P0020 error code when Check Engine Light diag is run ('12 SHO with LMS tune)

H

halo3kbb

New member
Good afternoon -

I just confirmed that I have a P0020 error code when I ran the diag on my check engine light on my 2012 Ford Taurus SHO with about 90,000 miles.  At about 40k, I had the LMS tune installed.  So 50,000 of those miles is running the Stage 3 (+ maybe?) tune from LMS.  I don't think it's relevant to the tune at all, but I mention just in case someone feels different and has experienced this as well.

I read the forum and someone with a practically brand new '14 SHO has this problem and it ended up being a loose wire in the harness that causes their problem.  I don't think I'm going to be as fortunate since this vehicle has been in service for many years, and many miles.  I've done the basic mods such as CAI, Trans cooler pack, etc... but that's the extent of the engine bay upgrades, and those were done years ago as well.

Anyway, I don't have a ton of $ to drop at the dealer to just drop it off and have them replace a bunch of parts that don't fix the problem.  Instead, I'm leaning on my fellow SHO Team members to guide me on what the best course of action would be.

P0020:  intake camshaft position actuator circuit/open  Bank 2.

Thanks everyone,

Halo3kbb
 
Here's an exploded view of the location.
53bb01ba9b760395756f09005fd3fa1e.jpg
 
ZSHO said:
Since when have you had this POO20 code? are you experiencing any kind of symptoms at all.  Z
Click to expand...

Just this morning I saw the CEL come on, and had an autoparts store around the corner tell me the error code.  The engine does run a little rough at idle, shaking the mirrors at times in the past few months, but I just blamed the extra load from the AC pump running and such.  This morning, it was nice out, but very humid.  97% as a I remember.  Anyway, that's about all the symptoms.  Otherwise, she runs like a raped ape still!
 
I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM
 
halo3kbb said:
glock-coma said:
Here's an exploded view of the location.
53bb01ba9b760395756f09005fd3fa1e.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you Glock-Coma -  but I'm not sure if I know what you're referring to here.  Is that part the actuator ?
Click to expand...
your right. I thought you were looking for the sensor. But you need the actuator. My bad.
 
ZSHO said:
I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM
Click to expand...

Good morning Z-

I don't want to make it sound like I'm not doing the very basic of maintenance on this car (ie, change oil, etc...) hahaha!  But to be more specific, no;  I have not cleaned any sensors.  Should I remove the LMS tune for now and run through the computer wipe in the video to see if that helps?
 
halo3kbb said:
ZSHO said:
I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM
Click to expand...

Good morning Z-

I don't want to make it sound like I'm not doing the very basic of maintenance on this car (ie, change oil, etc...) hahaha!  But to be more specific, no;  I have not cleaned any sensors.  Should I remove the LMS tune for now and run through the computer wipe in the video to see if that helps?
Click to expand...
Doing a PCM reset certainly wont hurt especially based on your service history and make sure to revert back to stock tune,also like mentioned earlier new plugs gapped at 0.30 must be changed frequently long with a cooler stat  for optimum performance,maybe LME will chime in on the topic,post some pics of the ride and go under introduction . Z
 
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life. 
 
Livernois Motorsports said:
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.
Click to expand...
I appreciate your insight on the topic and quite honestly its great to have an inside perspective from your own tuning co,thanks  Z  :thumb: :thumb:
 
Livernois Motorsports said:
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.
Click to expand...
Could you expound on this?

How does oil play a factor in the timing chain stretch issue?

I ask because I'm testing some extended drain interval custom oil.

If This oil performs as well at 10K as oem at 3K is there still an issue?

 
Livernois Motorsports said:
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life. 
Click to expand...

Thank you LMS - I do fall into the category of religiously changing my oil every 8-10k.  ;) 

Had I known that running the tune suggested that I should change it more often, I would have done so.  I never heard any grief from my oil changes (done at the dealer) being over worn so I assumed life was good.  Apparently, maybe not.

What would LMS charge to diag my car out to find the root cause of my problem?  I live in Canton so it's not that bad of a drive for me to have professionals who know the car inside/out to troubleshoot this for me.

Thanks,

Halo3kbb
 
I would personally change the oil as mentioned yesterday,didnt mean to sound harsh on you,and after that try clearing the codes and see how fast they return and proceed from there.BTW any kind of oil leaks inside the engine bay?. Z
 
I had this problem for 2 years (2013) since 4,000 miles. The dealer I kept taking it too had no idea what was going on and after the second solenoid they changed had to contact Ford for help and unless they was blowing smoke Ford had no idea either so after 33,000 miles of clearing it, (because it only should come back after you restart the car) I tried another dealer and it took the mechanic 15 minutes to locate the problem. The wiring runs under the radiator and underneath the battery box where he mentioned the wire was smashed. I have the extended warranty so I can't tell you how much but it didn't take him a full hour. It's definitely not the tune.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
Livernois Motorsports said:
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.
Click to expand...
Could you expound on this?

How does oil play a factor in the timing chain stretch issue?

I ask because I'm testing some extended drain interval custom oil.

If This oil performs as well at 10K as oem at 3K is there still an issue?
Click to expand...
I'm betting it's fuel dilution...ecoboost struggles

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 
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