OH MY, part 2 of my first problem [Solved!]

F

Flexthis2011EB

New member
Oh my, ok. So while digging around looking at the rear soaking turbo I noticed a new problem. No matter what, cold, hot, sitting over night, the second I start my car my fans kick on. And on top of that, my car wont heat up. Obviously I thought the fans on were keeping it from warming up my car so I unplugged them and my cars temp still wont budge. It's stuck on cold. I monitored the ect through scanner and it read no higher than 138 degrees and when I drive it drops to like 105 degrees. Like ????? I changed the t stat twice both with oreilly brands. Is oreilly brands the problem? I pulled the ect/cht sensor and measured resistance as I dipped it in boiling water. Resistance did drop, rather fast so maybe its faulty or out of spec? And I'm also wondering if the non warming up and fans running constantly are 2 separate probs or one in the same. I checked the fuses (no relays for fans) and all is good. I'm really lost. Is the fan control module faulty? Can that be tested? Someone please help!!!!!!!! I have a new ect temp sensor coming tomorrow to see if that helps.
 
Any codes set in the PCM?  That really would make it simpler!  At the end, it may be a faulty PCM if nothing else resolves.
 
SHOdded said:
Any codes set in the PCM?  That really would make it simpler!  At the end, it may be a faulty PCM if nothing else resolves.
Click to expand...

P0135
P0053
Both are 02 sensor codes. And I highly highly doubt its a faulty pcm as I just had a brand new one put in less than 3 months ago for an unrelated issue. Now I'm reading about an ac pressure switch being inline with the cooling circuit. This true? Anyone know where it's located because I'm not seeing one.and thank you very much for that document! I will go out and do some testing.
 
Hmm are those sensors/wiring free/clear of oil?  Could be contamination setting the codes for the O2s.  Do you have your climate control coming on automatically every time you start the engine?

I think this is the switch you are thinking of
16 BT4Z-19D594-A Pressure Switch
FLEX
$53.44 $30.73

2f65e8ba9f4501ab09946e3afc61a4ab.png
https://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/auto-parts/2011/ford/flex/titanium-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/switches-and-sensors-scat
 
Actually no. It was caked in crap. I treid cleaning the best I could. I even pulled it out and looked at it, looks pretty burnt up. I'll get a new one, it's just there like $150 a piece. And no. I don't have climate control come on. I'm really hoping it's just a ect sensor or something. 😪. Car wont warm and fans stuck on?? Like wtf. Hopefully these test of fan circuit will tell me something.
 
Yeah, its very odd with the fans on all the time.  Since the oil leak is at the rear turbo, the wiring is probably not affected by that.  May have to look at previous incident/repair history for clues.
 
I don't think I have that pressure sensor. I see it in your diagram but don't see it in the bay. Could it be behind the front bumper? Closer to the condenser?
 
A/C Pressure Transducer

The A/C pressure transducer monitors the compressor discharge pressure and sends a variable voltage signal representing the pressure to the PCM. The PCM will interrupt A/C compressor operation in the event that the A/C pressure transducer indicates high system discharge pressures. It is also used to sense low charge conditions. If the pressure is below a predetermined value for a given ambient temperature, the PCM will not allow the clutch to engage.

The A/C pressure transducer is located on the compressor-to-condenser discharge line near the condenser inlet fitting. It is not necessary to recover the refrigerant before removing the A/C pressure transducer.


 
After reading that, Am I right by saying that the a/c pressure switch has nothing to do with my coolant fans staying on and my car not showing it's warm on the gauge?
 
Well it could, indirectly, because if it allows the compressor to run, then the fans will run, as expected.  Are the fans running full speed or 30% or ...
 
SHOdded said:
Well it could, indirectly, because if it allows the compressor to run, then the fans will run, as expected.  Are the fans running full speed or 30% or ...
Click to expand...
Not full speed that's for sure. I'd say around 30%. So maybe I should change it to give it a shot. Its only $53. That's prob more for the fan issue and not the warming up issue correct?
 
Soooo, weirdest thing. I replaced the pressure switch and tstat I got from Ford and at first not any real changes. Coolant was slightly backing up in overflow, fans were still on. Then I drove around a bit and it got slightly warmer, I monitored temps on my scanner and it climbed to around 150. I'd say about 1/4 of the way above cold on the dash gauge. Then I parked, shut car off, turned key back to ignition, let gauges sweep, and then noticed the temp gauge stopped at the middle like normal, so I started car and it stayed right at the middle where it's supposed to be. Scanner read 203 degrees. At this point I'm sure it's a sensor issue. Just which one. I do believe ect sensor because on my first drive the ect's would drop drastically as I hit the gas and rise just as fast as I let off. I don't think it's supposed to move around that fast. Even in the boiling water test the ohms of the ect sensor was dropping rather fast and I believe it supposed to drop ohms slowly. I'll replace ect sensor tomorrow. Also, I noticed on my scanner my ambient air temp stuck at like -32 degrees for a long time then jumped to -27 degrees and stayed there. Maybe my air temp sensor is bad as well? And for the fans staying on, could my tune be doing that trying to keep my engine as cool as possible?
 
You have a tune on there?  Did not realize that, thought you were stock (from your signature).  Argh, a-s-s-u-m-e ...

Yes, if the tune has the fan behavior changed, they can come on earlier and stay on longer.  Not sure of the cutoffs though.  They should not be coming on before the TStat opening point, but your tuner can confirm details.
 
You should return to stock and confirm what problems still remain....You shouldn't tune a car that has even a single mechanical problem known...You only post when you have mechanical problems and they are frequent! I can't believe you still have it! It just seems like issue after issue I honestly have never seen anything quite like it

You should've had the car vacuum bled when you did your thermostat as that's how the ford service manual usually says to change a thermostat correctly...Others here have done it without vacuum bleeding but some luck may be involved.
 
SHOdded said:
You have a tune on there?  Did not realize that, thought you were stock (from your signature).  Argh, a-s-s-u-m-e ...

Yes, if the tune has the fan behavior changed, they can come on earlier and stay on longer.  Not sure of the cutoffs though.  They should not be coming on before the TStat opening point, but your tuner can confirm details.
Click to expand...

Yea. I'll change my quote and I'm gonna have to confirm with my tuner.
 
AJP turbo said:
You should return to stock and confirm what problems still remain....You shouldn't tune a car that has even a single mechanical problem known...You only post when you have mechanical problems and they are frequent! I can't believe you still have it! It just seems like issue after issue I honestly have never seen anything quite like it

You should've had the car vacuum bled when you did your thermostat as that's how the ford service manual usually says to change a thermostat correctly...Others here have done it without vacuum bleeding but some luck may be involved.
Click to expand...

I cant believe I still have this car too. And I didn't tune it with issues. I tuned it after I got a new engine trans and pcm (hence why I won't get rid of it). And I never knew that about getting vacuum bled while doing tstat change. I only let out enough coolant to swap it. Didn't drain the whole system or nothing but I'll look into that and do it the correct way. Do u have the procedure handy?
 
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