Oil Discussion Thread

European specs dont really translate over here.  You would not want to run a BMW oil in a Ford engine.  And considering the Europeans have more problems with their GTDI engines, I would stick with mfr recommendations, varying only by a small fraction.  60 weight oils are considered racing oils, BTW, and the GT has PFI to assist with the coking issue.

F150 experience does not necessarily translate to the SHO, so take the UOAs with a grain of salt.  I am all for more conservative oil change intervals rather than changes in oil weights.
 
So what are the UOAS looking like for the transverse 3.5 EcoBoost? Do we have fuel dilution issues? I wouldn't think there'd be a difference in fuel dilution between the transverse 3.5s and the F150s

I'm not sure why the MPFI on the GT would have an effect on the oil weight. I'm just thinking it might be worth trying a xW40 or xW50 on our engines if there is a fuel dilution issue. Remember when the mod V8s in the US were specified to use 5W20 while they used synthetic xW40 or xW50 overseas, same hardware
 
Our oil recommendations are often heavily influenced by the need to appease EPA ratings.  Our Honda Fit calls for 5w30 outside of the US and 5w20 inside the US despite it being manufactured in the same plant in Japan and shipped globally.  The people that track their Fits or run them hard (I know that sounds funny) run 5w30.

In reality, I think SHOdded's advice above is the most important.  Use quality oil and change it regularly.  As long as the motor stays wet in all critical areas and the oil isn't badly degraded, there is not likely to be an oil issue.
 
There are a couple (not many) UOAs floating around for the transverse apps. 
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4472.0.html

Too small a sample to be sure, to produce a definitive opinion.  Now if you look at catchcan contents, you can see fuel vapors are definitely part of the mix there, and they are either ending up in the combustion chamber or as part of the carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves.  But the (few) UOAs we have say that the oil in the crankcase/engine is not much affected at all.

I would however expect there to be more of an "issue" when the engine is new/being broken in as the rings are seating.  A cautious move would be to halve the OCI for that initial change.
 
The F150 UOA sample size is much greater and they seem to have fuel dilution issues on engines that are already broken in (greater than 30k miles on the engines).
 
Like I said, there ARE some differences between the platforms.  Could be due to manufacturing, could be due to what the user community subjects their vehicles to.  IDK.  But there is currently no evidence that fuel dilution is an issue on the transverse.  I have always encouraged UOAs to establish a baseline, it is up to the individual to decide whether it's worth the effort & expense.
 
When do you know how bad you have oil dilution changed my oil at 4000 when I checked the level I smelled gas and the oil was dark on the dipstick.

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Gjkrisa said:
When do you know how bad you have oil dilution changed my oil at 4000 when I checked the level I smelled gas and the oil was dark on the dipstick.

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I guess if it makes the viscosity go down as in turning a 10w to a 5w then I should see rise in my oil pressure during idle and cruse normal temps?


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So I'm reading the pasmag issue to display till 12/31/16 think it's November's issue first time I've picked up pasmag in awial.
And as I'm reading about oil guy says there's is different and spend because it has a polarity so I look up magnetic oil only thing I found was Castro magnatec.
Has anyone looked into this?http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/car-engine-oil/engine-oil-brands/castrol-magnatec-brand/magnatec-product-page.html

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Magnatec is not a true synthetic oil, and it says so right on the label (part synthetic).  The MSDS says
3. Composition/information on ingredients
Ingredient name                            CAS #              %
Base oil - highly refined                    Varies              85 - 90
Zinc alkyl dithiophosphate                68649-42-3      1 - 5

IDK where the remaining ingredients went, but the "cling" can be from anything.  Oil or additive packs.  I am not sure you can find engine oil on the market today that does NOT have additive packs.  Anyway, the basic test is film strength as far as the product is concerned, because we care, in the end, about the results, not too much about how they are achieved.  True synthetic BASE oils have naturally greater shear resistance and detergency than any BASE mineral oil, but you always want to protect the base oil because that is the last barrier between engine operation and engine destruction.  So you use additives to give the oil "strength".  If you look at two oils that test out equally in the lab based on physical performance (look up any of AMSOIL's tests), you don't know where that performance is really coming from.
 
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