Radar rear view mirror Tap!

ZSHO

New member
Here's a very Brief "How to" as promised a while ago!

I purchased the Radar Mount RJ11 Mirror Wire Radar Detector Hardwire Power Cord from www.amazon.com .

Remove the black plastic piece gently against the windshield using a small flat head screw driver..
The RJ11- Tab adapters unfortunately were to big and did NOT use them and simply spliced into the according wires as shown and pictured below...

I then spliced into the TOP BLACK WIRE which is your GROUND To BLACK on RG11 CORD


The 2nd YELLOW/BROWN WIRE will be your POWER TO RED ON RJ11 CORD as shown on the below Pic.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask.  Z  :)

Here's my previous "How TO" Hard-wire your Radar detector.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6964.0.html


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https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Hardwire-3005201U/dp/B078939GZ2/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=01GCW2DW9F03QN6M9PK8
 
Thanks for the guide, I just wired up my dashcam to the rearview mirror power leads. Mine had different colors, but the same positions on the header were the correct wires.

Very satisfying quick little DIY, and now I've got the stealthiest dashcam possible unless I were able to fit one into the shroud itself.

I used this to convert from battery voltage to 5V for the mini-USB daschcam cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FJVRCT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Sorry for the delayed update just been busy with lifes daily obstacles and all!
Here are a few PICS for reference and everything is working as designed.  :)
I ended up using some T-Tap's and added a Fuse protector for Good measures. Z

FYI- The Yellow/Brown wire with the Fuse is your POWER wire and the BLACK is your GROUND

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Macgyver said:
Obviously this would work for a Dash Cam too ?

12volt switched on with the ignition.
If you do switched than you lose auto on while parked if its hit.

This becomes tricky in the SHO as all 3 SHOs in our family had/have defective battery management so running the battery down is a distinct possibility.

One way around this would be to run a USB brick somewhere charging to USB 24/7 (when car is on) then run the cam off that. This scheme might require an overnight charge of the brick once in a while. My cam in the CMAX is currently running directly off the OEM USB. Not sure if other brands will work like that.



Edited for further thoughts
 
ZSHO said:

Yeah I have one of those kits already. I was just thinking if you could wire it up there it might be easier.
 
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