Rough idle, shaking when in d and taking foot off brake.

Do you guys happen to have the expected ohms of the coil packs and how to accurately test them? The turbo whine is sort of choppy so I am really leaning towards an ignition issue.
 
The less resistance the better.  <1 ohm (primary) would be perfect in general.  Make sure the voltage at the connector from the PCM is also strong.  There are COP test tools you can buy also.  I cannot find secondary resistance specs, I guess you could just compare between all of them?

Here is a quick rundown on COPs in general:
! No longer available

Steps JB10 and JB11 spec out the acceptable secondary resistance:  5-6 KOhms with harness connector disconnected, 27.7047.7 KOhms with harness connector connected.

How the tests were on a Gen 3 SHO:
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/CoilOnPlugTest.htm

Testing 3 wire COPs:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/cop-ignition-coil-tests-1
 
Man...v8sho.com. It's been awhile since I've seen that site. I used to go on there religiously when I had my 97 SHO. Changing the rear bank coils on that motor was a pita. You had to remove the upper intake manifold. I changed mine twice in the 107K I had it.
Luckily we have if a LITTLE easier now. 
 
Couldn't do much troubleshooting last night. I will have a new coil pack tonight so hopefully my problems will be resolved. I did go for a drive, whomped it a bit and it runs good as ever. Peaked 16psi of boost. Afr's look in order. chirps the tires 1st and 2nd gear. Idle and under 3k rps is wonky.
 
Maybe my engine was weak but I bet the cold weather KR bug livernoise fixed in v10 sped up the failure when I was having the issue while running v8.
 
I'm pretty sure my issue was the PPE pipes. I had a rough vibration with foot on brake after shifting to reverse. End of the day my front pipe (the longer one) is butted up against the rear Trans mount. There's pics and a convo in another thread. But I think that's the culprit for the shaking I felt. I noticed u have PPE pipes in ur sig.. perhaps at least worth a look
 
Hey guys,
Took it into the dealer. Cylinder #2 piston ring cracked + scoring on the cylinder wall. Here is the kicker, they want $960 for motor teardown if Ford denies the warranty claim. Then I have to also tow the car out and they hand me a box of parts and a motor. What would you guys do?
 
I dont think Ford will deny the warranty claim, but FoMoCoSHO may have better insight.  Known incidences of block cracking and throwing a rod and still covered.  Did you return car to stock tune wise before taking to dealer?
 
I would be very surprised if you run into any trouble. 

My limited understanding is that they can still tell with a deep scan of the ECU, but that isn't likely to happen without something major telling them to research further.
 
Small update, they finally started the teardown. Arsehats were giving me crap that I had a PP transmission cooler installed. The battle is in full force.
 
Yeah, giving you crap for what should've come with the car in the first place, nice!  Where's the Eye of Thunderra when you need it!
 
Back
Top