily residue around where the rear turbo outlet goes into the charge pipe. Could this be because it isn’t sealed correctly? PCV issue? Do I need a catch can? Any advise/info or remedy would be greatly appreciated, Thankyou.

 

[Kyrek387]

  Catch can definitely, probably what led to the turbo failure. Replace the turbo and get it retuned. Only use full synthetic, I like Royal purple but there are some better options now available. Just a suggestion. No idea how versed your are, but with little to go on thats my advice.

 

[Big_kat]

As far as I know the rear turbo hasn’t failed. Why do you think it has? And retuned? It’s all stock.

 

[TopherSho]

Large amounts of Oil up the charge pipe may mean the seals are going or gone.  Check the front pipe, if it's coated a catch can may help.


If the front pipe is clean, then the oil pooling and escaping is from the oil lines or bad turbo seals.


I'd not be to rough on it until you can determine source.  Since you just bought it take it right back and have them diagnose it, the limited warranty or aftermarket warranty will cover it. ... Or it should.

 

[Big_kat]

Well, that doesn’t sound good. I bought it private party, so no warranty to speak of. There’s no other visible oil anywhere, no leaks, no smoke. Is there a way I can diagnose if the turbo is bad? Or on its way out? I figured it was a pcv issue or a cracked hose maybe. Thankyou.

 

[TopherSho]

Honestly , pulling the front pipe and back pipe will tell you a lot.  If the front pipe is not very oily then the oil can only come from the oil lines or turbo seals.


Check for cracks on the plastic charge pipe, check the oil lines for fittment, flex and cracks.  Replace as needed.  O clamp them if you like. 


If the lines are tight and not cracked and the charge pipe does not have a cracks it's the seals

 

[TopherSho]

While your down there under the lift with the pipes off wiggle the spindle... It should not wiggle around.

 

[Big_kat]

[list type=decimal]
[*]Not looking good. I checked the CAC for oil. There was a bit. Rear turbo has oil all over it. Front looks fine I think, guess I’ll be making a visit to the dealership. Wow, this blows. Am I ok to drive it? Or is that a no go?








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[Big_kat]

Pulled this pipe to check out the inside, the clamp that goes to the rear turbo outlet was loose. That’s right where the oil was on the pipe.

The whole pipe had a little residue inside, but no difference from front to back really. No excessive residue in the BOV or the recirculation pipes. Throttlebody was clean with no residue at all.


image hosting
Rear turbo outlet




I went ahead and scheduled an appointment at the local Ford dealer for next week to get it checked out. Wouldn’t it be smoking really bad? I’m confused.

 

[TopherSho]

well that's neat.  It is a housing seal likely.  None of the connecting lines had trailing oil? Just the drips on the outside housing?

If so safe to drive,  sure .. dont go drag racing it.  That seal will get worse and when it full on fails it will be a concrete mess and smell lovely.    Yeah take it in, you will get told to replace it.

Your choice at that point on who to change it out.. dont get remaned turbos get fresh snails.  Or if you are up for an adventure .. if the spindle is not loose and the turbine blades are not pitted or cracked or a weird color or chipped all you need to do is replace the seals with a off the shelf rebuild kit.

 

[TopherSho]

on the oil in the condenser is a ecoboost thing.  transverse, longitudal, 4cyl v6 they all get a certain amount of gunk in them .. it is the very nature of  the condenser. 


Normally it is not an issue .. however if you live in a rainy area you *may* get enough #$%^ to every now an then suck some into the intake tract.  can cause a CEL/misfire and OAR to dip/spike and throw off idle for a very tiny amount of time.


A number of people will park at a slight angle to force the goo over and suction it out every now than then using an adapter and a good shop vac.  Others have tapped in a relief valve ,, but im dubious of drilling in and not flushing all the shavings out.

 

[Big_kat]

The only other line that had oil on it was this one. Sorry not a great picture. Oil residue on the pan a bit too. I really appreciate all your help TopherSho, for real! This is my first turbo car, I’m coming from the BMW world, E36 M3 to be exact. I’ve always been a DIY guy, but from what I’ve read this turbo is a bear to replace. I’ve seen $1200-$1400 to get it done by the dealership. Does that sound right?

 

[Big_kat]

I sucked the goo out with a fluid extractor, I jacked up the drivers side and didn’t get too much. I had read that it’s a good idea to check/ remove the build up every so often.

 

[Big_kat]

Does the boost seem normal?

 

[TopherSho]

Does the boost seem normal?

under WoT you should see 11-13 stock.  In auto mode,  get to about 45mph on a stretch of road with no traffic,  level if possible. with the handheld monitoring downshift by punching it and keeping it floored.  It will drop to about 2300 rpm in 2nd.  keep the pedal down and run it about to 65,  it will upshift @59-61 mph and then you can let off.  While its wot check the boost reading then. 


When you are idle you are not spooled and will be running on negative pressure   like every other NA engine. 

 

[TopherSho]

The only other line that had oil on it was this one. Sorry not a great picture. Oil residue on the pan a bit too. I really appreciate all your help TopherSho, for real! This is my first turbo car, I’m coming from the BMW world, E36 M3 to be exact. I’ve always been a DIY guy, but from what I’ve read this turbo is a bear to replace. I’ve seen $1200-$1400 to get it done by the dealership. Does that sound right?

That one is interesting ... the braided line looks clean,  which makes me thing the oil is coming from somewhere else .. hmmm know anyone with a GOOD clear borescope?    might be time to get a camera that will fit down there.

 

[Macgyver]

In the grand scheme of things. Its not that much oil either. On the outside.......

 

[TopherSho]

In the grand scheme of things. Its not that much oil either. On the outside.......

tough call man.  Have ford do a visual inspection,  they have the tools to scope it with a camera and find the source ... and or MECH you trust ..

I'm tempted to say the oil is coming from somewhere else .. but I cant state that with any certainty .. and if the seal is bad and goes all it once you may end up taking the block with it..

Better to get it looked at if you can't get a good read on the source .. couple hundie versus gambling on a used block or 6k on a new one .. no brainer.

 

[Big_kat]

I’ve got an appointment set up with my local Ford dealership to take a look at everything on Wednesday. I’m not gonna leave anything to chance. The guy I bought it from has all the records, oil and fluids were changed/ flushed regularly. I can’t believe the turbo would be bad at 59k but Im not knowledgable about these cars yet. I’m really hoping it’s just a oil line or fitting that’s seeping and it’s an easy fix. I appreciate all the help

 

[TopherSho]

I’ve got an appointment set up with my local Ford dealership to take a look at everything on Wednesday. I’m not gonna leave anything to chance. The guy I bought it from has all the records, oil and fluids were changed/ flushed regularly. I can’t believe the turbo would be bad at 59k but Im not knowledgable about these cars yet. I’m really hoping it’s just a oil line or fitting that’s seeping and it’s an easy fix. I appreciate all the help

post updates!  good luck!