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Pennzoil ultra platinum
- Thread starter ZSHO
- Start date
I'm on tapatalk most of the time...so I miss out on people's sigs.ajpturbo said:LOL...you see my sig right!...well the only thing I don't have is amsoil brake fluid...but I don't really have the energy to do that and I don't road race so I guess I'll be alright..maybe one day
Rich
Livernois Motorsports
New member
Over the years and speaking with reps from many different companies I have learned that consistency is key. We recently had a meeting and short informative presentation with the guys from Joe Gibbs oil. Much of the meeting involved explanations of the different types of chemical / detergent packs that the major oil brands purchase. Most all of the companies oil is nearly identical other than these chemical pack blends that they add to the to make it their own. Your engine will adapt overtime to the type of oil you are using and the viscosity as well.
So if you run say XYZ brand 5w20 synthetic blend in your engine from day one it has acclimated to this. Some people will then start experimenting with different brands / blends, viscosity changes, etc due to sale prices or recommendations from others. Some engines can actually start to consume oil suddenly that never had the issue prior or start to smoke more especially on turbo applications that can be extremely sensitive by nature. After using oil in an engine for a while, carbon builds up that helps seal the piston rings against the cylinder wall. When you change oils, the new oil might use a stronger/different detergent package. What one oil’s detergent package might allow to build up, another detergent sees as dirt and cleans it up disrupting the rings from sealing completely in the process.
So long story short even the rep from Joe Gibbs recommended to find a good oil brand after break in and stick with it. This will ensure the best outcome possible when it comes to longevity of your engine.
So if you run say XYZ brand 5w20 synthetic blend in your engine from day one it has acclimated to this. Some people will then start experimenting with different brands / blends, viscosity changes, etc due to sale prices or recommendations from others. Some engines can actually start to consume oil suddenly that never had the issue prior or start to smoke more especially on turbo applications that can be extremely sensitive by nature. After using oil in an engine for a while, carbon builds up that helps seal the piston rings against the cylinder wall. When you change oils, the new oil might use a stronger/different detergent package. What one oil’s detergent package might allow to build up, another detergent sees as dirt and cleans it up disrupting the rings from sealing completely in the process.
So long story short even the rep from Joe Gibbs recommended to find a good oil brand after break in and stick with it. This will ensure the best outcome possible when it comes to longevity of your engine.
SHOnUup said:BTW, I agree with most of what you say...just not on how some of it comes out. But I imagine we could sit back and have a couple cold ones no problem discussing the same stuff...if I could keep up with your knowledge that is.
Rich
Exactly.....One thing the forums aren't good for is capturing personality and tone....I haven't met many people that are into cars that I can't enjoy a cold one or two or 12 with .....Anytime pal, I'd enjoy it...
Eh I'm not that smart, I'd love to pick the brains of some of the real tuners out there that do it for a living....But I have some good to offer now and gain.
I still supect your tune is a bit hot and your car may be a bit of a freak because your time is awesome and I'll admit I'm jealous. And once I get a couple things figured out your car is the reason I think lower 12's is possible without meth....And I think you have a good driver mod. And you may just of had a hell of a pass
Can you data log in a CSV format? I'd love to look at some of your logs...I know you have LMS so I don't know how it can be done.
ajpturbo said:SHOnUup said:BTW, I agree with most of what you say...just not on how some of it comes out. But I imagine we could sit back and have a couple cold ones no problem discussing the same stuff...if I could keep up with your knowledge that is.
Rich
Exactly.....One thing the forums aren't good for is capturing personality and tone....I haven't met many people that are into cars that I can't enjoy a cold one or two or 12 with .....Anytime pal, I'd enjoy it...
Eh I'm not that smart, I'd love to pick the brains of some of the real tuners out there that do it for a living....But I have some good to offer now and gain.
I still supect your tune is a bit hot and your car may be a bit of a freak because your time is awesome and I'll admit I'm jealous. And once I get a couple things figured out your car is the reason I think lower 12's is possible without meth....And I think you have a good driver mod. And you may just of had a hell of a pass
Can you data log in a CSV format? I'd love to look at some of your logs...I know you have LMS so I don't know how it can be done.
I can through Torque...not very accurate at a tenth interval. But it can be sent in CSV format via email no problem from Torque.
Rich
I switched over to Amsoil at 44k...best thing I've done as a maintenance item yet I feel.markssho said:Good info. I was thinking of going full synthetic at the next oil change at the Ford dealer.
Maybe, since I have 59k on the SHO, I should just stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend I've always used?
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Any more questions feel free to PM me.
Rich
My buddy with a Hellcat is making the switch to Amsoil next change. I'm a little anxious to hear his thoughts.curry67 said:Upgrade to the full synthetic. Pennzoil ultra platinum is a fantastic oil and comes in the hellcat engine from the factory. Amsoil has a great rep in the racing community. Either would be a great choice.
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Rich
If you make the switch to Amsoil, you'll be quite surprised on how much quieter it is...and it lasts at least 4k (my personal experience). If I wasn't so OCD about changing it after ventures to the track or dragway I'd have a bigger interval to attest to. But at 4k it came out in a light brown manner compared to the black look Mobil 1 leaves the motor in.curry67 said:Not to impressed with the motorcraft full sythetic. Noticeably louder idle and when at wot compared to pennzoil Plat but I still haven't matched how smooth the engine is initially after a Mobil 1 change then it went away after 1k miles
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Rich
Livernois Motorsports
New member
markssho said:Good info. I was thinking of going full synthetic at the next oil change at the Ford dealer.
Maybe, since I have 59k on the SHO, I should just stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend I've always used?
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We personally run full synthetic in most all builds here. We use Royal Purple, Brad Penn, and Joe Gibbs depending on the vehicle and customer's preference. Ams Oil makes a great product as well as Rich mentioned as well. I know most all guys I have known to make the switch to Ams Oil have become big advocates and stuck with it which is a good sign.
The biggest thing to be honest is sticking with synthetic if you make the switch. People that jump back and fourth end up with confused engine seal properties which promote oil consumption. The only time I have honestly been against switching to full synthetic were high mileage vehicles. I have witnessed a friend of mine years back that switched to full synthetic in a Ford 4.0 L after he purchased the vehicle. It burned through 3-4 quarts and developed a smoking issue as well in about a month from the service.
Are you thinking that it would be advisable to go to a 10/W/30 Mobil 1 from the 5/W/20?SHOdded said:Not only that, but the viscosity index should hold up as compared to oem spec for 5w30. For example, full synthetic mobil 1 is usually a thinner-behaving oil than say, Motorcraft syn blend. That can be too thin to fill the gap between contact surfaces.
Not at all. You could go to 5W30 from 5W20, but going to 10W is definitely not a good idea. You could go 0W30 if you like.
My point was that before deciding on an appropriate oil, you should compare the PDS (product data sheets) and choose a product with superior specifications (e.g., flow characteristics) to OE. Higher flash points and lower pour points, for example. BTW, a higher viscosity index means a higher resistance to viscosity change/shearing under standardized conditions. That is a good thing. BUT we don't want to significantly deviate from the viscosity itself as specified by OE.
My point was that before deciding on an appropriate oil, you should compare the PDS (product data sheets) and choose a product with superior specifications (e.g., flow characteristics) to OE. Higher flash points and lower pour points, for example. BTW, a higher viscosity index means a higher resistance to viscosity change/shearing under standardized conditions. That is a good thing. BUT we don't want to significantly deviate from the viscosity itself as specified by OE.
Ahh....I see what you are saying!SHOdded said:Not at all. You could go to 5W30 from 5W20, but going to 10W is definitely not a good idea. You could go 0W30 if you like.
My point was that before deciding on an appropriate oil, you should compare the PDS (product data sheets) and choose a product with superior specifications (e.g., flow characteristics) to OE. Higher flash points and lower pour points, for example. BTW, a higher viscosity index means a higher resistance to viscosity change/shearing under standardized conditions. That is a good thing. BUT we don't want to significantly deviate from the viscosity itself as specified by OE.
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