New SHO owner with problems

My15SHO said:
I was told a transmission line wasnt tightened and leaking, they tightened it and topped it off. No more leaks overnight so i assume thats fixed.  I had the car back for two days and it throws a P0020 code on the way to work, which happens to be the same code that i brought it in for back on June 20th. 7 weeks.....three visits.....right back where we started.

P0020 is probably going to be the wiring coming from your vct solenoid. Mine had a break inside the plug itself, so it wasn't visible but some people have had the wiring on the outside break as well.

If you have a multimeter, remove the plug and hold the start button on your car for a few seconds without pressing brakes. At this point you should have 8-9 volts or so when you plug the multimeter prongs directly into the two spots on the plug. Then press on the wiring and bend it until you see the voltage drop to zero and you will know where the break is.

Super common problem on these cars. Been about 3 in facebook groups just in the last week.
 
Thanks for the info, so the million dollar question is if it is the wiring/plug that causes the code, is it just a split second voltage that sets the code and there is no "damage" being done? I reset the light with a scan tool and it hasnt come. back on yet. Is there any harm being done by faulty wiring to the engine and the timing?. Thanks a lot guys!
 
My15SHO said:
Thanks for the info, so the million dollar question is if it is the wiring/plug that causes the code, is it just a split second voltage that sets the code and there is no "damage" being done? I reset the light with a scan tool and it hasnt come. back on yet. Is there any harm being done by faulty wiring to the engine and the timing?. Thanks a lot guys!

If I remember right, it only sets the code if voltage is lost for 5 seconds straight or something along those lines. It isn't going to hurt the car to drive it like that in the meantime, but long term it would not be good for the car. Mine started as the code would pop once every couple days, then after about two months it got to the point where it came on every time I drove it. It idled a little rough but that was about all I noticed as far as driveability.
 
Hey,
Sorry to hear that!
As per my knowledge, this must be a wiring issue. May be this will help you: https://handtoolsforfun.com/how-to-connect-a-multimeter-to-measure-current/

Also, I think the crank sensor is not working properly, which is cutting off the crank signal while the engine is running. This is happening due to wiring issues. You can check it using multimeters.
Crank sensor monitors the position and speed of the crankshaft which plays an important role in starting an engine.
 
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