OEM Stereo Upgrade: JL Audio or Alpine

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I have been trying to surround myself with the best information out there as I approach upgrading the OEM stereo in my 2013 SHO with the Sony system. I have yet to find a great online resource for reviews or a local shop that carries any premium inventory, so I am going to lean on the people with good ears here on the forum. The plan at this point is to do a mild upgrade upgrade to include the following:
-Replace factory amp with a 3/4 channel amplifier to power front soundstage and subwoofer
-Replace front speakers (A-pillar and door) with a component system
-Eventually will add a single subwoofer box in the trunk
-Leave OEM speakers powered by the OEM amp for rear fill
-I want to spend about $600-$700 on front components and amplifier
I am really torn right now between two manufacturers, Alpine and JL Audio. I am very familiar with JL Audio as that is what I used last time I did a car audio build. Alpine seems to have great support and reviews from what I can find for solid information. So here are my two questions:

So can anyone help me choose between JL Audio and Alpine based on past experiences?
Anyone have other manufacturer solutions that might fit this application?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

 

[kbeck59]

There is absolutely no doubt in my opinion the JL Audio is a far Superior Product  , especially when compared to Alpine . If you plan on doing this yourself , components are considerablyl less expensive shopping on line than at any car audio shop.  My last full blown car audio set up was primarily JL Audio and MB Quart in my last 2006 taurus that I gave to my son . I had over $7,000.00 in it ... My son loves it (heavy metal & RAP) and it is still bangin strong after over two years of torture by him . I had the full set up in it for three years before giving it to him ..

I am going to do a full blown system in the near future as well on my SHO but have yet to look closely at the stock system to develop at plan ... I do have a Shop that will build me a tuned fiberglass sub enclosure to fit behind the seats in the trunk .... I would not go with any wooden enclosure ... There is a sub enclosure for the spare tire area you might want to look at . It can be found on line . If you are interested and can't find it let me know......

 

[Kolk1]

I did "kinda" the same thing you are planning.

I did Hertz HSK165XL up front. And they are running off of a RE Audio 4 channel amp, bridged to a 2 channel. Factory amp is still powering the factory speakers, but its tuned so about 80% of the sound is the front doors.

I have tossed around the idea of doing some Hertz 6x9s in the rear deck on a small amp, but then disconnect the rear doors, and send that signal to the rear deck, that way they are getting a HP signal instead of the factory LP signal. The stock 6x9 "subs" are disconnected since I have real subs. And I have people in the back seat alot, and doing a set of 6x9s on Full range would add a lot more sound than just redoing the rear door speakers.

I got a wild hair and wanted to try out the new Retro Style Alpine subs called Bass Line, they just came out with. They are the replacements for the Alpine Type E subs that Ive always really like the sound of. So right now Im just running two 10s in a sealed box off an old Pioneer sub amp. Its 1000RMS at 1ohm, so I keep it around. lol

If I decided to run full range to the rear 6x9s and replace them with a set of Hertz speakers, I might just sell my RE Audio amp, and buy a lot bigger 4 channel, that way all 4 can run off the same amp. But the RE Audio amp I have right now, as a 4 channel isnt enough power for the Hertz, that why Im running it bridged as a 2 channel.

As far as boxes go, I am currently running just your standard MDF box, but ive been looking into doing a fiberglass box on each side of the truck(single 10 on each wall), because right now, I usually take my sub box out in winter, because I need the pass though for snowboards and ski's. So doing a sub in each wall, would allow me to leave them in all year around.

 

[Lanson]

Sticking with stock processing??

 

[Kolk1]

I am for now. If I redo I'll probably add a audison bit 10 or bit 6 processor.

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I am sticking with the stock processing and will upgrade if I feel like it is necessary down the road.

 

[Lanson]

I am sticking with the stock processing and will upgrade if I feel like it is necessary down the road.

I remember us talking about this in the past, but yes processing is a big deal on these cars, it is the biggest let-down IMO.

Anyway, JL makes great speakers (but some are overpriced but w/e), same with Alpine.  I used to use X-Pro Alpines in another build, did OK.  I would prefer to run active drivers from the DIY market, but I get that people want a "brand".  I like JBL's higher end, the NEW Kappa high end (not the older CMMD stuff), and am a particular fan of soft-dome tweeters like Vifa and Seas.

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I am perfectly content with going with DIY speaker solution, as long as the sound quality and ease of installation is there. Can you make any recommendations?

 

[Lanson]

I am perfectly content with going with DIY speaker solution, as long as the sound quality and ease of installation is there. Can you make any recommendations?

Catch 22, needs a processor to handle the frequencies.

BUT, if anybody has a pic of the door with measurements, I can make some suggestions.  You'd need some real amp power but the Anarchy is being remade, finally.  http://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy-woofer-pre-order/anarchy.html  In 4 ohm, it would be incredible.  Hint:  You are going to need to seriously deaden the crap out of the door.  These woofers are like subs in excursion, in fact they give most subs a run for their money.  Yet their inductance will let them play very high.  A low-playing large pillar tweeter could in fact pair with them.  When a processor comes out that I like that has 2 more channels of audio at a fair price, I think I'll try to run these in the doors w/ a 2 way in the pillar, and try that out.  That would probably be mind-boggling good especially with the center channel and the right processing.   
If you can't fit that, the Dayton RS180 is a pretty good driver.  http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-4-7-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-374
Check this out http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/ That's the Silver Flute wool cone, notice the review with the reference to being used in-car.  The measurements agree, this should be good in the doors. It is out of stock right now though..
Along the same lines, this http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hi-vi-woofers-6-7/hi-vi-l6-4r-6-woven-kevlar-cone-4-ohm/ and http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/fountek-woofers-6-7/fountek-fw168-6.5-aluminum-cone-woofer/ , but watch the cone breakup on the Fountek, you'll need to cross low and hard (24dB/oct, say around 2.5kHz) to get there.  Awesome excursion though.
Check these guys out, http://www.zalytron.com/  they sell Focal speakers which some would be incredible.  I'm NOT a fan of the TN44 tweeter, but the woofers could be amazing.  Example, the 7" polyglass midbass for $64, that's sweet.  But you might need to call, the website looks a little broken here and there.  They probably don't update all the time.

I could go on, but one critical thing is processing and extra amp channels.  Unless you like making passive crossovers (which is worthless in a car, because of all the crazy reflections, refractions, and time alignment issues.)

 

[Fast SHO]

I am going with the JL 13TW5v2 for the spare tire well.  JL C5-650's up front.  Disconnecting all the other speakers since I prefer only a front sound stage and subwoofer.

Going to save some $$ and go with a 5 channel Alpine PDX-v9 amp.  Gives me the opportunity to add another set of components in the future.  Was considering a JL HD900/5 but can't rationalize the cost.

Anyone have any suggestions on a processor?  I was thinking of keeping it simple and going with a cleansweep.

 

[kbeck59]

For those interested in keeping the Sub simple and out of the way there is the  JL Audio Ford Taurus Subwoofer Stealthbox - 94497  ......  Fits in the Spare tire well

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I actually woke up in the middle of the night to search out car audio reviews, so I need to order some stuff before it either drives me crazy or I get cold feet. So here is what I am going to order to get the ball rolling:
-(2) Boston Acoustic GT-2200 amplifiers
    -200 watts x 2 channels @ 4 ohms for the front soundstage
    -350watts x 2 channels @ 2 ohms to dual voice coil subwoofer
Now here is the tough part, what speakers to get for the front soundstage. I appreciate the information supplied on DIY solutions, but seems more involved than I want to get for this build. So it looks like I am going with a branded set of components. Here is what I have it narrowed down to:
-JL Audio C5-570
-Boston Acoustics PRO50SE
I appreciate any help that people can offer me to make the best decision possible.   

 

[Fast SHO]

I liked the PRO60's I had.  The tweeter is soft and not harsh.

BTW, why aren't you going with 6.5'?

My understanding is that 6.5's work but require and adapter ring.

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I liked the PRO60's I had.  The tweeter is soft and not harsh.

BTW, why aren't you going with 6.5'?

My understanding is that 6.5's work but require and adapter ring.

I would go with a 6.5" in the front door, but not sure that would fit in the 6"x8" opening.

 

[Lanson]

I am going with the JL 13TW5v2 for the spare tire well.  JL C5-650's up front.  Disconnecting all the other speakers since I prefer only a front sound stage and subwoofer.

Going to save some $$ and go with a 5 channel Alpine PDX-v9 amp.  Gives me the opportunity to add another set of components in the future.  Was considering a JL HD900/5 but can't rationalize the cost.

Anyone have any suggestions on a processor?  I was thinking of keeping it simple and going with a cleansweep.

I think acoustically going just 2ch in a car is an error.  In a "perfect" home audio room, it makes sense.  But in a car we're constantly battling the acoustics, so psycho-acoustic "tricks" become necessary.  The other speakers center create the ambiance that the glass, plastic, leather/cloth, odd shapes, odd speaker placement etc all destroy what could otherwise be a great reproduction of 2ch original source.

And this is why I bought what I bought.  But the new Alpine, RF, Audison, and Helix offerings all look nice.

A

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

I am still going to have the rear speakers powered by the stock amp for minimal rear fill.
I just never bought into the center channel application for car audio as more speakers and more processing is not always the best solution. The last build I did probably should have stopped after doing the front 2 channels and adding a subwoofer. Nothing as far as extra channels or processing improved the sound, yet cost me quite a bit of coin. If I start with the a minimalist build, more stages can always be added later if I think changes need to be made.

 

[Lanson]

I am still going to have the rear speakers powered by the stock amp for minimal rear fill.
I just never bought into the center channel application for car audio as more speakers and more processing is not always the best solution. The last build I did probably should have stopped after doing the front 2 channels and adding a subwoofer. Nothing as far as extra channels or processing improved the sound, yet cost me quite a bit of coin. If I start with the a minimalist build, more stages can always be added later if I think changes need to be made.

Just know you cannot do a processing step while leaving the rest of the system stock.  To do so would result in awkward time delay issues.  Any processing step creates delay, due to the way processors work (like a computer, really.)  The time it takes can be a few ms, or more.  Basically ANY processor needs to be either fully in control of all channels, OR some channels have to go.  In my '10 Flex, I had to give up the D-pillar rearmost speakers, and use just the 8 channels the processor could handle. 

To reiterate, if you go with a processor, it must be given full control of all channels that will continue to play.

 

[SRT82ECOBOOST]

@Lanson: Thanks for all the quality advice on this build. Hopefully it comes out as good as I expect.

 

[jim1274]

For those interested in keeping the Sub simple and out of the way there is the  JL Audio Ford Taurus Subwoofer Stealthbox - 94497  ......  Fits in the Spare tire well

FWIW, if you want this JL Audio Stealthbox for the Taurus wheel well, might want to grab one soon--item is discontinued.  There seem to be a few left at online vendors, but the best deal I could find was direct from JL Audio in their "closeout specials":

http://www.jlaudio.com/sb-f-taurus-13tw5v2-car-audio-stealthbox-94497

This is a nice discount price for a high quality and elegant solution to sub for the the SHO.  I ordered one last night so they are still available. 

I looked at this sub solution issue in depth about a year ago and the JL was the best "stealth" option IMHO.  Others have upgraded the rear deck speakers, but the choices are limited due to shallow mounting depth available without getting into cutting the trunk liner drop-downs bump outs for the existing speakers.

 

[kbeck59]

 
additional info from JL website :

SB-F-TAURUS/13TW5v2

Ford's big sedan combines advanced technology with solid design fundamentals to offer a compelling value proposition. Really great sub-bass just didn't make the cut, though. You could add a conventional subwoofer "box", rendering that big trunk a lot less useful. Or, you could sidestep that compromise completely, while adding world-class sub-bass performance to your Taurus with our purpose-engineered Stealthbox®. The Stealthbox® for the Taurus employs our advanced 13.5-inch Thin-Line Subwoofer in a super-slim enclosure that installs under the spare tire. Best of all, this Stealthbox® is specifically tuned for the Taurus by JL Audio's sub-bass experts, and is ready to serve as the centerpoint of your ultimate audio system.


The Hard Data: Contains one 13TW5v2-2 subwoofer in a down-firing, sealed enclosure. 600 watt power handling. Wired for 2 ohm mono. Installs in the bottom of the spare tire well; spare tire mounts to the Stealthbox®. The center of the trunk floor is raised slightly and will sit flush with the sides and the front of the trunk compartment after installation.