jfelicia64 said:
So with an unleashed or lms tune, 3 bar, plugs, intake and tstat where do you think realitistically I could be? The DA and temps here in Houston are great right now. Humidity is still here for now but now that the rain isn't here it may drop a bit. I will eventually go meth no doubt considering I ran meth on my mazda speed and it was the best decision I made. What are the chances of the dealer even checking out the car you
Think?
LOL... I lived in Alvin... The humidity never goes away, and in the warm months is about equal to the temp!
Each car is a little unique. Your probably starting about 280-295 WHP based on my stock dyno and this of others (expect closer to 280). The only WHP/WTQ adding mods in the list you ask about are the tune... all cars are different but you can add 50-70 WHP with that.
Meth... i'm looking hard at it, and even for reasons beyond performance! The IC on our cars is air to air and inadequate, especially with the humidity there in Houston and the high specific heat of water.... You can cool the intake air post IC about 40-50 degrees with meth, and each one of those degrees is likely worth a wheel horsepower.. so say 40-60 WHP if your tuner adds the adjustment for it....
As far as a dealer checking the car for meth.... if they raise the hood your likely busted and they will likely void the power train warranty... especially if you have an engine problem... litigation is the sport of kings... so most of us accept that possible loss of warranty coverage is the price of the performance game... Each will decide the desires, purposes, and risks they are willing to take when modding begins...
Bpd has his SHO at 617WHP... currently the most powerful SHO... he runs meth and did a partial engine rebuild with his tuner LME.
Just be sure you enjoy America's #1 sleeper hotrod!
Here is a list of tested mods originally posted by 4DRHTRD in the "power per mod" thread and he updated it in October 2013 it ranks the mods by bang for the buck.... and is still a good read. Note that you can really just add them up always.
4DR's post is below:
I'm going to rank these by my opinion of best mod by power per dollar spent.
1. Tuning - you can pick up 30-70HP here pretty easily depending on what fuel is available to you and if you want to run race gas or not. Figure around $500 with tuner. The lower octane you can run the lower HP you an pick up thus the range. If you really want to maximize your power with tuning doing a dyno tuning session with your tuner will pick up another 10 to 30HP (IMHO) but will cost you a few hundred dollars more. If you're looking for ever HP safely this is the best case scenario.
2. Meth injection - you can pick up another 30-60 HP here depending on how aggressive you want to get with timing and your tuner. Cost between $200 and $1000 depending on how fancy you want to get with controllers, extra bottles for storage etc.
3. Turbo upgrade - If you have a tune and meth injection (my suggestion) or an aux fueling solution (discussed later) you can upgrade your turbos. Worth another 30-? (most HP now is 600WHP with aux fueling)HP. Currently the upgrades upgrade either your compressor wheel and/or add an aftermarket wastegate. There is also a full turbo upgrade coming this fall or winter so no one knows the true maximum output of the turbo upgrade scenario yet and how much power the block will take. Currently $1500 to $2000 for the two stock turbo upgrades, and $2200 for a true turbo center section upgrade.
4. Downpipes - luckily multiple companies offer these now and they're getting cheaper, between $700ish and $1000 for around 20ish HP and quicker spooling of the turbos. (My Edit after 3 sets and 9 dyno plus BTB same day: 12 whp catted, 17 whp non-catted, BUT moves the entire start of the power band down to about 1700rpm due to earlier turbo spooling)
5. Exhaust - $100ish (remove 3rd cat, resonator and mufflers with straight pipe) to $1000+ for full stainless catback exhausts. Another 20ish HP here.
6. Intake - jury is out on this one, we've seen these drop ET/MPH from doing intakes but hopefully we'll be coming out with a new intake tube per turbo with a cold air or sealed stock style box soon. $200ish to $700 (My Edit: currently no evidence points to improved WHP with a CAI... there is no difference in my car on the dyno with full oem vs removing the intake and filter completely... current evidence suggests that the MDesign CAI is superior to anything you can buy as far as performance... I love mine... It's beautiful.... There are other reasons for adding CAI than performance.)
Optionals not normally used (my crazy mad scientist mods)
Nitrous - I've personally ran a 75 shot on my Flex and picked up .6 in the 1/4 mile. You can pick up a used kit and controller on Craigslist pretty cheaply and install. For all brand new gear it can get expensive. $250 (used parts) to $$$$$ for new.
Auxiliary fuel system - I'm the only one who's built one so far, to replicate with what I know now around $2800. Gives the ability for unlimited fuel without the HPFP sagging under load. Needed in the long term for the true turbo upgrade or if you want to run E85. This includes injectors, dual in tank fuel pumps and a modified intake manifold or intake spacer (working on this one)
E85 or E85 mix - Auxiliary fuel system required for this one as the stock system can't handle ANY E85 mix without running out of fuel. E85 let's you increase the timing massively and run "hotter" boost while cooling the intake track off as well. An alternative to running alky/water injection but a true fuel. Requires dual in tank fuel pumps to replace factory pump. This fuel has allowed me to get to 600WHP on just a turbo upgrade and downpipes/cutout.
Exhaust Manifolds - Now that I've hit 600WHP, the small size of the factory exhaust manifolds is starting to get in the way, need to find a way to replace stockers, this might open up a way to also install a T3 turbo swap. (My Edit: No one makes these)
Water to Air Intercooler - 600WHP has caused me to start looking hard at the factory intercooler and replacing it. An aftermarket water to air will be the best scenario as there's just no good way to fit a big air to air in the front of the car. I'm guessing at the current 26PSI I'm at that I can pick up 30-50WHP here.
Dual-in-tank fuel pumps - Auxiliary fuel system required for this one as the stock system can't handle ANY E85 mix without running out of fuel. E85 let's you increase the timing massively and run "hotter" boost while cooling the intake track off as well. An alternative to running alky/water injection but a true fuel.
End of 4DR's list.....
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